RD/Richey Racing Engine
04-13-2005, 01:37 PM
#767
Originally posted by WeatherB
Hey guys,
I purchased one of these engines from my LHS yesterday...
I will be running 15% nitro, do I need to remove any head shims? I remember seeing somewhere that I need to remove all the headshims except the copper one.
Can anyone confirm this?
tnx
Hey guys,
I purchased one of these engines from my LHS yesterday...
I will be running 15% nitro, do I need to remove any head shims? I remember seeing somewhere that I need to remove all the headshims except the copper one.
Can anyone confirm this?
tnx
04-13-2005, 08:58 PM
#770
So far this engine has been awesome, I ran about a tank of gas through it so far.
It did something really weird around 1/2 tank though. The engine's RPM became unstable and increased from a quiet idle to about 1/4 throttle (estimate) by itself (without carb input).
I shut it off and let the engine cool, it was fine for the remainder of the tank.
Engine temp was 180°
It did something really weird around 1/2 tank though. The engine's RPM became unstable and increased from a quiet idle to about 1/4 throttle (estimate) by itself (without carb input).
I shut it off and let the engine cool, it was fine for the remainder of the tank.
Engine temp was 180°
04-15-2005, 02:10 PM
#771
What method did some of you use to break the engine in? The "Goose" makes its maiden voyage this sunday so I wanted to start off right.
04-15-2005, 02:57 PM
#772
Everyone will tell you something different...
But personally I do this:
Tank 1,2 - Leave the engine at factory settings and start it up. Let it sit there and idle. Once finished, let the engine cool with the piston at BDC (bottom).
Tank 3-10 - Drive the car around going about 1/4 - 1/2 throttle only. You want the engine to run at different rpms.
Tank 11 - start leaning slowly.
The breakin process will last about 1 - 1.5L of fuel.
But personally I do this:
Tank 1,2 - Leave the engine at factory settings and start it up. Let it sit there and idle. Once finished, let the engine cool with the piston at BDC (bottom).
Tank 3-10 - Drive the car around going about 1/4 - 1/2 throttle only. You want the engine to run at different rpms.
Tank 11 - start leaning slowly.
The breakin process will last about 1 - 1.5L of fuel.
04-16-2005, 06:46 AM
#773
Is O'donell's 30% ok to use or am I better off with 20%? I'm located in the NYC area if that makes a difference.
04-18-2005, 10:32 AM
#774
Weather B,
You do that with your servos reversed? Josh Cyrul's tips are the best I have found. Try his method...it works.
http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php
Good luck!!
john
You do that with your servos reversed?
Josh Cyrul's tips are the best I have found. Try his method...it works.http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php
Good luck!!
john
04-18-2005, 11:08 AM
#775
Nope, throttle servo is not reversed. Only steering. 
Personally I wouldn't want to start a brand new engine and give it full throttle. That's just me though. But he makes a good point about more fuel = more lubrication and properly seating the parts.
Personally I wouldn't want to start a brand new engine and give it full throttle. That's just me though. But he makes a good point about more fuel = more lubrication and properly seating the parts.
04-27-2005, 08:30 AM
#777
Tech Adept
04-27-2005, 02:02 PM
#778
I have seen this motor run at a recent test. Great performance.
John
John
05-03-2005, 09:03 PM
#779
shim
I'm run 30% fuel with rb 6 plug is it safe to remove silver or copper. And what was happen if i do remove one of the shim. And what is a good clearance for 30% fuel
05-07-2005, 03:26 AM
#780
Shims
Most engines come from the factory shimmed to run at a MAXIMUM nitro content of 30%. If your running I believe an RB6 plug which i believe is a hot plug you run the risk of detonation in warmer weather. If you remove any one of these shims you will probably risk detonation at sea level, especially in warm summer temps. Motorman knows more about this, but I personally would leave it alone.