Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#1066
Tech Regular
and another...
#1067
Tech Regular
and one that just looks cool i think....
#1068
Tech Regular
Today i ran the car at the carpet track and i since i have no hop up and i need springs that are on order i got a decent time of 13.8
I also broke a arm like everyone has im sure but heres something you might want to look at.
I also broke a arm like everyone has im sure but heres something you might want to look at.
#1070
Tech Fanatic
Got our kit built this weekend. My initial impressions of the SD build:
Upside: Well-made parts and molds. Drive train is very free without the work you put into freeing up the TC3.
Downside: Top plate is too flexy making the overall chassis a bit more flexy than you'd expect with a 3mm bottom plate. Wish Yok had spec'd teflon-sealed bearings, aluminum CVDs, fewer steel screws and maybe fewer plastic parts. Can't use AE springs (too long). Droop screws don't rest on chassis plate with kit suspension set up.
Upside: Well-made parts and molds. Drive train is very free without the work you put into freeing up the TC3.
Downside: Top plate is too flexy making the overall chassis a bit more flexy than you'd expect with a 3mm bottom plate. Wish Yok had spec'd teflon-sealed bearings, aluminum CVDs, fewer steel screws and maybe fewer plastic parts. Can't use AE springs (too long). Droop screws don't rest on chassis plate with kit suspension set up.
#1071
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by coolrcdad
...Downside: Top plate is too flexy making the overall chassis a bit more flexy than you'd expect with a 3mm bottom plate. Wish Yok had spec'd teflon-sealed bearings, aluminum CVDs, fewer steel screws and maybe fewer plastic parts. Can't use AE springs (too long). Droop screws don't rest on chassis plate with kit suspension set up.
...Downside: Top plate is too flexy making the overall chassis a bit more flexy than you'd expect with a 3mm bottom plate. Wish Yok had spec'd teflon-sealed bearings, aluminum CVDs, fewer steel screws and maybe fewer plastic parts. Can't use AE springs (too long). Droop screws don't rest on chassis plate with kit suspension set up.
had a problem with the droop issue to, but only up front...solved it with the longer lower shock ends.
scale of 1-10...9.85 Yokomo did a lot of research when developing this car...i see a lot things that i wished for in the other shaft cars on, and a few cool things xclusive to the YOK...
may not be teflon shocks..but damn do they go together easily...and no air in there..
#1072
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by coolrcdad
Got our kit built this weekend. My initial impressions of the SD build:
Upside: Well-made parts and molds. Drive train is very free without the work you put into freeing up the TC3.
Downside: Top plate is too flexy making the overall chassis a bit more flexy than you'd expect with a 3mm bottom plate. Wish Yok had spec'd teflon-sealed bearings, aluminum CVDs, fewer steel screws and maybe fewer plastic parts. Can't use AE springs (too long). Droop screws don't rest on chassis plate with kit suspension set up.
Got our kit built this weekend. My initial impressions of the SD build:
Upside: Well-made parts and molds. Drive train is very free without the work you put into freeing up the TC3.
Downside: Top plate is too flexy making the overall chassis a bit more flexy than you'd expect with a 3mm bottom plate. Wish Yok had spec'd teflon-sealed bearings, aluminum CVDs, fewer steel screws and maybe fewer plastic parts. Can't use AE springs (too long). Droop screws don't rest on chassis plate with kit suspension set up.
yes he top plate is flexy by itself...but when on the chassis...overall the chassis is very stiff.
I was able to get teflon sealed bearing for about $26.00 shipped. THat is a bargain. PM me and I'll give you how to contact her. yes...it's a her..
#1073
Tech Elite
iTrader: (21)
i have to complement yokomo on designing what looks like another contender.
one question though, why is the slotted hole for mounting the servo not countersunk??? it seems funny to over look such a detail.
also...
if anyone knows the internal ratio, and the actual tooth counts on the ring and crown gears, i would be greatful.
peter
one question though, why is the slotted hole for mounting the servo not countersunk??? it seems funny to over look such a detail.
also...
if anyone knows the internal ratio, and the actual tooth counts on the ring and crown gears, i would be greatful.
peter
#1075
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
Peter- the internal ratio is 2.353
Tag- www.speedworldraceway.com has them for $279.99, I think Billy still has one or two left.
Tag- www.speedworldraceway.com has them for $279.99, I think Billy still has one or two left.
#1076
Tech Fanatic
Peter: Sam noticed that, too so he used a hex nut that fits inside the slot and added servo tape to secure the servo.
Tag: We got ours from speedtechrc for $269.
Osherman: we tried the longer shock bottom mounts and thought the front shocks were too long with them.
Ran the car today on carpet with the kit set up and springs (CS27 tires) and it handled very well out of the box. Lots of steering.
Tag: We got ours from speedtechrc for $269.
Osherman: we tried the longer shock bottom mounts and thought the front shocks were too long with them.
Ran the car today on carpet with the kit set up and springs (CS27 tires) and it handled very well out of the box. Lots of steering.
#1077
Tech Fanatic
But wait, there's more! . . .
The hex nut in the non countersunk servo chassis hole helps keep the servo from shifting around but the tape is essential.
And, is Yok serious about the kit gear ratio? 5.5?
The hex nut in the non countersunk servo chassis hole helps keep the servo from shifting around but the tape is essential.
And, is Yok serious about the kit gear ratio? 5.5?
#1078
whats wrong with the kit bearings ? Also what Cells fit best in the battery slots GP or the Sanyos ? Are you guys running into any problems when building the car ? Do you need to do any Mods to get the drivetrain free ?
Thanks
Thanks
#1079
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
coolrcdad- that ratio is what they run their 23T stock motors in Japan
Thegame- There's nothing wrong with the kit bearings, some people just prefer teflon sealed ones. I'm running the GP's and you just need to file down the battery slots and they fit fine. I haven't heard of anyone having any problems building their kits yet. After about 5-6 battery packs through my car the drivetrain is very free, just space the diffs following the instructions and you'll be fine. No need to shave anything like the TC3.
Has anyone else noticed how quiet the cars are? My car sounds like a belt car, no whine like a TC3 or barracuda
Thegame- There's nothing wrong with the kit bearings, some people just prefer teflon sealed ones. I'm running the GP's and you just need to file down the battery slots and they fit fine. I haven't heard of anyone having any problems building their kits yet. After about 5-6 battery packs through my car the drivetrain is very free, just space the diffs following the instructions and you'll be fine. No need to shave anything like the TC3.
Has anyone else noticed how quiet the cars are? My car sounds like a belt car, no whine like a TC3 or barracuda
#1080
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by Matt Howard
...Has anyone else noticed how quiet the cars are? My car sounds like a belt car, no whine like a TC3 or barracuda
...Has anyone else noticed how quiet the cars are? My car sounds like a belt car, no whine like a TC3 or barracuda
funny you mention it..today at its first outing, the scorekeeper at our track approaches me and compliments me on how the car looks...and also follows up the compliment with, "why is your car so quiet? you can barely hear it? do you use the brakes?"...i just chuckled..