nercracer

I personally prefer the 4000kv tekin 4-pole with the rx8. it runs cool, and it produces tons of power. You would need a very large track to fully utilize the 4600kv.

teknic

iTrader: (18)

My new motor came in today so I got to try out my new electronics setup.

Tekin RX8, Tenshock SC411 4600kv and Nano-Tech.

Don't really know what to say other than wow...this setup blows my Novak Havoc Pro / 4.5 setup out of the water! With my old setup there would be certain parts of the track I would have to take the perfect line on if I wanted to land on the downside of one of the jumps and now I'm having to let off the throttle so I don't clear the entire landing.

Littlejohn Dsgn

iTrader: (47)

O some of the tracks I run on are huge ... with the 4.5 there was only 2 sections you pulled off the trigger Way more WOT then anything else. And when the straight away is 150-200ft you need every bit of speed.

Littlejohn Dsgn

iTrader: (47)

I was looking inot the Tenshock 4600 you would not happen to know if its ROAR approved would you.

teknic

iTrader: (18)

Not sure, I only club race so I didn't really pay attention.

Littlejohn Dsgn

iTrader: (47)

Yea I want to attend Region 11 regionals so I need to make sure its ROAR approved not sure why in a open type class it matteres. I can see on lipos it might be a saftey thing but motors come on.

teknic

iTrader: (18)

Yeah, I agree it seems like dirty politics to me . If you don't line our pockets we won't vote for your bill! lol

I'm very happy with the motor for the price so far. Like all the "china" stuff I buy though there's always that worry about how long it will last, but time will tell.

As it stands I got my RX8 (used) and Tenshock motor for $200 so I'm happy about it

LosiMadMan

iTrader: (2)

So this may be the problem. The timing screen does not load in The Vegas software. When I click on it it is blank. I have to work tonight but I will try again in the morning. I have the latest software and updates applied to the speed control.

myl3s91

iTrader: (1)

Today i rebuilt my center and rear diff, I sealed them with rtv sealant and let it dry over night. After assembling everything today they are so smooth! Success finally! Lol. Waiting for the sealant to cure on the front diff, then ill put it back together and my truck will be ready to go!! For everyone debating on doing this, use RTV sealant. Now i CANT WAIT for my bce chassis!!!!!!!!!!!

adubaz7

iTrader: (31)

Honestly a glitch buster may or may not work I love the MMP with my 4600 but I will never run a 4wd vehicle with a MMP without a Castle 10 amp BEC ever again. The Bec fixes all issues you will have ever encountered with the MMP and if there was room inside the case Castle would include it but there is not so it is sold seperate.
I dont think there is a better ESC to run on a loose track than the MMP it can be set up to be nice and soft on the bottom and ultra smooth as the power comes in you will love it.

AgroAMG

iTrader: (3)

I know as soon as I disassemble my differentials I'll have tons more knowledge. I think the exploded view will help with that. However, I havent done it YET but plan on it. When you are re-assembling do you put a little bit of RTV on the blue gasket as pictured in this image? Just a thin later applied around, then the diff cases tightened up? I wonder if that makes the gasket usable in the future the next time you take apart the diff?

Even having to use rtv sealant seems wrong. the purpose of the gasket is to seal it. i wonder if this is a common problem if Horizon is looking at this and possibly some changes. I also saw double gaskets, seems the wrong long term fix too.

myl3s91

iTrader: (1)

I did NOT use any rtv sealand on the blue gasket. You use the sealant on the metal inserts that sit in the hex on the plastic housing. The o-ring and washer are supposed to be the seal but for some people it manages to leak out, ME being one of those people. Make sure when doing this your inserts are fully seated otherwise your diff will not be smooth or it may even lock. Which was my first mistake using CA glue. On my first diff i had to buy a whole new housing but for the other 2 i re used everything.. I sealed every diff even although the center diff was the only one i noticed leaking. I would recommend this step if you are switching out your grease for fluid.

AgroAMG

iTrader: (3)

Okay, yeah, I am not looking at the exploded view, but as I disassemble my diff's I'm sure I'll realize what you mean. I have RTV sealant, I'll use it anyhow just to be sure. Gonna pick up some more acetone on the way home and some electronic motor cleaner spray as I dont know how difficult it may be to get rid of the losi grease.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Put the esc into C1 or C2, hit apply, go to the "timing" tab.

10sctrel0v3r

iTrader: (1)

seems like alot of people are having problems with their diffs leaking...i see some of you are RTVing your inserts in. im unsure if it cures hard or rubbery but i know it would seal good but im not sure on how well it would keep the inserts from popping back in. i have glued mine in once about 6 months ago and havent had to do it again. i highly recomend using the team associated green slim on the outdrives befor you slide them in and then on the o-rings and both sides of the gasket. tighten everything up and it should be perfect. also make sure the screw holes are not stripped out on your diff case or it will also not seal properly.