gdiddy

I don't know if this problem had been brought up, if so I apologise. LED's 1&2, 6&7 are flashing on my RS Pro, which according to the manual, the wrong motor type has been selected. I'm running a brushless and that's what I selected in the Hot Wire program, when I press 'Apply Settings' the pop up window informs me that my settings has been saved. But the LED's keep flashing. Any assistance with this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

If it were me I would drop the turbo to 5 or less, drop the timing to 50, increase your timing advance to max (the timing advance is just back up in case you run into sensor or sensor wire failure), increase your delay to at least .2, and move the end RPM to something between 12k and 14k. Be sure you're running in sensored only mode. As always check your temps; you may be able to move the timing on the motor back to 0.

I am not certain, but I think I have seen LEDS on hte outside light up when an incorrect lipo cutoff is set; ie when you have 2s as the cutoff and are trying to run 1s. I would check in the HW that you have your cutoffs where they should be.

trf415msx

iTrader: (24)

you blow the speedo need to contact tekin

Senna Racing

iTrader: (2)

before you contact tekin try a different sensor wire, then try removeing ever thing from your reciver then power up the esc, and see if it gives you the beep beep

lastly try the motor if you have a spare

but it could be your tekin

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Until yesterday, i have had a great experience with my second RS. On a whim, it decided to only give me drag brake and NO push brake. Its like my mom decided to take away my pudding, even though i ate my meat. (Thats a nod to Pink Floyd for you pervs out there)

Anyways. I changed NOTHING brake related on the radio. I changed nothing brake related on the speedo. I did not do anything that required a radio recalibrate. I did not leave it unplugged too long so the time needed to be reset.

All i did was turn it on, and NO PUSH BRAKES. It worked fine the week before. Today, drag brake was kicking in around 2/3 throttle, nowhere near neutral, and my deadband is set to 10. I have been using the throttle/brake EPA settings at 95 and opened up to 100 after ESC calibration for months, and now this. I have an M8 FHSS2 Airtronics transmitter/module/receiver that i know very well, and have had NO issues with.

WTF?!

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

Check your solder connections on the motor and speedo. If there is even the smallest sliver of solder connecting two poles, it will give you those lights. Been there, done that. Make sure you check the bottom of the poles as well for any solder that may have dripped down to make the ground.

EVILGRAFX

iTrader: (37)

Yeah, what Tony said.

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Hey guys, have a question, i am running 208 software in my rs pro would there by any issue going back to the 203 version. I have 2 different laptops one with 203 and one with 208. Any help would be great.

JR007

Have you re-calibrated your radio to the esc to see if that helps? Almost sounds like your neutral is off. I had this last week with my 3PK and had to adjsut the neutral nad endpoints on the radio itself as they had just crept out of what the RS could pick up

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

I wanna say thanks for responding.

No i didnt recalibrate, and only because i didnt think i should have to. I have calibrated speedos to my radio that to this day after years of sitting in a box, operate perfectly with my radio set to the neutral settings the speedos were calibrated with. NO issues.

Are you suggesting that my radio may need servicing? I dont know how the settings could creep out of adjustment without either something going wrong with the radio, or physically making changes. Was there a problem with your radio, or are we coming to the conclusion that there is something wrong with the RS in that it needs to be randomly recalibrated?

This is frustrating. The RS is such a wonderful speedo with all of its (tun)ability, but the 'bugs' or 'quirks' that seem to be passed off as urban legend can wear thin on you in the middle of a hectic race day.

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

The potentiometer in the radio for the throttle may be out of adjustment causing the nuetral point to wander. You can "reset" the nuetral and end points through one of the functions on the radio.

eapatt76

iTrader: (2)

I am runing a sc10 on a hard and slick indoor dirt track thundervalleyrcraceway.com, just purchased a tekin and a duo epic 17.5. I have the hotwire and downloaded the latest version. I need help setting this thing up.
thanks everyone

Advil

iTrader: (19)

"How can you have any pudding if you don't eat your meat?"



P.S. change your sensor wire.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

If you get 12 67 try another known good motor. The sensor harness has NO absolutely NO affect on this led sequence.

If your Rs is acting funny a fresh radio calibration is always the next step.

JR007

With the modern electronics, they are quite sensitive. Most drivers get around it by having a wide Neutral Width, which accomodates for the neutral drift.
If you can't adjsut that manually, you may need to send it in, or try widening the neutral width as mentioned. Make it about 40 or so and see if it works.
Not sure about your radio, but on the 3PK there is a adjustment setting that lets you "confirm" the positions of the trigger from neutral, full throttle, and full brake.