NTC3NUT

fastharry,
I have had both on my car the entire time I've owned it. They save a total of 1 gram each, not much I know, but it is rotating weight. Can you honestly tell a differance? Probably, but I think the major savings I got with with the 2-speed was the TiR titanium shaft, and the actual L/W clutch bell on the motor. Who knows, I just bought them for the peace of mind that you get with the best stuff available on your car, know what I mean?

Striker,
It depends on what type of transponders your club uses. Our club uses "personal" transponders that you buy yourself and keep ($50), and the more traditional type of "box" transponder that most are familiar with. The box transponders are inserted & removed for every heat, and the personals are mounted and left on your cars chassis. There are a million places to mount either on your car, it's really up to you.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

thanks.....I'll put them on one of my cars and try it...I already have the clutchbell,which I did like.....

The funny part is,after years of hopping up and modding HPI cars,I almost feel guilty spending money on teh tc3's...Imagine,a car you can mod cause you want to,not that you have to..

ever seen those OS turbos run yet...any idea it they are cranky or not?.......though with OS,I would doubt it....

I have the new HD one way from associated....a major difference in size.......we are not running in NJ yet,bit I will give it a try...

and thats one thing all these tc3 bashers aren't getting(esp. the newly formed "on teh bandwagon" Mugen owners club")....unlike a belt car,this car is SO easy to not only tune,but to make drivetrain choices for any given track need....

I don't understand their jumping off the Tc3....

you would think,if they wanted to go to a slower belt car,at least they'd go with an Impulse 705...ANOTHER car which is higher quality,AND faster then a Mugen......or a reflex...

Striker

iTrader: (2)

I know that I can mount it just about anywhere on the car... What I'm asking is where the rest of you put them on your cars, the personal one's or the box type. I mainly wondering about where to add this extra weight. Thanks again.

sook

Hey fastharry, I dont plan on jumping ship. I enjoy setting up and racing the nitro tc3. Both of them handle like they are on rails. But its fun to throw the old rs4 out on the track for practice, then take the tc3 out to race.

NTC3NUT

Most people mount their transponders at or near the front of the car. It may help with a "photo finsh", if you know what I mean. I don't think the weights a big deal, the personal transponders weight almost nothing, and are practically flat, with about a 1" square footprint. You can use 2-way tape to mount them. I have seen them on radio plates, servos, bumpers, and on top of reciever packs (on the NTC3). The box type are a little heavier, like an ounce or something. Most people just keep it simple and ream out a hole in the body, usually in the wind shield, just to keep it where they can see it and get to it easily. If your really worried about the weight, and getting one located where you want it, go out and buy a fake practice transponder. You can get a really nice one from AE for $11. You can mount it where you like, and practice with the weight in the car. Hope that's more helpfull.

Boomer

with my personal transponder, I have a piece of ABS that is attached to the front diff casing and has some heavy duty velcro on it.

I have heavy duty velcro (the hooks) on my transponder. This way I can move it between my Pro10, Electric and Nitro without too much trouble. It has only come loose once. . .and I wasn't surprised that time. . .

OB42TC3

Velcro's pretty nice stuff as far as mounting receivers,escs, and PTs isn't it? I have gone so far as to mount my 1/12 stuff with it. Its also very good at not transmitting vibration to the equiptment.

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Whats up all? Is Kfactory the only company that makes a Side Brace for the NItro tc3?

ALso, You all that have the kfactory side brace, what are your thgouhts on it? Also have you broken it??


Thanks Jason

ilaybrk

my friend broke one well he cracked one. he didn't know he broke it I saw it when looking at his car A week later

speedy100

the people who have the yokomo 6mm one-way, can you tell me your comments ? i have had the problem that the ring gear stripped very frequently after it has been added. I heard that we should add shim on the one-way..is that right ? how to make it ? any insight you have will be appreciated. thank you.......

deanspoors

could someone explain this to me please! why dont ntc3 racers like the toe link at the rear? whats so good about the pivot ball setup? nothings ever went wrong with mine! ,dean

Bryan N.

People don't like the rear toe in linkage because without modification they could pop out easily.

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

When will RD Logics release the tuned pipe? Last time I emailed them, they said, "late Jan." Is this a totally new pipe(not a modded AE pipe)? And will it outperform the dual chamber F.T. pipe?

And with the alumin cases, do have to add more shims or will the stock recommendations be fine?

I'm surprised with all the hop-ups for the NTC3, that no one produced a solution for the rear toe links yet. If the rumors of AE drivers testing a whole new rear suspension are true, then maybe we won't need a "fix".

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

bolasario as for the shimmings you would have to fit the
aluminum case first. just like changing diff cases plastic.
you have to shim accordingly there is no specific # of shims

as for the dual chambered pipe the chambered pipe it
is different from the AE pipe. performance wise you can
be the judge of that. i will give you feed back on the
pipe as soon as I get my hands on one

as for the toe link we haven't done any thing like you said
ae is testing out a new rear end.

we have new hinge pin blocks coming out with low, standard
and high roll center for additional tuning that i highly recomend.

Twist 2 Go

Got my AE starter box yesyerday and spent the better part of today installing the 12V gel cell battery in it. I got it done and did not have to use any tie straps or cut anything. Here's how I did it. I took the battery and put foam on the top of it and on both sides so there was no side-to-side movement, lined the sides of the box with duct tape as an extra precaution against shorting the posts out. Then I took a small piece of 3/16" plywood and cut it to 4"x3 1/2". I removed the end cap of the box, slid the battery in and then put the piece of plywood between the battery and the bottom of the box. Then I reinstalled the end cap and the battery is now very securely mounted in the box.