Yokomo MR4TC-BD
#3511
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally Posted by HELLOkitty
i am thinking of getting this car but i cannot find it,even speedtech does not have this car kit....kitty
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...e=&man=&page=2
#3512
Originally Posted by JayBee
I don't know it all but this is a bit of info I have on it...
*ROLL CENTER/CAMBER LINKS*
Long Link- A long link gives a lot of body roll in turns. It feels as if the body is willing to keep on rolling, until in the end, the springs prevent it from rolling any further. The car has more grip in corners, especially the middle part. But if there already alot of traction, the long camber links can slow the car down in turns.
Short Link- A short link makes it so that the blody doesn't roll as far, it's tendency to roll drops off as it rolls. It feels as though the car generates a little less grip.
More Parallel Link (more parallel to the lower arm)- A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one. It feels very smooth and consistent as the body rolls in turns.
Angled Link (distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside)- An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (leveling, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar. It gives a little more initial grip, and steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car. The body rolls a little less than with parallel links. It's possible to use softer settings for damping spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilizing the car.
Beware that you should always keep an eye on the balance of your car; large differences in roll center front vs. rear will make the car feel less consistent and less confidence inspiring.
Longer Front- The front rolls and dives more in turns. Lots of steering in mid-corner. Could make the car hook.
Shorter Front- The front feels very stable. A little more turn-in, but has less steering in mid-corner.
Longer Rear- More rear traction in turns, and coming out of them. Rear end slide is very progressive, not unpredictable at all. Make sure that there's enough rear camber though, or you could lose rear traction in turns.
Shorter Rear- The rear feels very stable. It breaks out later and more suddenly, but if it does, the slide is more controllable. It makes the front dive in a little more, which results in more steering, especially when braking.
More Angled Front- Turn-in is very aggressive. The front feels as if it wants to roll less than the rear.
More Angled Rear- The rear end is rock-solid while turning in. It feels very confidence inspiring.
How's that for a little 101 HTH...
*ROLL CENTER/CAMBER LINKS*
Long Link- A long link gives a lot of body roll in turns. It feels as if the body is willing to keep on rolling, until in the end, the springs prevent it from rolling any further. The car has more grip in corners, especially the middle part. But if there already alot of traction, the long camber links can slow the car down in turns.
Short Link- A short link makes it so that the blody doesn't roll as far, it's tendency to roll drops off as it rolls. It feels as though the car generates a little less grip.
More Parallel Link (more parallel to the lower arm)- A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one. It feels very smooth and consistent as the body rolls in turns.
Angled Link (distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside)- An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (leveling, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar. It gives a little more initial grip, and steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car. The body rolls a little less than with parallel links. It's possible to use softer settings for damping spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilizing the car.
Beware that you should always keep an eye on the balance of your car; large differences in roll center front vs. rear will make the car feel less consistent and less confidence inspiring.
Longer Front- The front rolls and dives more in turns. Lots of steering in mid-corner. Could make the car hook.
Shorter Front- The front feels very stable. A little more turn-in, but has less steering in mid-corner.
Longer Rear- More rear traction in turns, and coming out of them. Rear end slide is very progressive, not unpredictable at all. Make sure that there's enough rear camber though, or you could lose rear traction in turns.
Shorter Rear- The rear feels very stable. It breaks out later and more suddenly, but if it does, the slide is more controllable. It makes the front dive in a little more, which results in more steering, especially when braking.
More Angled Front- Turn-in is very aggressive. The front feels as if it wants to roll less than the rear.
More Angled Rear- The rear end is rock-solid while turning in. It feels very confidence inspiring.
How's that for a little 101 HTH...
Here is my BD photos. Would you examine the upper link and tell me what kind of driving behavior I'll be getting with. My home track is asphalts, bumpy and little bit dusty ( medium to low traction I guess ) and quite technical circuit.
#3513
Buyer Beware
Originally Posted by asw7576
Thank you so much JB !!!
Here is my BD photos. Would you examine the upper link and tell me what kind of driving behavior I'll be getting with. My home track is asphalts, bumpy and little bit dusty ( medium to low traction I guess ) and quite technical circuit.
