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Old 08-24-2018, 12:13 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by theproffesor
Have you tried setting the reverse to 100%. Even though it’s not being used and you are only using forward/brake mode, I know it helps on the HW justock give a stronger brake feel. I set reverse to 100% on every speedo I use just to make sure. Then adjust the other brake settings as needed.
Interesting. The reverse setting shouldn't affect the brakes, because the brakes operate by just disconnecting the battery and short-circuiting the motor to itself. The braking strength is regulated the same way the acceleration strength is, by PWM-ing the motor connections thousands of times per second.
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Old 08-24-2018, 12:28 AM
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As already mentioned try reducing the timing slightly, I have found the more timing on the motor the weaker the brakes are, adjusting down by even 2/3 degrees can make a big difference
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Old 08-24-2018, 01:11 AM
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Thanks for all you answers. So according to you ESC brand has nothing to do with brake strength.
I've a national race this week-end... I won't be able to try a tekin or LRP esc... But I will test all the other tips.

I'll keep you up to date

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Old 08-25-2018, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by M@t
Hi,

I raced TC mod class for many years, and I decided to switch to stock class (13.5).

I really love it , but I find that brake feeling is really an issue.
I race R1 wurks V16 motor with a 1650+ rotor, and a gear ratio between 4.2 and 4.5 (huge tracks)

I tried different speedo : Orca B32, SkyRC TS160, R1Wuks Digital2, HW XR10
I played with settings : initial brake, brake frq, brake strengh, etc... but I always find that the brake feeling is not good.... sometimes too weak, sometimes not linear...

So experienced drivers... what are you advices?
Which speedo is the best for TC stock racing ? which firmware version?
Does the condensator have any influence?

Thx for your help
I've tested many spedoo racing in STOCK 13.5 BLINKY class, but only one have a real brake... LRP FlowX with Stock FW!

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Old 08-25-2018, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer
Interesting. The reverse setting shouldn't affect the brakes, because the brakes operate by just disconnecting the battery and short-circuiting the motor to itself. The braking strength is regulated the same way the acceleration strength is, by PWM-ing the motor connections thousands of times per second.

Completely agree that it shouldn’t, but for some reason it does (at least on the older justock ESC’s) It’s definitely something I wouldn’t have looked at without some else pointing it out to me a while back. It’s one of those odd things that couldn’t hurt to test.
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Old 08-26-2018, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by M@t
Thanks for all you answers. So according to you ESC brand has nothing to do with brake strength.
I think ESC brand has a lot to do with brake strength. Suprised the XR10 did not work for you, those supposedly have one of the strongest brakes.

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Old 08-26-2018, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by theproffesor



Completely agree that it shouldn’t, but for some reason it does (at least on the older justock ESC’s) It’s definitely something I wouldn’t have looked at without some else pointing it out to me a while back. It’s one of those odd things that couldn’t hurt to test.
I wonder if they bodged-up the firmware so the maximum PWM setting for reverse also affects the maximum PWM setting for braking -- like, if you have reverse set to 75% and braking set to 75%, braking is actually limited to 75% * 75% = 56%.
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Old 08-26-2018, 09:59 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rccartips
I think ESC brand has a lot to do with brake strength. Suprised the XR10 did not work for you, those supposedly have one of the strongest brakes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6rf67OObYY

Which version is the Best for stock? The justsock or the pro ?
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Old 08-26-2018, 10:06 AM
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If you're running in a blinky class, then it doesn't matter whether you buy an ESC that has lots of adjustments, so the cheaper one would seem to be better. However, the power capacity and the efficiency of the MOSFET transistors are both important, so double-check those specs before buying.
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Old 08-26-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer
If you're running in a blinky class, then it doesn't matter whether you buy an ESC that has lots of adjustments, so the cheaper one would seem to be better. However, the power capacity and the efficiency of the MOSFET transistors are both important, so double-check those specs before buying.
Yes power capacitors and mosfet transistors are important, but so is drive frequency, punch control and a decent esc fan to keep everything cool.....
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Old 08-26-2018, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer
If you're running in a blinky class, then it doesn't matter whether you buy an ESC that has lots of adjustments, so the cheaper one would seem to be better.
Spoken by someone that hardly races.

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Old 08-26-2018, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
Yes power capacitors and mosfet transistors are important, but so is drive frequency, punch control and a decent esc fan to keep everything cool.....
I don't know anyone who runs an ESC fan for blinky. It's just unnecessary weight.
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Old 08-26-2018, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
I don't know anyone who runs an ESC fan for blinky. It's just unnecessary weight.
I usually run a fan on all my esc's no matter what motor I run and I also double the esc capacitor if it can fit the car.....
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Old 08-27-2018, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
I usually run a fan on all my esc's no matter what motor I run and I also double the esc capacitor if it can fit the car.....
If you removed the muffler bearings from your tc4, you would have a lot of room.
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