theEdge

iTrader: (1)

How about using RED Loctite only if ya gonna use them Alum outdrives to hold the diff rings together guys?

Of coz letting the parts cure before assembly.

Just a thought guys..

Any comments?

Peter_PaP

iTrader: (2)

Some new bodies.







I think i found my first shelf queen (the Eclipse)

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

So the Spur must remain 105T while the Pinion can be changed?

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

Any in SG who has done up their IFS-R and using for drifting? Wanna ask things easier.

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

So I can change the stock 105T to a different spur? 60T or 70T?

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

• Does tht mean IFS-R die die must use 105T spur?

• Lowest FDR according to the chart is Pinion 47T to reach 4.59:1.

• So with 47T, I'll have the fastest acceleration possible but a low top speed?

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

It comes with a 105T .6mod gear in the kit. You can change it to anything you want; 32, 48 or 64 pitch and any size that will fit. Those choices are up to you.

Depending on your motor a 4.59 FDR will give you slower acceleration but higher top speed and can burn out a motor by overheating it.

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

I went Taroda after work today. The guys there were pretty nice and spare parts quite comprehensive. Anyone here has assembled his TA05 IFS-R?


Wanted to assemble mine just now but after putting the motor mount to the chassis, the next step needs cement which I didn't buy. So I ended up doing the TRF damper shocks only. Sucks...

Somemore the 1st pg also indicates must cut 3 parts of the chassis to prevent the belt from hitting them. I don't have dremel.
Can don't cut away?

redbones

You can sand the outdrive and diff ring so they can grab on to each other. The pressure will prevent them from slipping. And yes, I highly recommend shaving that area that the manual says to. The belts do rub on that area slightly. If you don't have a dremel, just use a side cutter and xacto blade and be creative.

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

Sigh..Then I must go find sandpaper...So sand the outdrive & diff ring until what condition?

The parts that seemingly needs to be taken off seems pretty tough plastic. I think I will put the belts then see exactly where I need to take away. Anyine in SG can guide?

redbones

Don't sand so much that you warp the outdrives. get like 600grit paper and "scuff" the outdrives. For the diff ring, just do it like you normally sand one, but do it on both sides instead.

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

So after sanding both parts, I clean off the shavings and just attach them without using any super glue or cement? Most of the other forums' postings did not indicate putting any after sanding.

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

My 2 problems. Basically is where exactly to cut and how much to cut. And also whether or not to apply the rubber cement as according to the manual to the Diff plate and diff joint or just sand paper as recommended in many forums.

limbohz

iTrader: (26)

to convert the internal ratio of a ta05 ifs 2.25 to the ifs-R 2.055 (or 416 type), what do we need to do aside from replacing the:

center pulleys
diff, one way & spool pulleys
diff bearings
center plate

someone said we have to replace the belt as well?

would anyone have any info on this? also, the part number for the aforementioned items?

thanks in advance

housey

iTrader: (1)

hey guys, been out of the RC scene for about 18 months but now i really fancy picking up an IFS-R, but at the moment iv seen about 10 pics of it and they all look like they have different parts on them (alu bulkheads and rockers, graphite bulkheads and rockers etc etc) and iv seen ones without hex drive screws, do they really ship an R kit with crappy cross-head screws?

anyways i was just wondering if anyone knows exactly wots in the R kit when compared the standard kit, cheers guys