Here is my BD photos. Would you examine the upper link and tell me what kind of driving behavior I'll be getting with. My home track is asphalts, bumpy and little bit dusty ( medium to low traction I guess ) and quite technical circuit.
#3514
Tech Adept
Evening guys.
We're just starting our indoor season this side of the pond (who ever decided it was a pond? Love to see the size of their garden ) so I'm need of a little help on gearing for 19T. Going to be running Reedy QM or Peak Dysantry laydown, track is about the size of the Vegas track. What would be good starting ratio's for these 2 motors? I've only really run 19T outdoors on largish tracks so am a tad in the dark.
Cheers in advance dudes.
Stu
We're just starting our indoor season this side of the pond (who ever decided it was a pond? Love to see the size of their garden ) so I'm need of a little help on gearing for 19T. Going to be running Reedy QM or Peak Dysantry laydown, track is about the size of the Vegas track. What would be good starting ratio's for these 2 motors? I've only really run 19T outdoors on largish tracks so am a tad in the dark.
Cheers in advance dudes.
Stu
#3515
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
yokomo bd ssg (old one)
I was wondering if one of you guys could helpme..
I recently picked up an older style ssg bd
I love this car and it handles REALLY well with all the lightening i 've done to the old bulkheads and such.. but i don't seem to be getting the gearing right.
Does anyone have a suggestion for gearing for this older bd? I'm going to be running stock on asphault.. medium to high bite
Thanks
I recently picked up an older style ssg bd
I love this car and it handles REALLY well with all the lightening i 've done to the old bulkheads and such.. but i don't seem to be getting the gearing right.
Does anyone have a suggestion for gearing for this older bd? I'm going to be running stock on asphault.. medium to high bite
Thanks
#3516
Well I've been running my SD with a Quad Mag at around 7.35:1 overall and this seems a good balance on most indoor tracks.
#3517
Originally Posted by asw7576
Thank you so much JB !!!
Here is my BD photos. Would you examine the upper link and tell me what kind of driving behavior I'll be getting with. My home track is asphalts, bumpy and little bit dusty ( medium to low traction I guess ) and quite technical circuit.
Here is my BD photos. Would you examine the upper link and tell me what kind of driving behavior I'll be getting with. My home track is asphalts, bumpy and little bit dusty ( medium to low traction I guess ) and quite technical circuit.
First of all, use only one!! upperdeck. It gives you much more grip and the handling well be better too. Usually a good startingpoint is: the more grip a track has, the harder a car has to be, so if you are racing outdoors on an, as you say med to low traction track, you should only use one upperdeck to allow the car to felx more.
to the upperlinks:
It should drive pretty simple. maybe a little understeer. Try to use the original "Kingpinballstud", as used in the kit setup. Handling is much better.
#3518
Tech Adept
Ahhh Mr Cann, greetings, I ran my peak dynasty on a ratio of 6.0 at Carpet thrashnal. Fair sized track, and seemed good, others ran there's slightly lower at 6.24.
#3519
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by billdapart
I was wondering if one of you guys could helpme..
I recently picked up an older style ssg bd
I love this car and it handles REALLY well with all the lightening i 've done to the old bulkheads and such.. but i don't seem to be getting the gearing right.
Does anyone have a suggestion for gearing for this older bd? I'm going to be running stock on asphault.. medium to high bite
Thanks
I recently picked up an older style ssg bd
I love this car and it handles REALLY well with all the lightening i 've done to the old bulkheads and such.. but i don't seem to be getting the gearing right.
Does anyone have a suggestion for gearing for this older bd? I'm going to be running stock on asphault.. medium to high bite
Thanks
#3520
Tech Regular
He must mean the TC with the SSG conversion.
#3521
Wasn't the Yokomo car before the SD a belt-drive? Maybe that's what he means by older style BD. I can't remember what it was called but it's the car that Hara won his world championship title with, just a guess.
#3522
MR4 TC Special 2
#3523
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
original MR4-TC. I'm having trouble gearing it too. Biggest spur I think fits is 72 tooth (48 pitch) but the motor mount doesn't allow the motor to get close enough to use the pinion I would like to use (24 tooth). the smallest pinion I can fit while still keeping a decent gear mesh is 28 tooth.