Mugen MTX-4
08-10-2006, 01:02 PM
#5731
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
I can attest to what Wallyedmonds sais. I just came back from the GLC. The track there is a great place to test your clutch. I had a hard time getting the clutch settup by myself. I actualy didn't know what I was doing till I was told by a great person from Canada what I was doing wrong. I had my engines comeing in at 360 and 365, two runs back to back! Engine now is excellent after setting the clutch properly. Shoe and spring are key and adjustment of them is even more important!
Nice to finally meet you.
Thanks for the part, you are the man.
Get my number from Gary and keep in touch.
08-10-2006, 04:33 PM
#5732
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Need some ceramic clutch bearings, know where I can get some for a good price? 
08-10-2006, 04:37 PM
#5733
Originally Posted by Seisick
asw, do you glue them? nice idea since using a metal shim means more weigth,the gasket could do the same but with less rotating mass.
twoo, i agree that the shoe wears on an angle, as the shoe wears on its contact point, more gap between the shoe and the bell right?therefore this gap (adjusted with shims between nut and first inner bearing) should be checked every while. I could say that the shoes are designed to provide the best grip 'til they wear, but if I can a few practice weekends from using the shims on used yellow shoes, then ok for practice, for racing new one of course!
wally, spending $260 a year just on shoes is no fun! I used gray shoe and super hard, but switched to yellow and ultra hard, it lasted 10 hours just the shoe, and the spring since it's designed for 1/8 will last more than the super hard for sure
thanks for the inputs
I'd like to share a tip, to prevent wear of the chassis on the fronT and rear I use 2 zip ties, my chassis is like new and I chage the zip ties every 30 minutes racing, the ties go around the bumper and the front before the blade bar, and in the rear around the 2 holes of the rear arm mount and the chassis, beware the lock itself should not be on the bottom but hidden. (I now can use for practice very small foams with a higher gearing with no fear of wearing the chassis)
happy racing
twoo, i agree that the shoe wears on an angle, as the shoe wears on its contact point, more gap between the shoe and the bell right?therefore this gap (adjusted with shims between nut and first inner bearing) should be checked every while. I could say that the shoes are designed to provide the best grip 'til they wear, but if I can a few practice weekends from using the shims on used yellow shoes, then ok for practice, for racing new one of course!
wally, spending $260 a year just on shoes is no fun! I used gray shoe and super hard, but switched to yellow and ultra hard, it lasted 10 hours just the shoe, and the spring since it's designed for 1/8 will last more than the super hard for sure
thanks for the inputs
I'd like to share a tip, to prevent wear of the chassis on the fronT and rear I use 2 zip ties, my chassis is like new and I chage the zip ties every 30 minutes racing, the ties go around the bumper and the front before the blade bar, and in the rear around the 2 holes of the rear arm mount and the chassis, beware the lock itself should not be on the bottom but hidden. (I now can use for practice very small foams with a higher gearing with no fear of wearing the chassis)
happy racing
08-10-2006, 07:28 PM
#5735
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Need some ceramic clutch bearings, know where I can get some for a good price?
I got mine from vxb bearings. I believe a lot of 10 is $50. I had blown a few (not a lot) of clutch bearings. I made two changes to my clutch setup at the same time, one of which was going to ceramic bearings. I have not blown one clutch bearing since then. I don't know if it was the ceramics or the other thing I did, but either way it is worth it. I use the standard bearing on the outside of the bell and ceramics on the inside.
08-10-2006, 07:46 PM
#5736
Tech Rookie
does the mtx3 clutch shoe work with the mtx4
08-10-2006, 07:53 PM
#5737
Originally Posted by Jamie Corrado
James,
Nice to finally meet you.
Thanks for the part, you are the man.
Get my number from Gary and keep in touch.
Nice to finally meet you.
Thanks for the part, you are the man.
Get my number from Gary and keep in touch.
