TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
#4982
Tech Initiate
Hi from France,
Santa's been nice to me, he brought me a TLR 22 SCT , which is my first serious car kit. Previous was a Tamiya plastic thing (Dark Impact).
I'm still finishing my build: i have to glue the tires (JConcept blue barcodes), i still need a .050 hex wrench (not so easy to find down here) to tighten the bodymounts and the little screw under the rear tranny.
I dropped an EZRUN 9T with a GM Racing 80A ESC in it with 19t.
I just gave it a little ride in my garage, w/o the body, just to see if everything is fine.
It seems like i have a really strong transmission noise when going gently forward (reverse too).
I've tried to loosen a bit the space between spur and pinion, i tightened the slipper a bit (this is my 1st slipper-fitted kit), but when i push fwd, it's like the car has too much slip.
Could my diff be too loose ?
Talking about the ball diff, would i get less maintenance with a gear diff ? (i'm not in a racing stuff at the moment).
Thanks
Santa's been nice to me, he brought me a TLR 22 SCT , which is my first serious car kit. Previous was a Tamiya plastic thing (Dark Impact).
I'm still finishing my build: i have to glue the tires (JConcept blue barcodes), i still need a .050 hex wrench (not so easy to find down here) to tighten the bodymounts and the little screw under the rear tranny.
I dropped an EZRUN 9T with a GM Racing 80A ESC in it with 19t.
I just gave it a little ride in my garage, w/o the body, just to see if everything is fine.
It seems like i have a really strong transmission noise when going gently forward (reverse too).
I've tried to loosen a bit the space between spur and pinion, i tightened the slipper a bit (this is my 1st slipper-fitted kit), but when i push fwd, it's like the car has too much slip.
Could my diff be too loose ?
Talking about the ball diff, would i get less maintenance with a gear diff ? (i'm not in a racing stuff at the moment).
Thanks
#4983
Question's for Hacker or Casper on the latest set-up.
Are the rear arms spaced forward or back?
Also to clarify on the 2 gold washers for the steering link. They go on the ball stud on the rack for the short link to the servo? Not the inner steering links, to the wheels, on the rack.
Are the rear arms spaced forward or back?
Also to clarify on the 2 gold washers for the steering link. They go on the ball stud on the rack for the short link to the servo? Not the inner steering links, to the wheels, on the rack.
#4984
Another question for the TLR team:
"When building any kit one often over looked area of the build is the torque applied to the screws, yet the importance of it cannot be overemphasized. Over torquing a screw in critical areas can reduce the chassis's ability to flex as designed and work as it should. It's my opinion from what I've seen over the years is most racers tend to over torque. In most applications the screw only needs to be snug, or just bottomed out.
Through experimentation we've found the the following areas of the TLR22 chassis to be critical to get correct as they have a dramatic affect on handling.
Any screw on the bottom of the chassis, including the battery brace and side pod screws.
Rear camber block screws under the rear shock tower.
Rear shock tower screws.
Shock mount nuts."
From: http://pittables.blogspot.com/2012/1...ew-torque.html
Does this hold any merit?
"When building any kit one often over looked area of the build is the torque applied to the screws, yet the importance of it cannot be overemphasized. Over torquing a screw in critical areas can reduce the chassis's ability to flex as designed and work as it should. It's my opinion from what I've seen over the years is most racers tend to over torque. In most applications the screw only needs to be snug, or just bottomed out.
Through experimentation we've found the the following areas of the TLR22 chassis to be critical to get correct as they have a dramatic affect on handling.
Any screw on the bottom of the chassis, including the battery brace and side pod screws.
Rear camber block screws under the rear shock tower.
Rear shock tower screws.
Shock mount nuts."
From: http://pittables.blogspot.com/2012/1...ew-torque.html
Does this hold any merit?
#4986
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
Question's for Hacker or Casper on the latest set-up.
Are the rear arms spaced forward or back?
Also to clarify on the 2 gold washers for the steering link. They go on the ball stud on the rack for the short link to the servo? Not the inner steering links, to the wheels, on the rack.
Are the rear arms spaced forward or back?
