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Old 01-14-2021, 03:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tamiya TT02 Thread
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TT02 Wiki - Post your setups, upgrades and home grown ideas here for us to read...

TT02 vs the TT-01
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/01/ta...irst-pics.html
New flat chassis layout - Easier to run LiPOs vs the cutouts in the TT-01s
Revised suspension geometry
Support for std spur gears

MODELS ----------------------------------------------------

Changes that follow are in comparison to the basic kit.
TT02 - Base Kit. Friction Dampers.
TT02D - Drift: Drift Tires, Hardened A-Parts, Oil Shocks
TT02R - Race: Rear Alu 3* Toe In Hubs, Alu Propshaft + Cups, CVA oil Dampers
TT02RR - Race+: TT02R + Adjustable Upper Arms, Oil Filled Diffs, Hardened Blue Chassis
TT02S - Type S: TRF416 arms, FRP shock towers, bearings,
TT02SR - TypeS Race: TT02S + Double cardan front drive shafts, rear lightweight universals, Rear sealed oil differential, front spool
TT02B - Buggy. Offroad: CVA Shocks, Double Wishbone long suspension

HOP UPS ----------------------------------------------------

Bearings:
#54476 Ball Bearing Set TT02: 8x 1050, 4x 1280, 4x 1150

Propshaft:
#54501 Alum Propeller Shaft TT02
#54502 Alum Propeller Joint TT02
Tip:
Put a 3mm piece of well greased silicone hose between the dog bone and the shaft of each wheel to reduce slop.

Motor Mount and Gearing:
#54558 TT02 Aluminum Motor Mount
#54500 High Speed Gear Set
#54875 Oil Gear Differential

Steering:
#54550 Low Friction Step Screws
- Full Upgrade Kit -
#54752 Steering Upgrade Kit, Includes all below.
- Individual Parts -
#54574 Aluminum Steering Set
#54575 Aluminum Steering Bridge
#54799 Hi-Torque Servo Saver or #51000 Servo Saver Black
#54248 Aluminum Turnbuckles 3x23
#50797 5mm Short Adjustable Turnbuckle End


Dog Bones to Universal Joints:
- Standard Steel -
#53792 Universal Shaft Assembly (steel), NOTE: Must also use item 54477 on the TT-02
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (steel) (2pieces)
- Lightweight -
#53506 Blue Aluminum 39mm Swing Shaft
#53499 Wheel axle for assembly universal
#53681 Titanium wheel axle for assemblu universal (but this is very expensive)
#53500 cross joints for universal
#54477 Gearbox Joint for Universal Shaft (2pieces)
Tip: Run steel in the front, Alu is okay for the rear but the front takes a lot of wear and impact from crashes

Shock Options:
#54753 Super-mini CVA Oil Shocks, comes with med black springs
#42102 TRF 55mm Shocks

Chassis:
#54639 Carbon Damper Stay Front
#54640 Carbon Damper Stay Rear
#47339 Hard Lower Deck Blue
#47340 Hard Lower Deck White
#54926 Hard Lower Deck Black
#54733 Aluminum Rear Uprights, Gives 3* rear toe in for extra stability
#54549 Aluminum Rear Uprights, 2.5* Rear Toe In
#58584 Hardened A-Parts, Uprights, Hub Carriers, Diff Covers, etc

SUGGESTED BASE SETUPS ----------------------------------

Bashing:
Build to the kit instructions and have fun!

Asphalt Parking Lot Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 3K oil in the rear diff for low / medium grip, 5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip

Carpet Indoor Racing:
Front Diff: 300k-500k (or Tamiya #42247 Gear differential putty)
Rear Diff: 7k -10k in the rear diff for very high grip carpet.


ADDITIONAL RESOURCES -------------------------------------

TT02 Build and Review here
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/ta...nd-review.html

TT02 Tuning and Mods Guide
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html
https://www.rcdriver.com/take-the-versatile-tamiya-tt-02-chassis-to-the-next-level/


Gearing for 17.5t Blinky
http://www.thercracer.com/2013/07/ho...inky-with.html











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Old 07-20-2014, 11:41 PM
  #391  
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ATG - thanks for the tips! i may get a set of 30-32 deg tires... just to compensate when the weather gets warmer.. Im still a casual racer so nothing serious (using a JDM body as the shell).

Keen to hear on your AW grease at the front... right now I will need to just try to push my car further through turns.

One problem I have I think is the front left suspension ball is a lot looser than the front right, and I think it's causing the left wheel to have more play.. and not helping with full throttling on the straight (but also my servo isn't centering 100% too ha!).

Maybe I'll fork out some loose change again for the low friction step screws...

Last edited by Djchow85; 07-21-2014 at 04:53 AM.
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:33 PM
  #392  
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Also what is everyone using as their universal drive shafts?

I'm currently running one side a jazrider universal and one side YR universal (had one from each set bust on me, either didn't threadlock grub screw,Jaz - busted on me after several laps possibly due to the excess droop and having too tall of a ride height). The YR shaft has now been threadlocked. Jazriders were sealed so you're not unable disassemble them.

Currently running a 9T motor for an indoor track. I know there are some brands that offer universals with a thinner shaft but you'd need to couple it with a smaller drive cup. Would the only advantage of these would be its lighter weight but then at the same time not be as strong, having a narrower shaft?

Has anyone used the Tamiya universals?
#53792 http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...assembly-53792

The YeahRacing shaft is of the same design which I'd think be ok as long as I loctite the grub screw?

GPM also make a set but of a different design..

http://www.asiatees.com/display?Tami...id=61349&pid=1
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Old 07-23-2014, 12:48 AM
  #393  
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Originally Posted by Djchow85
Also what is everyone using as their universal drive shafts?

