Yokomo MR-4TC SD
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
when I played around with using the upper hole in the front castor block and spacing the steering knuckle up I didn't like it, For me the car felt very inconsistent. If you move your front shocks out on the tower you will get a more direct steering feel and more off power steering.
Originally posted by Horatio
Pops - you're right. Final ratio is final ratio, makes no difference how you get there. Having a 2.5 internal ratio will just make the gearing more similare to a TC3. In other words you just end up using bigger pinions/smaller spurs to end up with the same gearing that you had before
Why would anyone want too?
This subject popped up before when someone made some ridiculous and un-substantiated claims about some gears he was selling. When roasted on the subject, he disappeared and took his lousy gears with him!!
Mystery solved!
Pops - you're right. Final ratio is final ratio, makes no difference how you get there. Having a 2.5 internal ratio will just make the gearing more similare to a TC3. In other words you just end up using bigger pinions/smaller spurs to end up with the same gearing that you had before
Why would anyone want too?
This subject popped up before when someone made some ridiculous and un-substantiated claims about some gears he was selling. When roasted on the subject, he disappeared and took his lousy gears with him!!
Mystery solved!
Originally posted by utieh
The only reason I see is if the internal gear ratio is higher you will be able to use smaller pinion gears so the motor will be more centered (or perhaps it is the opposite ...i'm a little bit ill right now so Ican't think too much! )
The only reason I see is if the internal gear ratio is higher you will be able to use smaller pinion gears so the motor will be more centered (or perhaps it is the opposite ...i'm a little bit ill right now so Ican't think too much! )
Say you need to run 1:7.4 overall ratio. On the stock internal gearing (1:2.353) that's a 22 tooth pinion and a 70 tooth spur
70 divided by 22 = 3.18
multiplied by the internal ratio 2.353 = 1:7.4
Now to achieve the same ratio with an internal ratio of 2.5
25 tooth pinion on a 74 tooth spur = 1:7.4
This will place the motor considerably further outward (using a considerably bigger spur and pinion).
So all things considered, even taking into account motor position/weight distribution - you're still no better off getting a 2.5 ratio kit. Best stick with stock 2.353 gearing!!
Hope you feel better soon mate!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
difference?
I know this may be an old topic but is there any difference between the Sd1 and the Sd3 other than one is silver and one is Black graphite?
Thanx
Mike
Thanx
Mike
Re: difference?
Originally posted by Keeebler28
I know this may be an old topic but is there any difference between the Sd1 and the Sd3 other than one is silver and one is Black graphite?
Thanx
Mike
I know this may be an old topic but is there any difference between the Sd1 and the Sd3 other than one is silver and one is Black graphite?
Thanx
Mike
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
putting in this new motor and running tonight, my comm got pretty thrashed. i'm running 78t/48p spur - 23t pinion. i can't remember for the life of me if gearing higher means running a lower tooth pinion or a higher tooth pinion? at this point all i want to do is deal with different pinions and see whichone keeps the comm looking the best while still maintaining speed. i do know that springs and brushes can help in this dept. too.
now off to clean up this comm....
- jaYBee
now off to clean up this comm....
- jaYBee
Last edited by JayBee; 09-12-2008 at 09:27 PM.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
here's the motor i'm speak'n of...
- jaYBee
- jaYBee
Last edited by JayBee; 09-12-2008 at 09:27 PM.
jaybee, you do have a gearing, problem, your way undergeared. your motor is running wide open for to long and thats why it burned. i'll pm you my phone number, call me and i'll tell you what gearing i used at FW and nats. also some tuning stuff for that motor.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by JayBee
putting in this new motor and running tonight, my comm got pretty thrashed. i'm running 78t/48p spur - 23t pinion. i can't remember for the life of me if gearing higher means running a lower tooth pinion or a higher tooth pinion? at this point all i want to do is deal with different pinions and see whichone keeps the comm looking the best while still maintaining speed. i do know that springs and brushes can help in this dept. too.
now off to clean up this comm....
