Ta04r...
12-08-2002, 07:53 PM
#932
KINGZJ,
wow... that's a very BLUE 04R.... just wondering... how much did you spend to get it so blue?
wow... that's a very BLUE 04R.... just wondering... how much did you spend to get it so blue?
12-08-2002, 07:54 PM
#933
also, where did you get that atenna mount??? that's pretty cool~
12-08-2002, 09:21 PM
#936
sengming,
Unless you have an Indoor circuit in your house or an appropriately large running area try running it outdoors where you normally use the car and see how it goes. They are usually pretty good to drive with the stock set up as per the Instructions. Let us know how you go.
Steevo
Unless you have an Indoor circuit in your house or an appropriately large running area try running it outdoors where you normally use the car and see how it goes. They are usually pretty good to drive with the stock set up as per the Instructions. Let us know how you go.
Steevo
12-08-2002, 11:04 PM
#937
Tech Initiate
Hi Guys...
sorry to butt in...I've just got a small question concerning the Dampers that are included with the TA04-R kit....can you buy a rebuilt kit for them...my front shocks are not compressing straight any more
sorry to butt in...I've just got a small question concerning the Dampers that are included with the TA04-R kit....can you buy a rebuilt kit for them...my front shocks are not compressing straight any more
12-09-2002, 02:39 AM
#938
have u open them out 2 check?...
sounds like u have a bend shaft,but u can nvr b too sure...
anyway,do any of you guys have problems with the carbon fibre lower deck?...it seems that after i change away the carbon reinforced lower deck,i'm having problem with my car in trying 2 get it 2 go straight...**sigh**
or it is my servo saver again?...have tis problem once also,but a change of servo saver did the job las time...
sounds like u have a bend shaft,but u can nvr b too sure...
anyway,do any of you guys have problems with the carbon fibre lower deck?...it seems that after i change away the carbon reinforced lower deck,i'm having problem with my car in trying 2 get it 2 go straight...**sigh**
or it is my servo saver again?...have tis problem once also,but a change of servo saver did the job las time...
12-09-2002, 05:07 AM
#939
Tech Fanatic
I know whats happened, the small white washer right at the bottom of the seal is probably worn out and it will alow the shaft to move around very slightly, you can get a rebuild kit as i have seen them in japan but i am not sure what the part number is. Rick
12-09-2002, 09:25 AM
#941
Guys, a buddy and I raced on Sat and discovered that, sith side-by-sides, the batteries short out on the chassis and cause the car to be very sluggish. This is why my car was such a turd on the track. What are you guys doing to correct this?
spooky
I've only run my car on carpet with a stock motor, so I don't know how much help this will be, but here's what felt pretty good. I have only raced the car two race days, so I'm still getting it sorted out. I know there's more speed in the car. I'm getting ready for TCS, so everything is biased toward that except the tires.
Front:
Take Off CS27 with the insert that comes with the tire.
Cross zero offset rim.
Yellow spring laid all the way down. Arm ballcup in outermost hole.
60 weight Trinity shock oil, 2 hole piston.
No swaybar
1mm droop
1degree negative camber
1 degree of toe out on each side
Front one-way
Upper camber links in position described in the instruction.
5mm ride height (track requirement)
Rear:
Take Off CS27 with the insert that comes with the tire.
Cross zero offset rim.
Yellow spring laid all the way down.
60 weight Trinity shock oil, 2 hole piston.
Yellow swaybar
2mm droop
2 degrees negative camber
Kit uprights (I believe this is 2 degrees toe in)
Upper camber links in position described in the instruction.
5mm ride height (track requirement)
Tamiya Ferrari 360GT body with wing in "low downforce" position.
The only hopups that I put on the car were the lightweight diff outdrives and the front one-way. I highly reccomend the lightweight outdrives. The kit ones weigh a ton on a car that is quite heavy to begin with. One thing that I noticed is that the car needs to be sprung very softly in order to generate mechanical grip compared to the Losi XXX-S. I plan to get the carbon shock towers, as I understand they have more shock positions and should eliminate the flex that the stock shock towers have. On this track, I think the car could do with a little less dampening, so you might want to start with 50 weight oil or even 40 weight if you're running on asphalt. The car does seem to be quite sensitive to setup changes. I'm still trying to get teh backend to rotate the way I want it, but it's not quite there yet. I hope that helps.
spooky
I've only run my car on carpet with a stock motor, so I don't know how much help this will be, but here's what felt pretty good. I have only raced the car two race days, so I'm still getting it sorted out. I know there's more speed in the car. I'm getting ready for TCS, so everything is biased toward that except the tires.
