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Hi,

I raced TC mod class for many years, and I decided to switch to stock class (13.5).

I really love it , but I find that brake feeling is really an issue.
I race R1 wurks V16 motor with a 1650+ rotor, and a gear ratio between 4.2 and 4.5 (huge tracks)

I tried different speedo : Orca B32, SkyRC TS160, R1Wuks Digital2, HW XR10
I played with settings : initial brake, brake frq, brake strengh, etc... but I always find that the brake feeling is not good.... sometimes too weak, sometimes not linear...

So experienced drivers... what are you advices?
Which speedo is the best for TC stock racing ? which firmware version?
Does the condensator have any influence?

Thx for your help

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

i think it has more to do with your motor and gearing combo than esc since you have ran some of the best escs on the market
i have no break issues with the HW xr10 pro

KE4PJO

I'll have to agree with Justin, most of the braking issues are related to motor, motor timing and FDR. All the ESC's you've mentioned should have good brakes, perhaps just not the "feel" you're looking for.

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So I should try to reduce timing ? from 50° to 40° or 30° ?

I've tried different FDR up to 5.5... But I really start to miss top speed

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

i know our13.5 handout class we run a 5.5fdr @ 30deg (indoors on carpet) and it will lock them down at any speed most of us at our track have max endpoints reduced to keep them from locking up .
given its still not a abrupt as mod brakes but very close
so it could be your timing selection affecting the brakes the most . tho i wouldnt get too radical with timing changes cause it might hurt your lap times more then it helps your brakes

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

If you race blinky, Tekin RS Black edition is awesome, especially with the Gen3 SpecR motor.

If you race boosted, HW XR10 is definitely the best. With a 13.5T, you should go with Hybrid brake mode and 4KHz for the brake PWM

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I race Blinky

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

"Brake", not "break". Just sayin'.

Top speed isn't everything. If your brakes are more reliable and you're more comfortable operating them, you can push further into corners before starting to brake, and that makes up a lot for a lower top speed on straightaways.

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Just made the correction

Marcos.J

iTrader: (234)

yes the Tekin has the lowest resistance so far !!

theproffesor

iTrader: (65)

fat500

iTrader: (41)

I have noticed that anything 21.5 or above the brakes seem to fade. I ran 17.5 with the hb wing v3 stock and had brakes galore...went to 21.5 and said wtf happened to my brakes....seems to me higher winds less feel in the brakes.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (234)

tekin is .000096ohm*

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I had the same problem with my novak 17.5t blinky tc, but it went away when I switched the motor to the fantom FR-1 v1... I ended up with lockdown brakes that I had smooth out to get the corner speed. Rotor strength alone won't fix the problem. Stator inductance also needs to be high: that's where the fantom kawasaki steel comes into play...
What kind of steel does the V16 use ??? Recycled steel....lol....Get a fantom v3 or forget it !!!

sosidge

I used to have big problems with the brakes on the older Hobbywing ESC (Xtreme stock) . Switching to the LRP Flow solved it, the brakes on that are superb, really smooth and positive.

Not sure how much the newer Hobbywing has changed.