- jaYBee
putting in this new motor and running tonight, my comm got pretty thrashed. i'm running 78t/48p spur - 23t pinion. i can't remember for the life of me if gearing higher means running a lower tooth pinion or a higher tooth pinion? at this point all i want to do is deal with different pinions and see whichone keeps the comm looking the best while still maintaining speed. i do know that springs and brushes can help in this dept. too.
now off to clean up this comm....
- jaYBee
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by pops
Its been a while since we ran an MVP motor, but for starts you should be running an MVP of somewhere between 6.8 to 7.2 and look at the comm and speed on the track. The final drive you have right now is 7.98. A 78t/26t will put you at 7.059 final drive ratio. So I would go up 3 teeth. If you go to gearchart.com you can make a printout of spur and pinion combinations.
Its been a while since we ran an MVP motor, but for starts you should be running an MVP of somewhere between 6.8 to 7.2 and look at the comm and speed on the track. The final drive you have right now is 7.98. A 78t/26t will put you at 7.059 final drive ratio. So I would go up 3 teeth. If you go to gearchart.com you can make a printout of spur and pinion combinations.
- jayBee
Originally posted by Horatio
It's actually the opposite
Say you need to run 1:7.4 overall ratio. On the stock internal gearing (1:2.353) that's a 22 tooth pinion and a 70 tooth spur
70 divided by 22 = 3.18
multiplied by the internal ratio 2.353 = 1:7.4
Now to achieve the same ratio with an internal ratio of 2.5
25 tooth pinion on a 74 tooth spur = 1:7.4
This will place the motor considerably further outward (using a considerably bigger spur and pinion).
So all things considered, even taking into account motor position/weight distribution - you're still no better off getting a 2.5 ratio kit. Best stick with stock 2.353 gearing!!
Hope you feel better soon mate!
It's actually the opposite
Say you need to run 1:7.4 overall ratio. On the stock internal gearing (1:2.353) that's a 22 tooth pinion and a 70 tooth spur
70 divided by 22 = 3.18
multiplied by the internal ratio 2.353 = 1:7.4
Now to achieve the same ratio with an internal ratio of 2.5
25 tooth pinion on a 74 tooth spur = 1:7.4
This will place the motor considerably further outward (using a considerably bigger spur and pinion).
So all things considered, even taking into account motor position/weight distribution - you're still no better off getting a 2.5 ratio kit. Best stick with stock 2.353 gearing!!
Hope you feel better soon mate!
so you can actually use smaller spur gears (not pinion gears) and have your motor more centered).
the guy (Leo Chan?) who posted about this Product D part never explained the benefits.
I'm better this morning (went ill because my boss is British and he forced me to drink tea with milk...I'm more a coffee guy)
Originally posted by utieh
(went ill because my boss is British and he forced me to drink tea with milk...I'm more a coffee guy)
(went ill because my boss is British and he forced me to drink tea with milk...I'm more a coffee guy)
Originally posted by sosidge
Utieh, that is the WORST excuse ever for taking a sickie!
Utieh, that is the WORST excuse ever for taking a sickie!
Guys.... do you know the effects of mounting suspension more vertical versus more incline / flat position ?
I'm thinking to set the rear suspension more incline / flatter than the front.
I'm thinking to set the rear suspension more incline / flatter than the front.
Originally posted by utieh
Thanks
so you can actually use smaller spur gears (not pinion gears) and have your motor more centered).
Thanks
so you can actually use smaller spur gears (not pinion gears) and have your motor more centered).
In theory, yep! But in reality you need the motor to help balance the weight of the heavy GP cells on the other side of the chassis.
the guy (Leo Chan?) who posted about this Product D part never explained the benefits.
I'm better this morning (went ill because my boss is British and he forced me to drink tea with milk...I'm more a coffee guy)
Personally I prefer coffee too.