dmatter

iTrader: (2)

I want to see this Tweak Mod Before I buy a Car With Severe Tweak Issues!

coastaltony

iTrader: (13)

There are two pictures of Hara's car, with the mod on page 319

nomaak

no set-up huh? oh well...thanks.

Tres

iTrader: (14)

Sorry, you have what I have....

nomaak

i'd understand it if it had shock and camber link locations. quite confusing.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

the car does not have "severe tweak issues"....it's just a few posts.


besides.....any car hit hard enough will be out of whack :P

tony2

iTrader: (1)

Tweak, Tweak, Tweak, this tweak problem has given me a major headache! Im using the standard screws, so the screws arnt the problem.
I can twist the chassis and hear it move but it will stay tweaked, i loosen all the screws at the rear of the top deak and the tweak will go out of it. Even if i leave the screws where hara's chassis has been modified, it makes no difference, so if i make that mod i doubt if it will make a difference.
any more help????
Ohh well i might have to wait until the designer of the car comes to australia in two weeks for our nats.

FW-05RR

I went to Schumacher USA website and I can't find anything on this new car could you maybe help me out and point me in the right direction JDM

Proteus

For those of you that have switched to the smaller bearings (5 x 8 x 2.5) have you noticed excessive wear. I've had two rear bearings fail. At first I thought that my car had a severe tweak issue when cornering. When I came back to the pits I checked the chassis and everything was fine. I know that the smaller bearings won't take as much of an abuse as the larger ones so that's why I kept the stock bearings in the front and only changed the rear bearings. I only had the bearings in the car for two weeks. I can understand taping boards might cause it to weaken prematurely, however when I do TAP the boards....it's only the front. Luckily the bearings gave out during qualifying so I was able to replace it before the mains.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

try loosening the top deck and the screws that hold the diff cases down...then re-tighten them.

also check to see if your shocks are all the same length.

maybe you bent a pivot block?

JohnB

iTrader: (1)

If I could add a little that. Before you tighten the screws have the chassis on a VERY flat surface with the wheels off. Push down or tap different points around the chassis and make sure it's flat. Then hold it down and tighten the screws like you would tighten lug nuts on a tire, in a pattern. Keep checking the chassis as you tighten. Maybe there is a screw hole crooked or bent screw pulling everything out of whack. HPI parts are some of the best molding I've seen, but still they are molded parts and not 100% perfect, sometimes a screw can be off just a little.

take care
john

brians11

iTrader: (40)

I'd call Schumacher directly
813 889 9691

someone there should be able to help ya out...

Erik Shauver

[RANT]
Tweak

First of all, how is this "tweak" being measured?
-MIP Tweak Station?
-X-Acto down the center + Lift method?
-4 corner scales?
-Track feel?
-"eyeball" method?

Second, how often do you maintain your car?
-Did you strip down the car and check that the arms move freely (especially after crashes, aluminum can bend easily i.e. pivot blocks)?
-Have you cleaned or inspected your bearings recently?
-Have you set your droop screws (With a gauge? Included or otherwise)?
-Are the gearbox screw holes loose (in the slightest, and there are 18 of them x 2) or stripped?
-Have you checked your steering for freeness of movement?
-Have you checked the entire steering assembly for freeness of movement?
-Are you using setup tools (camber gauges, ride height gauges, calipers, toe gauges, etc)?
-Do any parts show signs of wear or are visibly worn out?

Original Build-up…
-Did you CA the edges of ALL graphite parts (especially the shock tower edges where they meet the gearbox)?
-Have you balanced your car from left to right with additional weight? (Either a string method or Hudy balancing tools in the existing smaller holes on the chassis bottom side)
-Did you pinch all ball cups until you obtain free movement (Upper links? Steering links? Sway Bar Links?).
-Are your shocks built to the same length?
-Have you set your endpoints of steering for equal throw in both directions?
-Are the steering tie rods set to even lengths? With Calipers? With the “eyeball” method?
-Do you have a method to setting up your car (including the use of setup tools)?
-Did you tap the holes in the graphite parts? Did you tap the holes with screws? Were the screws going in at an off angle (not parallel to the axis of the hole)? Do you tighten the screws with “brute” force, or with finesse?

If you are experiencing a different left to right feel on the track, a half turn or so of droop in the rear can make all of the difference. If your car is on a 4 corner scale setup, you can see that very small turns on the preload collars make a very big difference to the corner weights. If your car is on a MIP type tweak station, for crying out loud adjust the pre-load collars until it evens out (There is no need for them to be equally set all the way around, overall balance is the key).

Tweak is an over used word in R/C…
Definition:
3 : to make small adjustments in or to <tweak the controls>; especially : FINE-TUNE

By definition it points to the end user… You need to find your root problem. If your setup gauges show that something is off, adjust until it is right (Fine Tune the droop, the pre-load collars, the weight distribution, link lengths, etc). If your car feels imbalanced, adjust until it feels balanced, regardless of symmetry (Fine Tune). If your car requires maintenance, put in the wrench time. Simply twisting the chassis in your hands does no good.

If you want to consider the intransitive sense, meaning something more like to pull; then the chassis is bending or straining abnormally. This is most often caused by stripped screw holes or screws that are overly tightened. Both of these can allow more than normal chassis plate movement or create binding points on areas that are supposed to float or move.
[/RANT]

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Severe is kinda strong word....my car only have a little FRONT tweaking that I cannot resolve unless upgraded to 2.5 or 3mm, and that is very much sure is USER ERROR (yes, me...)

I am using stock screws, and I am screwing them in cris cross pattern.....so they are not the issue about my front tweaking, and I still think it is the top and bottom chassis not thick enough.

coastaltony

iTrader: (13)

Erik, REVEREND!
Any idea when HPI in the USA will have a spool and 2mm chassis available?