I'm currently running one side a jazrider universal and one side YR universal (had one from each set bust on me, either didn't threadlock grub screw,Jaz - busted on me after several laps possibly due to the excess droop and having too tall of a ride height). The YR shaft has now been threadlocked. Jazriders were sealed so you're not unable disassemble them.

Currently running a 9T motor for an indoor track. I know there are some brands that offer universals with a thinner shaft but you'd need to couple it with a smaller drive cup. Would the only advantage of these would be its lighter weight but then at the same time not be as strong, having a narrower shaft?

Has anyone used the Tamiya universals?
#53792 http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...assembly-53792

The YeahRacing shaft is of the same design which I'd think be ok as long as I loctite the grub screw?

GPM also make a set but of a different design..

http://www.asiatees.com/display?Tami...id=61349&pid=1
I've been using the tamiya universals for years now and never had any problem, i never use threadlock on the grubscrew and it holds perfectly.
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Old 07-26-2014, 04:24 PM
  #394  
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Anyone running an aluminium servo mount? Is it worth it?
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Old 07-27-2014, 12:25 PM
  #395  
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Originally Posted by N-1
Anyone running an aluminium servo mount? Is it worth it?
Nope, not really, although the blue does look pretty!

As a side note, my raced prepped TT02 managed to win the A-final today against Xrays, Hot bodies etc

3 seconds clear gap!

The full write up for the car will done soon.
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Old 07-27-2014, 01:18 PM
  #396  
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
Nope, not really, although the blue does look pretty!

As a side note, my raced prepped TT02 managed to win the A-final today against Xrays, Hot bodies etc

3 seconds clear gap!

The full write up for the car will done soon.
I think skills might have something to do with it but when you spend some time on it the TT02 is a competent chassis that brand snobs sneer at until they get dusted by one. Run mine in 17.5 blinky and it'll keep up with the 13.5 boys if I concentrate. Would still like to read your article though.
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:34 AM
  #397  
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Originally Posted by N-1
Anyone running an aluminium servo mount? Is it worth it?
I do and I like them as they have proper threaded holes which tend to make them a little more suited to being regularly removed vs tapped screw holes.
Plus some have a small heat sink benefit.

Would the alloy not be better at coping with a very hot motor vs plastic?

Cheers,
Crouch
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:03 AM
  #398  
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Originally Posted by N-1
Anyone running an aluminium servo mount? Is it worth it?
Do you mean the servo mounts or motor mount?

As for the alu motor mount i haven't used an alu motor mount cause it isn't needed.
It's better to use the plastic one with the plate that goes between motor mount and motor.
I wouldn't recommend the alu one without using the plate that goes between it.
When the alu motor mount is used and it gets to hot the heat will be past on to the plastic tub and could melt with more slop on the motor mount and this could distroy the gears.

As for the alu servo mounts i can recommend to use the RM-01 type servo mounts, they will bring the servo 3mm more forward and gives more space between motor and servo.
Can only be used with using a trunbuckle from servo to steering.

Hope this helps
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:38 PM
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has anyone opted for after market wheel hexes over the stock plastic wheel hexes? I find sometimes having to readjust the wheel hexes (after seeing wheel wobble from spinning it) as maybe the pin doesn't slot in well.. I don't think its due to a wheel imbalance as I've had times where there was minimal wobble from free spinning it.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:12 PM
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Hey DJ,

I started with the stock brake-disc hexes, but found on the uni's I was using (the shorter broadtech / eagle ones) that the wheels would eventually fall off (wasn't enough thread coming through the lock nut).
I switched to some broadtech / eagle TT01 brake disc ones which seemed to be just a fraction thinner.
With my alloy rear knuckles there was some binding so I then switched to some TT02B hexes which seem to be working well.

Personally I don't like clamping hexes but that's only because I stripped a screw in one a while back.

Cheers,
Crouch
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:03 AM
  #401  
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Hi Guys

Here is a guide to give the TT02 camber without those terrible thick aluminium arms

You can do it with all Tamiya Parts or buy a special little widget thingy

http://www.thercracer.com/2014/07/th...ar-camber.html
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
Hi Guys

Here is a guide to give the TT02 camber without those terrible thick aluminium arms

You can do it with all Tamiya Parts or buy a special little widget thingy

http://www.thercracer.com/2014/07/th...ar-camber.html
I've been reading your modifications and it suddenly came to my mind that the part you've especially made can be mad out of a tamiya part.
You could use the rocker nut from an IFS suspension with part nr 19808126.
The width of the damper stay is 7,3mm and the nut is 8,3mm, you could use a dremel to cut off 1mm or you could use some 0.5x5mm spacers.
One difference is that the rocker nut has got some thread in it, but it can be used for doing this modification.

I've also saw some time ago that there was a guy who fillped the A2 part and then you are able to use the upper camber mount from a TT01.
I haven't tried that cause i don't have the needed parts.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:58 PM
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Excellent thinking Qatmix! Love this chassis for its tinker value!

I've been meaning to post up pics of my TT02 with the eagle plastic drift kit as both the front and rear use similar thinking for camber adjustment.

Will try and do it in the next few days.

Cheers,
Crouch
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:08 AM
  #404  
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Here is my solution with the earlier mentioned rocker nut.
I did however used the longer ball connectors as the turnbuckle will have pore thread in them and it's a bit stronger.
I've also cut the A2 part holder to save some more weight.
My weight saving was up to 7gr.
Total weight of the car now is 1175gr, race ready.
Here are some pictures.


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Old 07-31-2014, 05:43 AM
  #405  
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How much gain have you got from this mod? They look like ride street tires ..
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