Also to clarify on the 2 gold washers for the steering link. They go on the ball stud on the rack for the short link to the servo? Not the inner steering links, to the wheels, on the rack.
The two washers go under the 4-40 ball stud that connects the short servo link to the rack. Basically we are making the short link more parallel to the rack.
Another question for the TLR team:
"When building any kit one often over looked area of the build is the torque applied to the screws, yet the importance of it cannot be overemphasized. Over torquing a screw in critical areas can reduce the chassis's ability to flex as designed and work as it should. It's my opinion from what I've seen over the years is most racers tend to over torque. In most applications the screw only needs to be snug, or just bottomed out.
Through experimentation we've found the the following areas of the TLR22 chassis to be critical to get correct as they have a dramatic affect on handling.
Any screw on the bottom of the chassis, including the battery brace and side pod screws.
Rear camber block screws under the rear shock tower.
Rear shock tower screws.
Shock mount nuts."
From: http://pittables.blogspot.com/2012/1...ew-torque.html
Does this hold any merit?
"When building any kit one often over looked area of the build is the torque applied to the screws, yet the importance of it cannot be overemphasized. Over torquing a screw in critical areas can reduce the chassis's ability to flex as designed and work as it should. It's my opinion from what I've seen over the years is most racers tend to over torque. In most applications the screw only needs to be snug, or just bottomed out.
Through experimentation we've found the the following areas of the TLR22 chassis to be critical to get correct as they have a dramatic affect on handling.
Any screw on the bottom of the chassis, including the battery brace and side pod screws.
Rear camber block screws under the rear shock tower.
Rear shock tower screws.
Shock mount nuts."
From: http://pittables.blogspot.com/2012/1...ew-torque.html
Does this hold any merit?
#4987
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Man..my car was brutally bad last night with the new set up....it was pretty good with Casper's clay set up..what the problem was to much chassis roll and zero rear bite..It seemed like it was missing..it got a bit better when I raised the ride height back to 29, but when I had it at 26 1/2 it was bad..
#4988
Tech Elite
iTrader: (60)
help me with rear motor set up. i got a losi TLR 22 SCT but did not receive the manual.
i have it some what figured out how to run rear motor. my question is what do i use to hold the rear block down that holds the hinge pins on place. on mid motor the 2 screws
screwed into the tranny case. i noticed the aluminum block does not have threads.
pictures or can you tell me what poart from the kit does this.
i have it some what figured out how to run rear motor. my question is what do i use to hold the rear block down that holds the hinge pins on place. on mid motor the 2 screws
screwed into the tranny case. i noticed the aluminum block does not have threads.
pictures or can you tell me what poart from the kit does this.
#4989
help me with rear motor set up. i got a losi TLR 22 SCT but did not receive the manual.
i have it some what figured out how to run rear motor. my question is what do i use to hold the rear block down that holds the hinge pins on place. on mid motor the 2 screws
screwed into the tranny case. i noticed the aluminum block does not have threads.
pictures or can you tell me what poart from the kit does this.
i have it some what figured out how to run rear motor. my question is what do i use to hold the rear block down that holds the hinge pins on place. on mid motor the 2 screws
screwed into the tranny case. i noticed the aluminum block does not have threads.
pictures or can you tell me what poart from the kit does this.
#4990
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
Man..my car was brutally bad last night with the new set up....it was pretty good with Casper's clay set up..what the problem was to much chassis roll and zero rear bite..It seemed like it was missing..it got a bit better when I raised the ride height back to 29, but when I had it at 26 1/2 it was bad..
#4991
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
Man..my car was brutally bad last night with the new set up....it was pretty good with Casper's clay set up..what the problem was to much chassis roll and zero rear bite..It seemed like it was missing..it got a bit better when I raised the ride height back to 29, but when I had it at 26 1/2 it was bad..
#4992
Tech Initiate
im putting my new kit together and only half of the ballcup ends would screw on is there a trick to get these on or should i buy some more?
#4995
finally had my diff give it up. tore it apart to find one of the thrust washers was disintegrated. internals actually looked ok, but i replaced everything anyway. went with the AE diff bolt, thrust washers, and diff nut/spring. hopefully it's bulletproof now.