BMI's DB12R
#2431
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Comin at ya from a distant galaxy
Posts: 2,930
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Hey robk ygpm have a solution for your setup for ya, hope it helps
I have a couple questions for stock motor racing:
Has anyone tried .022 springs? I had put them on initially because I felt like the front end was diving around, and i wanted to flatten it out. I took them off because my car was pushing a bit, which may have been more the tires. I was trying gray fronts at the time. However, I had my fastest laps this way.
I have heard of guys with other cars claiming going up on the spring can make the car cut more, if not steer more. Seems like this is with the old school front end more...?
I also went to more caster (shims back), heavier spring (copper, them SM black), 7000 wt instead of 5000wt trying to get the car to get thru the middle of the turn and finish the corner better. Going to a Dbl. Pink / gray combo helped the most. I have noticed that I want more mid/exit steering on a consistent basis...any ideas? I'm trying to get this thing sorted for the Halloween Classic, and i'm going to the local track tomorrow, so fire away
Thanks
Ending setup for the night
Front
.020 spring w/ 1 .010 shim preload
10* block
max castor
1.5* camber
Servo flat, outer ballstud shimmed up 3mm
dbl pink 1/2 sauce 1.70 (track was kinda green at first)
.5 toe out
4mm ride ht
stock width (no shims)
Rear
35wt Losi/Speedmerchant black spring
Corally long ballstud ~2mm taller than stock
1mm droop
chassis & pod flat
.066 flex plate no screw
7000 wt damper lube
grey full sauce 1.80
4mm ride
battery middle
172mm wide
Has anyone tried .022 springs? I had put them on initially because I felt like the front end was diving around, and i wanted to flatten it out. I took them off because my car was pushing a bit, which may have been more the tires. I was trying gray fronts at the time. However, I had my fastest laps this way.
I have heard of guys with other cars claiming going up on the spring can make the car cut more, if not steer more. Seems like this is with the old school front end more...?
I also went to more caster (shims back), heavier spring (copper, them SM black), 7000 wt instead of 5000wt trying to get the car to get thru the middle of the turn and finish the corner better. Going to a Dbl. Pink / gray combo helped the most. I have noticed that I want more mid/exit steering on a consistent basis...any ideas? I'm trying to get this thing sorted for the Halloween Classic, and i'm going to the local track tomorrow, so fire away
Thanks
Ending setup for the night
Front
.020 spring w/ 1 .010 shim preload
10* block
max castor
1.5* camber
Servo flat, outer ballstud shimmed up 3mm
dbl pink 1/2 sauce 1.70 (track was kinda green at first)
.5 toe out
4mm ride ht
stock width (no shims)
Rear
35wt Losi/Speedmerchant black spring
Corally long ballstud ~2mm taller than stock
1mm droop
chassis & pod flat
.066 flex plate no screw
7000 wt damper lube
grey full sauce 1.80
4mm ride
battery middle
172mm wide
#2432
RobK,
Have you tried white rears? Try white rears with double pink fronts on 20 front springs. You may need to go back to the copper center spring. One thing to watch out for with whites is traction going away late in the run.
Have you tried white rears? Try white rears with double pink fronts on 20 front springs. You may need to go back to the copper center spring. One thing to watch out for with whites is traction going away late in the run.
#2433
Hi Jeff,
I don't claim credit for coming up with this solution - one of my racing buddies showed me this.
Basically, you trim the fiberglass backing plate flush with the motor end-bell. Then, bend the tabs backwards and trim them to proper length.
I've attached a pic.
-Rich
I don't claim credit for coming up with this solution - one of my racing buddies showed me this.
Basically, you trim the fiberglass backing plate flush with the motor end-bell. Then, bend the tabs backwards and trim them to proper length.
I've attached a pic.
-Rich
#2435
Hi Jeff,
I don't claim credit for coming up with this solution - one of my racing buddies showed me this.
Basically, you trim the fiberglass backing plate flush with the motor end-bell. Then, bend the tabs backwards and trim them to proper length.
I've attached a pic.
