Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Can someone give me a better explanation of measuring and setting the loaded droop setting on this car. I believe unloaded droop is measured without the motor, and rear axle in place (correct?). But when it comes to the loaded, man I'm lost. What methods do some of you use? Do you have to use droop blocks? Is there another way top do it? Anyone care to share the knowledge?

Thanks

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

How are you guys setting dropp in your front ends? Is that leaving the spring a little loose on the kingpin by not tightenting it up until it touches? and isn't .5" (1/2") a little much?

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

I think what you are looking for is the pod sag. For droop I first measure my up travel by placing my car on blocks and measuring the my rear pod at the rear of the bottom plate. It sounds like the value you are looking for is achieved by measuring the ride height at the middle of the chassis and comparing it to the front & rear ride heights. For example if your ride height is set to 3.5mm fr/re but your car is 3.25mm in the middle you would have .25mm sag, that I have heard some refer to as loaded droop.

Mark

SRW141

iTrader: (4)

Front droop is .5 mm is what he talking about.

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

.5mm should be in the ballpark, I tend to prefer a bit less up travel and usually run around .25mm.

Mark

SRW141

iTrader: (4)

I'm running the .45 springs right now and have a little preload on them. When I was running the .50 I had about .25mm up travel also.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

in response to the fellow who asked about setting his side springs.....
if you don't have a tweakboard, then it's still not hard to get pretty close with the side springs. I suggest you:
*remove all wheels and tires and pull out the rear axle
*sit the fully assembled car (less wheels) on a flat surface so chassis plate and lower pod plate are both laying flat on the surface
*back off on both side spring adjusters until you can see clearance between the bottom of both springs and the top surface of the pod's graphite lower plate
*slowly and gently turn in on one side spring's adjuster while watching the bottom of that spring and keep turning the adjuster in until the bottom of the spring JUST BARELY rests on the gaphite of the pod plate. Use caution to not compress the spring. It should just lightly touch. That setting will be 0 preload.
*repeat the same procedure on other side spring to achieve 0 preload on that one too (important that the car remains on the flat surface while doing this). this will achieve 0 preload on both springs and the chassis will tweak flat.
*as baseline, turn each side spring adjuster in equally 1/4 turn (easy to judge by looking at the allen wrench's handle or even the flats on a plain allen key)

this will be a very close to perfect starting setup (assuming you've done a good job of laying out your electronics so they are reasonably even and balanced). I've done this on many guy's cars as a basic starting point and then after fitting the axle and wheels, and putting their cars on my very sensitive tweakboard........the settings are very near spot on.

good luck and happy motoring

Kane-o

iTrader: (12)

http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

This site has some amazing tips on how to set-up your car and get rid of any tweak that may be present.....check it out and it will help you with setting up those side springs right.

IMTK422

What does putting different types of oils on the kingpins do, and how much do you put on?

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Hey guys,
I used to be a firm believer of the t-bar cars. I ran the gen-x for 2 weeks then at the Holloween Classic. I just want to share something I found out, I hope this hasn't been posted b4, I Notice I had to basically mount the entire font end b4 I mounted the rear. I did it rear first and the car was inconsistant. The front may have put a slight twist in the chassis that bound the links.
My next thing was to make up a tweek station that used 2 small gram scales. I would take the tubes off and check the tweek using the scales. 1 thing I noticed, I could back the springs off, and as soon as a spring touched you could see it on the scale. I would then be able to set both springs so they just touch the chassis, then make equal adjustments from there.
The car was money every time! I ran back to back compairisons between the gen-x and t-force and ran 8 seconds quicker with the gen-x.
Just my 2 cents..
Wayne

wallyedmonds

the thicker the oil the quicker the reaction.
i use 50000 but some use nothing
its all in what you want.

wallyedmonds

setup and setting up is key to success

sg1

iTrader: (79)

So true wally. I used 3000 wt. on my kingpins. I like the more responsiveness feel. I also used 50mm springs with maybe .005" play.
Wayne

protc3

iTrader: (13)

What do you know wayne!! How ya been bro?

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Hey Jay,
I know enough to get me in trouble!! lol.. How have you been?
Wayne