Team Associated TC5
#5449
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
FYI
thanks guys for all the info that u have poured into the thread. I have read most of the pages. I just got my car a month ago & tried alot of the set ups. & It wasnt until M8 just posted his set up...I found that was the EXACT same set up i ran yesterday & came in 4th...should of been better but u know that dam driver error...lmaooo Thanks again & I'll keep reading. Race on
#5450
hello fellow tc5 owners
my car has been trippin out as of late. it would spin out left, but would be fine going right.
list of things i checked already
1. bearings
2. tweak
3. height/droop
4. hinge pin
5. no binding when spring/shock is removed
someone said to check out the ballcups on the hubs.
any other ideas from the tc5 pros?
thanks and happy belated thanksgiving
my car has been trippin out as of late. it would spin out left, but would be fine going right.
list of things i checked already
1. bearings
2. tweak
3. height/droop
4. hinge pin
5. no binding when spring/shock is removed
someone said to check out the ballcups on the hubs.
any other ideas from the tc5 pros?
thanks and happy belated thanksgiving
#5451
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Make sure if you have aluminum diffs the blades are moving freely in the diff slot, of if you have plastic diffs, make shure the outdrives are ok, no notches in the slot.
Does the body or chassis show any tire traction goo pick up or obvious signs of track contact? Are the wheels touching the inside of the body on one side or the other?
Shocks should all be the same length/longer than the travel of your droop setting.
Check the springs as well. Sometimes you can get one way out of whack on length or rating. I had a set of blue springs like that, bought a new pair and it was fine.
You can also set the car on the edge of a setup board, 2 front wheels on and 2 rear wheels off, (or vice versa), middle of the chassis touching the edge. There are small center holes on each end of the car to put an xacto or pen into to lift the car. Lifting the car up will push the 2 wheels into the travel, and you will be able to see if one side is softer. Letting the end down you will see if one wheel lifts off of the surface before the other. The center of the chassis should be always touching the edge of the board, it is the fulcrum.
You can lift the end of the car past where the center of the chassis lifts off of the board to see what side of the chassis lands first, that will also tell you which side is soft and needs to have the spring collar turned down. Try to turn one collar down and the opposite up in equal amounts to reduce the amount of change on one shock.
Basically, you do a see-saw motion with your car to see the suspension work. Sometimes having all 4 wheels involved makes things hard to see, but isolating 2 wheels helps to make things clearer. Even with setup tools and gauges, this can reveal problems that might be too subtle to detect otherwise.
Credit to Bob Stellflue of AE for showing me this.
You may want to remove the top deck just to see if the car will come back. Tighten the topdeck with the help of a friend on a flat surface.
You may want to take everything off of the chassis to make sure the chassis is still flat. It should have very little movement when on a flat surface. IF you tap the corners and it moves a lot, your chassis may be tweaked or have taken a bad hit. A small clicking when you tap the chassis is normal, but if there is obvious movement it may be bad.
Does the body or chassis show any tire traction goo pick up or obvious signs of track contact? Are the wheels touching the inside of the body on one side or the other?
Shocks should all be the same length/longer than the travel of your droop setting.
Check the springs as well. Sometimes you can get one way out of whack on length or rating. I had a set of blue springs like that, bought a new pair and it was fine.
You can also set the car on the edge of a setup board, 2 front wheels on and 2 rear wheels off, (or vice versa), middle of the chassis touching the edge. There are small center holes on each end of the car to put an xacto or pen into to lift the car. Lifting the car up will push the 2 wheels into the travel, and you will be able to see if one side is softer. Letting the end down you will see if one wheel lifts off of the surface before the other. The center of the chassis should be always touching the edge of the board, it is the fulcrum.
You can lift the end of the car past where the center of the chassis lifts off of the board to see what side of the chassis lands first, that will also tell you which side is soft and needs to have the spring collar turned down. Try to turn one collar down and the opposite up in equal amounts to reduce the amount of change on one shock.
Basically, you do a see-saw motion with your car to see the suspension work. Sometimes having all 4 wheels involved makes things hard to see, but isolating 2 wheels helps to make things clearer. Even with setup tools and gauges, this can reveal problems that might be too subtle to detect otherwise.
Credit to Bob Stellflue of AE for showing me this.
You may want to remove the top deck just to see if the car will come back. Tighten the topdeck with the help of a friend on a flat surface.
You may want to take everything off of the chassis to make sure the chassis is still flat. It should have very little movement when on a flat surface. IF you tap the corners and it moves a lot, your chassis may be tweaked or have taken a bad hit. A small clicking when you tap the chassis is normal, but if there is obvious movement it may be bad.
#5452
wow thank you for that elaborate dissertation. you make valid suggestions that i will highly consider and try. i will work on the car after i watch this episode of Perfect Strangers. i have 18mins left.
balky for president
balky for president
#5453
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
hello fellow tc5 owners
my car has been trippin out as of late. it would spin out left, but would be fine going right.
list of things i checked already
1. bearings
2. tweak
3. height/droop
4. hinge pin
5. no binding when spring/shock is removed
someone said to check out the ballcups on the hubs.
any other ideas from the tc5 pros?
thanks and happy belated thanksgiving
my car has been trippin out as of late. it would spin out left, but would be fine going right.
list of things i checked already
1. bearings
2. tweak
3. height/droop
4. hinge pin
5. no binding when spring/shock is removed
someone said to check out the ballcups on the hubs.
any other ideas from the tc5 pros?
thanks and happy belated thanksgiving
#5454
hello fellow tc5 owners
my car has been trippin out as of late. it would spin out left, but would be fine going right.
list of things i checked already
1. bearings
2. tweak
3. height/droop
4. hinge pin
5. no binding when spring/shock is removed
someone said to check out the ballcups on the hubs.
any other ideas from the tc5 pros?
thanks and happy belated thanksgiving
my car has been trippin out as of late. it would spin out left, but would be fine going right.
list of things i checked already
1. bearings
2. tweak
3. height/droop
4. hinge pin
5. no binding when spring/shock is removed
someone said to check out the ballcups on the hubs.
any other ideas from the tc5 pros?
thanks and happy belated thanksgiving
#5455
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
hello fellow tc5 owners
my car has been trippin out as of late. it would spin out left, but would be fine going right.
list of things i checked already
1. bearings
2. tweak
3. height/droop
4. hinge pin
5. no binding when spring/shock is removed
someone said to check out the ballcups on the hubs.
any other ideas from the tc5 pros?
thanks and happy belated thanksgiving
my car has been trippin out as of late. it would spin out left, but would be fine going right.
list of things i checked already
1. bearings
2. tweak
3. height/droop
4. hinge pin
5. no binding when spring/shock is removed
someone said to check out the ballcups on the hubs.
any other ideas from the tc5 pros?
thanks and happy belated thanksgiving
All tires do come unglued from time to time. Preventive maintenance is required on tires aswell, and remember ROTATE!
Last edited by m8commando; 03-04-2008 at 06:36 PM.
#5456
anybody know what gears to use to get the proper 3.5 fdr and lower required for a 17.5 BL that fits in the car? i tried a 60/35 (48p) and it didnt fit (64p would be prefered, just tried 48 as its all the lhs had)
#5459
thank you for the abundance of replies. the tc5 guys are great and are very informative individuals.
i fixed the problem!
it is even on both sides now. cheers.
i fixed the problem!
it is even on both sides now. cheers.
#5460