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Old 08-15-2009, 06:08 PM
  #631  
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET
nice !
Very!!
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tjompa
Sparx questions is very important to get solved soon cause i am dealing with the exact same issues. No tweak, no bad savers and so on, the material is flawless but it has to be the missing weight of a nimh battery pack that causes this instability in "high" speeds. If somebody has some more ideas please drop them here.
The car is too stiff front to back by design
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:45 PM
  #633  
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Originally Posted by tjompa
I have maximal downforce on the wing and it doesnt work eiter, so does sparx.
But i cant call theese wings a wing cause the downforce that they delivers are close to zero.
type in downforce in search in the thread 1/10 scale F1's. The japanese article there shows the actual downforce and drag these cars make with different wings, bodies etc.
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:51 PM
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Anybody have some setup tips for this bad boy? Im runnning the box stock setup, silvercan motor on a parking lot track that is med-hi bite, and this thing plowwwwwssss like a dump truck. Does anyone else run softer front springs, or does anyone make some softer front tires? I just dont have any corner speed in the twisties compared to a 103.

Inzane, your nosecone is on upside down I did the same thing when I built the car, and had to look for a minute to figure out why the front body post didnt reach.
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:01 AM
  #635  
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Hey guys , for those of you attending or planning to attend the Ultimate F1 Series Race day, please check out the website :

http://www.charleslightfoot.com/UF1SD.html

Race location has been moved to the TAMIYA track...
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Old 08-16-2009, 02:11 AM
  #636  
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Thanx geeunit1014 - I'm sure this will make today's body mounting a lot easier

Here are some closer pics of the wiring.


I built a "channel" for the ESC wires (sensor cable & ABC-wires) with two 0.5mm carbon plates and two servo posts. I also drilled a 12mm hole in the pivot post and dremeled away some plastic on the motor mount/friction plate stay.



The channel seen from above



The wires run through the pivot pod and the friction plate stay



Pic of the 45º angled servo.

Last edited by InZane; 08-16-2009 at 03:00 AM. Reason: last sentence - found out how to make a degree symbol :D
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Old 08-16-2009, 07:56 AM
  #637  
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014
Anybody have some setup tips for this bad boy? Im runnning the box stock setup, silvercan motor on a parking lot track that is med-hi bite, and this thing plowwwwwssss like a dump truck. Does anyone else run softer front springs, or does anyone make some softer front tires? I just dont have any corner speed in the twisties compared to a 103.

Inzane, your nosecone is on upside down I did the same thing when I built the car, and had to look for a minute to figure out why the front body post didnt reach.
If you can find them, I'd mount rear donuts on the front and cut them down on a truer. The stock fronts are harder than the rears, and they seem to blow out traction additive pretty easy. Most of the time my car steers well, but them starts pushing as the additive goes away.
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:50 AM
  #638  
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Originally Posted by robk
The car is too stiff front to back by design
i tend to agree, my car is very stable around corners and at low speed but as soon as you get faster it's very unstable and almost undrivable on the straights. Anyone got an ideas on how to cure it???
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by robk
If you can find them, I'd mount rear donuts on the front and cut them down on a truer. The stock fronts are harder than the rears, and they seem to blow out traction additive pretty easy. Most of the time my car steers well, but them starts pushing as the additive goes away.
Thanks, I think that should work well. My car killed my fronts yesterday, because they were sliding so much, but the rears had almost no wear. Whos got donuts in stock??


For the people with the undriveable cars, you may want to put some negative steering exponential in your radio. If you have a fast servo, with no expo the car is hyper-responsive to wheel inputs. The expo will soften the curve around center, and should help you out.
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:00 PM
  #640  
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Originally Posted by tjompa
I have maximal downforce on the wing and it doesnt work eiter, so does sparx.
But i cant call theese wings a wing cause the downforce that they delivers are close to zero.
That's the thing. If you have maximum downforce, it is @ it's max on the straight and may be slightly lifting you front tires enough to cause a slight loss of steering @ high speeds, @ lower speeds the downforce evens out which may be why you feel hooked up in the infield. Also don't underestimate the aero effects on these cars, because of their light weight and high speeds the wings are a little more effective than you may believe. Some are more effective than others but they all generate a good amount of downforce.
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:06 PM
  #641  
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Originally Posted by cheROK1212
That's the thing. If you have maximum downforce, it is @ it's max on the straight and may be slightly lifting you front tires enough to cause a slight loss of steering @ high speeds, @ lower speeds the downforce evens out which may be why you feel hooked up in the infield. Also don't underestimate the aero effects on these cars, because of their light weight and high speeds the wings are a little more effective than you may believe. Some are more effective than others but they all generate a good amount of downforce.
Thanks for your answers.
I am mostly into 235mm pancars so i just laughed at this wing but maybe it works, just needs to replace it cause it was not of a good quality.
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:13 PM
  #642  
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Originally Posted by InZane
Thanx geeunit1014 - I'm sure this will make today's body mounting a lot easier

Here are some closer pics of the wiring.


I built a "channel" for the ESC wires (sensor cable & ABC-wires) with two 0.5mm carbon plates and two servo posts. I also drilled a 12mm hole in the pivot post and dremeled away some plastic on the motor mount/friction plate stay.



The channel seen from above



The wires run through the pivot pod and the friction plate stay



Pic of the 45º angled servo.
nice again !
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Old 08-16-2009, 02:25 PM
  #643  
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Originally Posted by InZane
Mounted the electronics today. Now everything is almost complete. I'm still waiting for blue aluminum body postsand o-rings for the Lipos. First tests will be Thursday next week if weather is OK.







very cool!
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Old 08-16-2009, 02:26 PM
  #644  
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any one tried mounting a fan or heat sink on the motor?

also wondering if there was any news on possible rubber tires for the f104....
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Old 08-16-2009, 09:47 PM
  #645  
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I'm having the same issues as a few ppl above, where at low speed the car is sweet but when I hit full throttle the car just spins and if i brake the car spins again. Has anyone got a setup that will get rid of this? Is it a weight issue as I am running li-po with the Hobbywing 35 amp speedy and 3000kv motor, but may move onto a 17.5 brushless setup? Can different tyres help, solve this? Or could it be a diff issue?

For those who have tried different compound tyres whats the best combo so far? And is it worth while to use tyre compound on the front and rears?
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