Front:
Take Off CS27 with the insert that comes with the tire.
Cross zero offset rim.
Yellow spring laid all the way down. Arm ballcup in outermost hole.
60 weight Trinity shock oil, 2 hole piston.
No swaybar
1mm droop
1degree negative camber
1 degree of toe out on each side
Front one-way
Upper camber links in position described in the instruction.
5mm ride height (track requirement)
Rear:
Take Off CS27 with the insert that comes with the tire.
Cross zero offset rim.
Yellow spring laid all the way down.
60 weight Trinity shock oil, 2 hole piston.
Yellow swaybar
2mm droop
2 degrees negative camber
Kit uprights (I believe this is 2 degrees toe in)
Upper camber links in position described in the instruction.
5mm ride height (track requirement)
Tamiya Ferrari 360GT body with wing in "low downforce" position.
The only hopups that I put on the car were the lightweight diff outdrives and the front one-way. I highly reccomend the lightweight outdrives. The kit ones weigh a ton on a car that is quite heavy to begin with. One thing that I noticed is that the car needs to be sprung very softly in order to generate mechanical grip compared to the Losi XXX-S. I plan to get the carbon shock towers, as I understand they have more shock positions and should eliminate the flex that the stock shock towers have. On this track, I think the car could do with a little less dampening, so you might want to start with 50 weight oil or even 40 weight if you're running on asphalt. The car does seem to be quite sensitive to setup changes. I'm still trying to get teh backend to rotate the way I want it, but it's not quite there yet. I hope that helps.
12-09-2002, 10:04 AM
#942
Dave, is your TCS race on carpet... ? I will have Les order me the outdrives. I am anxious to race @ a TCS race, I really like the attitude and atmosphere at company type gatherings. I went to the local HPI race last year, won it and went to Japan( got lucky). Very Very cool. A guy that also went to Japan, told me that the TCS races were a blast too, so I ordered the TA04r right away.
12-09-2002, 11:31 AM
#943
Sweet! Congrats on your HPI win. The TCS race is on asphalt, but I just got the car so I need to learn how to set it up. I was going to make the drive to the Tamiya track for TCS earlier in the year, but wasn't able to. I've been chatting with some guys in SoCal that regularly race at Tamiya's track and they said Tamiya is very anal about EVERYTHING being Tamiya on the car (in case you weren't aware.) The only exceptions are noted, so that means every screw, ballcup and tie-rod needs to be Tamiya. Also, all the parts that came with the car need to be on it. The only things that were pointed out to me as ok to remove are the belt tensioner and the little cf disk thing that goes between the spurgear and the screws that hold in in place. I also heard that they will be adding a new GT3 class which is similar to GT2, but requires the use of the silver can Johnson 540 motor. We recently started racing a class like this, except the TA04 is a banned chassis and we require the use of "kit tires." No belted slicks, Type A, Type B, etc. tires. It is a lot of fun. The racing is really close and exciting for the spectators to watch. You guys should give that a shot. Say hi to Les for me. 
12-09-2002, 12:18 PM
#944
I cut a piece of chassis protector stuff and put it on the chassis where the batts could short out. I has worked very well for me so far. As for setup I run mine tcs legal all the time I usually use a compound tires with yellow springs all around and 60 wt front and 40 rear I leave the droop to kit settings. So far all I have to change is if I want a one-way in or not
12-09-2002, 01:34 PM
#945
KINGZJ
I was thinking about doing that. I think that's a good solution. I was also considering putting some heat shrink tubing over the battery bars before soldering them on the batteries. Are you running 2400's or 3000's? I heard that some batteries are a little tight to begin with, so I'm concerned that they may not fit.
I was thinking about doing that. I think that's a good solution. I was also considering putting some heat shrink tubing over the battery bars before soldering them on the batteries. Are you running 2400's or 3000's? I heard that some batteries are a little tight to begin with, so I'm concerned that they may not fit.