mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

hi guys
i need more pickup with my mrx4

its only when i use my os vzr that the bottom end sux
would trying a 1 tooth smaller 1st gear pinion and a 1 tooth bigger spur make a difference?>

i have the lcutch nut adjusted to 1.4mm and the gap is 0.5mm
standard grey clutch shoe, the top end is good its just slow coming out of a turn. the engine is runnin strong and tuned pretty good.

thanks

AKSHUN

yeah, try the smaller pinion, the 16 tooth one, 49 spur, then try going with the 16/50 combo.
Also, get yourself the "ultra hard spring " from mugen, .5 gap, 1.2 clutch spring nut setting.

cdelong

iTrader: (12)

do you have the lightweight shoes?...... the ones with the holes in them? you should not need 1.4mm with a "good" spring. maybe your spring is at life's end. grey shoe is OK, but a lot of people like the yellow shoe.

like above, get a new spring... super hard at 1.2mm works for me, but i'm going to start trying the new MSR springs. I run 16/50 nearly everywhere unless the traction won't handle it, then I drop to a 16/49.

what's your endplay without the bearing or shims behind the clutchbell? what is it with the inner bearing and shims installed? you should shoot for 0.5mm without anything behind the bell, then add the bearing and shims till the bell does not rub the clutch shoe. it should then measure 0.5mm or slightly less on the endplay.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

thanks for your help
ill get this ready for this sunday

also another thing..ive been going through clutch shoes like one a race day
is this normal?
the shoe wears out so much that the pins start to show on the flywheel

AKSHUN

its probably cause you were running 1.4 on the clutch nut, try 1.1 or 1.2 and it should be fine providing the gap is about .5.
just like corey said, take the internal shims out and the bearing , then put your bell back on with the screw and thrust bearing, shims etc...
you should be at around .5.
see, with a 1.4 spring nut compression, your motor was revving too high before it engaged that is why your shoe is wearing too fast.
good luck.

cdelong

iTrader: (12)

you should be able to get at least 3 or 4 good race days on a grey or yellow shoe. One to two days on a black.

1.4mm with a 0.5mm gap will turn grey, yellow and red shoes to dust. The black shoes just kinda wear away..... should I say melt away. You could get away with 1.4mm if your endplay was 0.2- 0.3mm, but not 0.5mm. The engine just does not have enough torque to slam those flyweights out 0.5mm and hold them against the spring pressure of a 1.4mm setting.

If your bell has been damaged by the pins (from the clutch wearing) you will need to replace that too. The pins always survive better than the clutchbell

Start with 1.0mm on the nut with a 0.4- 0.5mm gap and work from there- use the stock kit spring and grey shoe. Learn from that set-up and then progress from there to different springs, endplay and shoes Work the gearing for now for your bottom end.... 16/50 will wake it up- even 16/49 or 17/50.

What pipe do you have? If you have a 2018, 2031 or similiar top end pipe that will kill you on the bottom as well with that engine. The OS needs a long low end pipe to work well. I think the OS 2050 was made for that engine?? Not sure.

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (15)

I guess that it only applies to the the people playing. Let me get a few weeks under my belt and then we will see. I just hope Vincent is not in.

Pooh2

It's 4 everybody. Vince can get in. We do it all in fun and most of the time it pays 4 dinner at the end of the race day.

bullie1

HI everyone dont know if you can help me but i got a MRX2 from a dear friend with a ton load of spares so i can try out 1/8 racing to see if i like it and all, but he didnt have the manual for the car and i would like to strip down the car and rebuild it but not familiar with it at all so i was wonder were i could find a manual on line. I have tried the mugen site but no luck and even emailed them but havent got an answer yet.
Thanks in advance

Pooh2

What's good Bullie1? I had the car and wouldn't mind helping u gett he car ready 4 racing. I don't have any parts or the manual, but give me a PM with what ever help u may need and I'll try and get u running.

Lil Paul

Hey Pooh, I am good, and got back ok surprisingly with the messed up weather NY had. Thanks for all your help. I now can say, I think I got a handle on a good clutch setup. 301 is going to be off da hook. I am trying to go down there at least once or twice b4 the big race on April 28-29.

I rebuilt my car, and I am going to try the cut arms. I am also going to try to be a lil more aggressive with the throttle. I tend to be conservative which is good for finishing races, but I need to start placing higher in the overall standings. i usually bring home hardware from the big races cause I finish, but this year i am looking at A and B mains. If I can get hardware out of the A/B then that is the cherry on top.

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (15)

Yea, we will be buying Vince dinner each week.

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

Are you guys using the rear swaybar at all on high bite tracks? Was at rev's this weekend and my car was traction rolling like crazy, I loosened up the sway and it helped some.Should I run without it?

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

42's

Pooh2

Paul, anytime. I'm glad I was able 2 help. Clutch is VERY important! 301 will b the jumpoff this year! I'm looking 4ward 2 a good season racing with everyone this year.