adrictan

iTrader: (10)

My Rear bridge suspension mount of IFS-R, 1 screw broke off and the thread of the screw is inside the part... Now that part is kept to the chassis with 1 other screw.

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

Then instruction 20 on the manual says must cut off a part of the turnbuckle...So troublesome. Tamiya should have pre-cut everything. I don't have the tools man....

scrubnick

iTrader: (5)

There seems to be a lot of discussion about how to get the diff rings to stay locked on the outdrives. Why not do the old pan car trick and pin them? There's a company out there, IRS or Niftech or one of them, that sells a kit for doing it. Basically, put a notch in the inside of the ring and put a small pin in the outdrive to engage it.

Hopefully I can actually run my IFS soon. It sure does make a pretty shelf weapon, though.

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

a fellow forumer from sgdrifters.com helped me with the IFS-R today. He has a TA05. He also agreed that it's a killer.

94eg!

iTrader: (17)

For plastic diff outdrives, it's best to glue washers in place. The plastic is too slippery and only gets worse as the material heats up. If you switch to the Aluminum outdrives (53919 silver or 49425 blue), there is no need to bother. It's exactly the same with the DB01 & 501X...

PS: The 105 spur is 0.4 mod...

redbones

Those pics you saw are probably from the hobby show in Japan. That car is optioned out to the max and not the one you get in the kit. Check out the tamiya site for the kit. That is exactly what you are gonna get. The kit unfortunately comes with phillips screws. Screwing them in is a pain so I used a 3mm threader and predrilled the holes. The screws go in much easier, and you can tell when the screws are tight. But I highly recommend getting your own hex screw set. 3racing makes one for the IFS I think. Or you can get the ones that RCChamp sells. They come with the correct amount of blue alum. screws for the top of the chassis.

The car is awesome out of the box.

RangerWalker

Got the R today... assembled almost fully now, but there is few odd things here.

1.turnbuckles -one too long included(so i´m missing a shorter one)

2.Stabilizers, if i install them like on manual, they will be in contact(rubbing) with turnbuckles all the time.

3.I did not glued any parts yet, i only scuffed the diff assembly lightly, hope it is enough.

4.now i need to order more parts and this project is going to take long time...

94eg!

iTrader: (17)

So far, all the TRF cars I've built are exactly the same (even the 415MSX-MRE). I don't know if they feel it's okay to rub, but I move the ball ends away so the end-links no longer touch...

redbones

1. There is one long one included for the steering rod from the servo saver.
That means you got two of those long ones?

2. Yeah you need to move them so they don't rub. Also, on the front bar, you need to shave a little plastic off of the bar holder so it will clear. It was mentioned on the TA05 manual, but not here... wonder why.

3. Got the 3racing alum outdrives. scuffed it a little and used some loctite. will find out after it cures over tonight.

RangerWalker

No, only 1 long.(i just started installing the servo,and then i realized what the long one was)

So i got only 5 3x32mm ones instead of 6. -I just ordered 4 new ones.

Diffwise, i really dont understand what to do, this is my first ball diff car and first belt driven also.

I tightened the diffs allmost to the tightest settings -but loosened them a bit (they are suppose to turn ok, no 100% lock right? )

How will i know if the scuffing was enough/no glue needed?

And the belts feel quite loose -i installed them like the manual says. -is there any mm amount that they are suppose to be able to be pushed down?

And the most annoying thing on this build is the lack of turnbuckle tools that will NOT scratch the blue off them!

redbones

this kit is actually a little not "tamiya" imo. Shaving the chassis, prepping the outdrives, etc. I guess it can't help because they are retrofitting the 416 parts on.

The way to tighten the diffs is to get it a point where you can't slip the diff anymore. Follow the diagram on the manual for the proper way. You will most likely slip the diff ring and the outdrive first.(normally shouldn't do this, which makes it hard for beginners) Make sure you prep the outdrive, let it dry overnight (if you use any adhesives), then test. The diff should be smooth as butter. The conversion to 12 balls from 9 gives a better contact patch so you can make a super smooth diff that doesn't slip (based on my 416).

And the belts, if you are running like 23T motor, it should be ok. You can make them one notch tighter if you hear the belt skipping. It will be a nasty noise when it happens. Having the belt a little tight is ok on this car because the chassis will pitch more due to the lack of an upper deck. When this pitch goes past a certain point, (during braking) the belts will come really loose and skip.

Use a proper turnbuckle tool if you want to avoid messing the anodize up took much. I used a ballcup holder with a tamiya turnbuckle wrench, and it came out pretty clean.

TJ

Hi Guys,
I was wondering if you can tell me the parts and part numbers I need to make an orginal TA05 into IFS-TA05.

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

Almost done with the car...Killer man.Not for beginners...

TJ

Sorry guys should have looked at the thread before I started to type. Don't worry about answering the question.

redbones

Looking good!

but... I think you got the wrong bulkhead cover for the front... it should not have the shock tower mounts.
And the ball end for the steering knuckle is not the same L/R. should both be the inner one.