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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

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TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)

Old 12-29-2012, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Are you using black or grey o-rings?
Using two grey o-rings.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:48 PM
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Hi from France,

Santa's been nice to me, he brought me a TLR 22 SCT , which is my first serious car kit. Previous was a Tamiya plastic thing (Dark Impact).

I'm still finishing my build: i have to glue the tires (JConcept blue barcodes), i still need a .050 hex wrench (not so easy to find down here) to tighten the bodymounts and the little screw under the rear tranny.

I dropped an EZRUN 9T with a GM Racing 80A ESC in it with 19t.

I just gave it a little ride in my garage, w/o the body, just to see if everything is fine.

It seems like i have a really strong transmission noise when going gently forward (reverse too).

I've tried to loosen a bit the space between spur and pinion, i tightened the slipper a bit (this is my 1st slipper-fitted kit), but when i push fwd, it's like the car has too much slip.

Could my diff be too loose ?

Talking about the ball diff, would i get less maintenance with a gear diff ? (i'm not in a racing stuff at the moment).

Thanks
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:38 PM
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Question's for Hacker or Casper on the latest set-up.

Are the rear arms spaced forward or back?

Also to clarify on the 2 gold washers for the steering link. They go on the ball stud on the rack for the short link to the servo? Not the inner steering links, to the wheels, on the rack.
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:43 PM
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Another question for the TLR team:

"When building any kit one often over looked area of the build is the torque applied to the screws, yet the importance of it cannot be overemphasized. Over torquing a screw in critical areas can reduce the chassis's ability to flex as designed and work as it should. It's my opinion from what I've seen over the years is most racers tend to over torque. In most applications the screw only needs to be snug, or just bottomed out.

Through experimentation we've found the the following areas of the TLR22 chassis to be critical to get correct as they have a dramatic affect on handling.
Any screw on the bottom of the chassis, including the battery brace and side pod screws.
Rear camber block screws under the rear shock tower.
Rear shock tower screws.
Shock mount nuts."

From: http://pittables.blogspot.com/2012/1...ew-torque.html

Does this hold any merit?
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:02 AM
  #4985  
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Originally Posted by Hackleman View Post
hacker, or any one else...

could you lead my in the direction of finding a set up sheet for a dry dusty low grip track? thanks,
First page post at the very bottom of the post where I put "setups" The Kit setup was designed for outdoor low grip situations. You should start there and tinker as needed.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by cornerspeed View Post
Question's for Hacker or Casper on the latest set-up.

Are the rear arms spaced forward or back?

Also to clarify on the 2 gold washers for the steering link. They go on the ball stud on the rack for the short link to the servo? Not the inner steering links, to the wheels, on the rack.
I have my inner arm spaced to move the arm forward (spacers in the rear)

The two washers go under the 4-40 ball stud that connects the short servo link to the rack. Basically we are making the short link more parallel to the rack.

Originally Posted by DanielC. View Post
Another question for the TLR team:

"When building any kit one often over looked area of the build is the torque applied to the screws, yet the importance of it cannot be overemphasized. Over torquing a screw in critical areas can reduce the chassis's ability to flex as designed and work as it should. It's my opinion from what I've seen over the years is most racers tend to over torque. In most applications the screw only needs to be snug, or just bottomed out.

Through experimentation we've found the the following areas of the TLR22 chassis to be critical to get correct as they have a dramatic affect on handling.
Any screw on the bottom of the chassis, including the battery brace and side pod screws.
Rear camber block screws under the rear shock tower.
Rear shock tower screws.
Shock mount nuts."

From: http://pittables.blogspot.com/2012/1...ew-torque.html

Does this hold any merit?
I have never put much thought into that other then making sure the screws are tight. The screws that go into the rear bulkhead are much tighter then others on the car and seem to require more effort to get in the other screws on the car but again I just make sure they are tight. Now tweak is a real thing as any onroad guy will tell you so the order that you torque them down can have some effect on keeping the chassis square and true but I can't say torque would have a huge effect on the car assuming all the screws are tight. If you leave some loose this can add additional chassis flex which you may want or not want.
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:06 PM
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Man..my car was brutally bad last night with the new set up....it was pretty good with Casper's clay set up..what the problem was to much chassis roll and zero rear bite..It seemed like it was missing..it got a bit better when I raised the ride height back to 29, but when I had it at 26 1/2 it was bad..
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:49 PM
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help me with rear motor set up. i got a losi TLR 22 SCT but did not receive the manual.
i have it some what figured out how to run rear motor. my question is what do i use to hold the rear block down that holds the hinge pins on place. on mid motor the 2 screws
screwed into the tranny case. i noticed the aluminum block does not have threads.

pictures or can you tell me what poart from the kit does this.
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Graphite07 View Post
help me with rear motor set up. i got a losi TLR 22 SCT but did not receive the manual.
i have it some what figured out how to run rear motor. my question is what do i use to hold the rear block down that holds the hinge pins on place. on mid motor the 2 screws
screwed into the tranny case. i noticed the aluminum block does not have threads.

pictures or can you tell me what poart from the kit does this.
You can download the manual on the tlr website.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Oasis View Post
Man..my car was brutally bad last night with the new set up....it was pretty good with Casper's clay set up..what the problem was to much chassis roll and zero rear bite..It seemed like it was missing..it got a bit better when I raised the ride height back to 29, but when I had it at 26 1/2 it was bad..
Did you remove the limiters AND turn the shock ends out 3 turns? I tried the setup this past weekend and it worked great on an indoor clay track.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Oasis View Post
Man..my car was brutally bad last night with the new set up....it was pretty good with Casper's clay set up..what the problem was to much chassis roll and zero rear bite..It seemed like it was missing..it got a bit better when I raised the ride height back to 29, but when I had it at 26 1/2 it was bad..
Interesting. What tires and how would you describe the traction. Like I said we only tested this new setup at OCRC. Ryan went to another track this weekend and I really did not hear much on how he liked the truck there yet. We appreciate all feed back good and bad and one setup will not work in all conditions!
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:23 PM
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im putting my new kit together and only half of the ballcup ends would screw on is there a trick to get these on or should i buy some more?
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:35 PM
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use a body reamer and barely ream them. Should go in good after that
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:58 PM
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chapstix or grease the threads first
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:01 PM
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finally had my diff give it up. tore it apart to find one of the thrust washers was disintegrated. internals actually looked ok, but i replaced everything anyway. went with the AE diff bolt, thrust washers, and diff nut/spring. hopefully it's bulletproof now.
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