billb60

iTrader: (17)

Did you trim off one of the mounting ears as in instructions?

I use a Futaba 9551, and I cut down the kit's servo mounts so the servo could be moved back enough to mount the steering link on the front of servo saver.

Yes you can cut tub for clearance because it's in the instructions too. Bring the instructions with you just in case to prove it.

xniperliams

iTrader: (4)

Yes I trimmed off one of the mouting ears. I think this has to be done or the servo just won't fit in. But it still didn't fit in nicely like the Sanwa servo. It is kind of 1mm longer than the Sanwa one. Also the servo rotating gear seems a bit further to the left by a few millimeters, hence the need to trim the tub for clearance.

You are cutting down the servo mount so it becomes shorter, right? I would consider doing this. If the servo moves back further, I may not need to trim the tub anymore in the future because the tub gets wider further back.

But where exactly in the instructions does it say the tub can be cut for clearance? I couldn't find it.

But I am really interested to see if anyone with KO Propo servo having the same problem. Thanks for the suggestion.

DirtyRacer

iTrader: (5)

KO servo fits perfiectly in my cars.

xniperliams

iTrader: (4)

What model of KO Propo servo are you using?

dameetz

Any performance difference if I change my stock normal chassis and suspension arms to lightweight carbon composite chassis and short reversible arms? What other things should I buy along if I wanted to use the short reversible arms? Suspension block/bridges? CVD length? Uprights?

Thanks!

dameetz

Bump.

Anyone?

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

yes there will be a huge performance difference. the carbon tub is lighter and stiffer. short reversible arms will also affect handling. your car will behave differently.

dameetz

So do I need to change the suspension block/bridge? I m using 415 blocks at the moment. Also what length of CVD should I use?

billb60

iTrader: (17)

This article is more about how to convert to IFS but it gives the swing axle part numbers towards the end of article

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=384

Hatebreed

I have asked this before but havent got a good answer yet

what is the benefit in handling of having the IFS compared to the standard stand up shocks in the front? (exept that i can run lower bodies)

i bought a IFS-R but has only driven it with stand up shocks because that is what i have been doing all these years, but havent bothered to try the ifs, but now i`m a little corious about it

also, what rate does the tamiya #500 shockoil compare to? From what i understand it should be something like associated 40wt?

Markus

iTrader: (93)

I know that with the IFS setup, adding spacers on the rocker arms gives the effect of moving the top shock position outwards.

is there something to do so the opposite will happen?
what i'd like to do is (visualizing the stock TA05) lay the front shocks inwards to achieve more traction.

SKYFLAKES

need help!

im planning to buy an IFS or the TA05 ver 2.?

which is better?

is the TA05 capable to run competitively in 13.5T class. Ill be racing on a parking lot.

Thanks in advance!

Skitee

Go with the Ver.II it has a narrower tub and changed battery position and it comes standard with the IFS-R / 416 Pulleys, short reversible suspension arms and the TB-03 / 416 front and rear uprights.

SKYFLAKES

i notice that the ver II is pure stock, besides the shocks which part/s do i have or need to change to make the car competitive?

Skitee

Yes it is very stock but the older IFS kits were exactly the same only the R version had some bling in it.

You probably only need these hopups

TRF shocks
Rear carbon shock tower
Aluminium rocker arms
Aluminium steering arms