Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Yes same clutch bell, 2 speed and gears ......

Herrsavage

Thanks.. The X3 GT looks awfully fast in the youtube video of the guy with the RTR running up and down his street. Says it's a stock Force 28.. I need to get a 28 in my DM-1 I guess..

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

Hey Guys, looking for a good lipo receiver pack. Something high capacity to run HV 7.4 servos.

Jimmy Lauri

iTrader: (2)

Photocycler...this is the Lipo I use for my X3 and Sabre X3. Its from Amain. A ProTek#PTK-LP-RX2300-L-2S. 7.4V 2 cell 2300mAh RX8C receiver battery. No probs with it. I always balance charge @ a low amp setting (1Amp).

Evo 13

iTrader: (2)

Personally, I would steer clear from Protek, I had 3 of them die within the first few runs. I had much better luck with their life packs. Just my take.

T-Hawk

iTrader: (2)

LRP 2500. Have them in all my cars

T-Hawk

iTrader: (2)

Is there any plans for an aluminum 2 speed holder and some more spring options?

technazi

2.4mm silverish springs are on their way (so I've been told). Stock springs are 2.3mm and black.

What are you referring to when you say the 2-speed holder? Second gear housing is aluminum and so is the first gear mount. Are you wanting the center layshaft to be aluminum?

trinitronman

Welp. After a lot of tuning and messing around using 30% nitro, I was about to get a few solid runs in the 66mph range. Had the front left tire blow out and my baby went tumbling down the street. Ordered a set of Sweeps GT treaded / belted tires with the full foams. I pulled the the engine and took it apart and it looks like it's holding up very well. I'll try to get out this weekend and throw up more videos. I'm liking this car more and more each day.

Anyone know what parts to order to get a rear brake installed on this car? The front brake works, but it fades quickly and becomes utterly useless until it cools substantially.

trinitronman

It's bone stock.. Running on 30% nitro with added oil. I've actually had good luck with the two ofna .28 engines i've had. I now have slightly over 2 gallons of fuel through this one with no issues. I'm still running the same plug as well!

T-Hawk

iTrader: (2)

The plastic uprights need to be aluminum.

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

Hey Guys, anyone who has installed the larger 150 cc tank - what did you do to mount it? With only one post being affixed to the tank, assuming I have to make my own post somehow?

Herrsavage

Looks fast as hell.. You've got a good tune on it. Which goes to show - it's not just the engine - but the owner who determines how well an engine runs.

I'm really torn on what direction to go in engine-wise for the DM-1 - always have been(had another one for a few years, but sold it..) I have numerous buggy 21's - including two RB Fire 11's(which are about as powerful as a .21 can get..), but have doubts that a .21 can push the gearing.. I've mostly run a Mach 427, but it's a bit old and worn out. I can't justify spending on a new .28 right now - not when I have 5-6 spare .21's laying around.. Maybe a trade or something.. I'd also prefer to not use a starter box if possible.. Switching back and forth with the buggy on my second box is a pain.. So yeah, stuck on engines.. My DM-1 is the 1:7 one too, so heavier than the X3 GT..

What other parts does the X3 GT share with the DM-1 btw? Sorry if that's been asked before...

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

If you use the same tank as used in the DM1, the chassis has all the holes. Go to IGT Hobbies site and look at option parts for DM1 or X3. I used straight posts from the DM1.

technazi

Why do the plastic uprights need to be aluminum? I've run the stock uprights, added a second rear brake on the back side, and never had any problems with stripping a gear. Why add weight and heat when the stock part works fine?