Hope to see you in Ft Myers or at the Kissimmee open race.
james
08-10-2006, 08:45 PM
#5739
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Can you explain why it's not worth it?
08-10-2006, 08:51 PM
#5740
this bearings for avid are very durable:
http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&i...=1&prevstart=0
a buck a piece!
follow his clutch bearing prep.:
http://www.avidrc.com/?action=support#life
they will last at least a gallon. they will last longer than that for sure, but if you want to be safe, you can replace them every gallon or 2.
http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&i...=1&prevstart=0
a buck a piece!
follow his clutch bearing prep.:
http://www.avidrc.com/?action=support#life
they will last at least a gallon. they will last longer than that for sure, but if you want to be safe, you can replace them every gallon or 2.
08-10-2006, 11:14 PM
#5741
Tech Apprentice
new mtx 4 owener
hey guys,
I'm planning to pick up a mtx4 kit tomorrow and hopefully start building it this weekend. I was wondering if you guys can leave me some tips, advice or just plain suggestions for the build. I'm not a complete newbie, i've raced electric on-road as well as 1/8 offroad so i have some experience.
What kind of tires come with this kit? What offset should i buy when looking for tires? I'm also accustomed to a full diff setup (i like brakes) and don't prefer the one-way so can i put a diff in the front as well? IF so what parts will i need? I went back about 50 pages and started reading up on this thread to look for some pointers, but its a slow process.
thanks in advance
ryan
I'm planning to pick up a mtx4 kit tomorrow and hopefully start building it this weekend. I was wondering if you guys can leave me some tips, advice or just plain suggestions for the build. I'm not a complete newbie, i've raced electric on-road as well as 1/8 offroad so i have some experience.
What kind of tires come with this kit? What offset should i buy when looking for tires? I'm also accustomed to a full diff setup (i like brakes) and don't prefer the one-way so can i put a diff in the front as well? IF so what parts will i need? I went back about 50 pages and started reading up on this thread to look for some pointers, but its a slow process.
thanks in advance
ryan
08-11-2006, 03:05 AM
#5742
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
No problem. Going to be cutting some new stuff this weekend, will have to get you a few parts out. I'm looking to revise my 3mm top deck with a way to hold the fuel line, and also, I think I've come up with a way to lower the top deck down 2mm.
08-11-2006, 06:23 AM
#5743
well, i tried the diff gasket cut into four pieces, more like a en entire shim seated on the plate and not just around the hole, glue them with ca just in case and the old yellow shoe went in, gained about 0.4mm extra life on the shoe and it worked just like without a shim under the shoe, exactly the same, but I just made sure with a couple runs to BREAKIN the shoe since the new exposed part has to be seated at a new angle given by the point of contact with the bell.
my usb connection with the digicam is not working dunno why, but 1 zip tie around the hole and the chassis of the rear lower suspension arm mount (where you place to bushing with a,b,c position) with the zip tie's lock toward the rear, prevents wear on the rear part of your chassis, that's it
happy racing
my usb connection with the digicam is not working dunno why, but 1 zip tie around the hole and the chassis of the rear lower suspension arm mount (where you place to bushing with a,b,c position) with the zip tie's lock toward the rear, prevents wear on the rear part of your chassis, that's it
happy racing
08-11-2006, 06:56 AM
#5744
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
this bearings for avid are very durable:
http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&i...=1&prevstart=0
a buck a piece!
follow his clutch bearing prep.:
http://www.avidrc.com/?action=support#life
they will last at least a gallon. they will last longer than that for sure, but if you want to be safe, you can replace them every gallon or 2.
http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&i...=1&prevstart=0
a buck a piece!
follow his clutch bearing prep.:
http://www.avidrc.com/?action=support#life
they will last at least a gallon. they will last longer than that for sure, but if you want to be safe, you can replace them every gallon or 2.
08-11-2006, 07:34 AM
#5745
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
The manual says 5x8mm, will the 5x8x2.5mm work??