-Rich
I don't claim credit for coming up with this solution - one of my racing buddies showed me this.
Basically, you trim the fiberglass backing plate flush with the motor end-bell. Then, bend the tabs backwards and trim them to proper length.
I've attached a pic.
-Rich
Jeff
#2436
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I have a couple questions for stock motor racing:
Has anyone tried .022 springs? I had put them on initially because I felt like the front end was diving around, and i wanted to flatten it out. I took them off because my car was pushing a bit, which may have been more the tires. I was trying gray fronts at the time. However, I had my fastest laps this way.
I have heard of guys with other cars claiming going up on the spring can make the car cut more, if not steer more. Seems like this is with the old school front end more...?
I also went to more caster (shims back), heavier spring (copper, them SM black), 7000 wt instead of 5000wt trying to get the car to get thru the middle of the turn and finish the corner better. Going to a Dbl. Pink / gray combo helped the most. I have noticed that I want more mid/exit steering on a consistent basis...any ideas? I'm trying to get this thing sorted for the Halloween Classic, and i'm going to the local track tomorrow, so fire away
Thanks
Ending setup for the night
Front
.020 spring w/ 1 .010 shim preload
10* block
max castor
1.5* camber
Servo flat, outer ballstud shimmed up 3mm
dbl pink 1/2 sauce 1.70 (track was kinda green at first)
.5 toe out
4mm ride ht
stock width (no shims)
Rear
35wt Losi/Speedmerchant black spring
Corally long ballstud ~2mm taller than stock
1mm droop
chassis & pod flat
.066 flex plate no screw
7000 wt damper lube
grey full sauce 1.80
4mm ride
battery middle
172mm wide
Has anyone tried .022 springs? I had put them on initially because I felt like the front end was diving around, and i wanted to flatten it out. I took them off because my car was pushing a bit, which may have been more the tires. I was trying gray fronts at the time. However, I had my fastest laps this way.
I have heard of guys with other cars claiming going up on the spring can make the car cut more, if not steer more. Seems like this is with the old school front end more...?
I also went to more caster (shims back), heavier spring (copper, them SM black), 7000 wt instead of 5000wt trying to get the car to get thru the middle of the turn and finish the corner better. Going to a Dbl. Pink / gray combo helped the most. I have noticed that I want more mid/exit steering on a consistent basis...any ideas? I'm trying to get this thing sorted for the Halloween Classic, and i'm going to the local track tomorrow, so fire away
Thanks
Ending setup for the night
Front
.020 spring w/ 1 .010 shim preload
10* block
max castor
1.5* camber
Servo flat, outer ballstud shimmed up 3mm
dbl pink 1/2 sauce 1.70 (track was kinda green at first)
.5 toe out
4mm ride ht
stock width (no shims)
Rear
35wt Losi/Speedmerchant black spring
Corally long ballstud ~2mm taller than stock
1mm droop
chassis & pod flat
.066 flex plate no screw
7000 wt damper lube
grey full sauce 1.80
4mm ride
battery middle
172mm wide
#2437
#2440
#2441
Jason you have email.
Wes
Wes
#2442
Did you include some of the aluminum front end spacers in what you sent to the Halloween Classic? I need to pick up a set.
#2444
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
Hey rob,
Try running the pod .5mm tilt with the front of the pod being .5mm lower than the rear of the pod and then set your uptravel over ride height to 1mm. What this will do is give you less pod lift or antisquat under acceleration and do away with some of the push you are getting. At the same time it will still allow you your 1mm uptravel to help absorb the bumps. This gives more overall steering from my experience. Let me know how it goes.
Try running the pod .5mm tilt with the front of the pod being .5mm lower than the rear of the pod and then set your uptravel over ride height to 1mm. What this will do is give you less pod lift or antisquat under acceleration and do away with some of the push you are getting. At the same time it will still allow you your 1mm uptravel to help absorb the bumps. This gives more overall steering from my experience. Let me know how it goes.
#2445
Good luck to the BMI team heading to, The Gate this weekend!!!
Wes
Wes