Team Losi JRXS Type-R
Tech Elite
iTrader: (118)
How about sharing a setup?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Tech Apprentice
I'm lucky that my brother also has the losi. He can run 41's for stock, and I can run 42's for mod. That way they get used.
I thought I might post up something I was just playing with. Just rebuilding my diffs and noticed that the spring doesn't seem to sit very flat. I tried changing it out to a TC5 spring that I had on hand but ran into a problem with it being to small to fit the diff tube. So flipped the thrust and spring around and WOW! Diff was so much smoother than before! I rebuilt another diff and tried it with the losi and TC5 springs configured in the same way but the TC5 spring is soooooooo much better. Might be worth playing with guys...
Pics below.
I thought I might post up something I was just playing with. Just rebuilding my diffs and noticed that the spring doesn't seem to sit very flat. I tried changing it out to a TC5 spring that I had on hand but ran into a problem with it being to small to fit the diff tube. So flipped the thrust and spring around and WOW! Diff was so much smoother than before! I rebuilt another diff and tried it with the losi and TC5 springs configured in the same way but the TC5 spring is soooooooo much better. Might be worth playing with guys...
Pics below.
ciao ciao
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
Hey guys ,I just got a Type-R used to run some 17.5 rubber asphalt. As I'm rebuilding it, I noticed that the rear arms are adding a positive castor of about 2 or 3 degs. to the rear hubs . This doesn't seem normal. Are the arms warped? I guess what I'm trying to say is the inner and outer hinge pins of the arm are not parallel .
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
Nice Job Steve. I see Jim did well is WGT also Congrats!!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
If you meant to say toe instead of caster......the rear outer pivot blocks come in three flavors, all interchangeable with the front outer pivot blocks, 0/1/2 degrees. However, the holes in the rear of the chassis add another degree of toe at the arm. So as an example, if you used 0'hubs with the 0'rear pivot block, you'd still have 1' of rear toe in. Hope that helps.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
Thanks Greg, I shortly after posting the question , edited it . I figured people would think I was talking about the toe. I fully understand the mechanics of the toe system. I'm strickly talking about the rear arm .The inner and outer hinge pins of the arm itself are not parallel . So much that it's leaning the rear hubs foward ,like foward or positive caster. The arms are EA3. I've never seen an arm that the inner and outer hinge pins are not parallel. It looks like a cooling problem after molding maybe .
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
Hey guys ,I just got a Type-R used to run some 17.5 rubber asphalt. As I'm rebuilding it, I noticed that the rear arms are adding a positive castor of about 2 or 3 degs. to the rear hubs . This doesn't seem normal. Are the arms warped? I guess what I'm trying to say is the inner and outer hinge pins of the arm are not parallel .
If you meant to say toe instead of caster......the rear outer pivot blocks come in three flavors, all interchangeable with the front outer pivot blocks, 0/1/2 degrees. However, the holes in the rear of the chassis add another degree of toe at the arm. So as an example, if you used 0'hubs with the 0'rear pivot block, you'd still have 1' of rear toe in. Hope that helps.
He saying the arms are warped, adding some castor.
it is common problem for a 1/8th off road arms to be mingled after a season or two, but could be happend on any vehichle that runs on droop screws to put a hold on springs
I m going to check mine today, IMO arms should be perfectly flat on a setup board
He saying the arms are warped, adding some castor.
it is common problem for a 1/8th off road arms to be mingled after a season or two, but could be happend on any vehichle that runs on droop screws to put a hold on springs
I m going to check mine today, IMO arms should be perfectly flat on a setup board
it is common problem for a 1/8th off road arms to be mingled after a season or two, but could be happend on any vehichle that runs on droop screws to put a hold on springs
I m going to check mine today, IMO arms should be perfectly flat on a setup board
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
It sounds like an interesting problem but... if all it is doing is giving your rear end "castor", then what does it matter? Castor only has an effect on the front wheels because they turn. If the wheels don't turn, then the camber will not change and the castor becomes pointless.
Whatever the case I am looking at my chassis which I just happen to have in pieces in front of me. The inner and outer hinge pins are parallel on mine. If its not on your then I suggest new arms.
Whatever the case I am looking at my chassis which I just happen to have in pieces in front of me. The inner and outer hinge pins are parallel on mine. If its not on your then I suggest new arms.
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
It sounds like an interesting problem but... if all it is doing is giving your rear end "castor", then what does it matter? Castor only has an effect on the front wheels because they turn. If the wheels don't turn, then the camber will not change and the castor becomes pointless.
Whatever the case I am looking at my chassis which I just happen to have in pieces in front of me. The inner and outer hinge pins are parallel on mine. If its not on your then I suggest new arms.
Whatever the case I am looking at my chassis which I just happen to have in pieces in front of me. The inner and outer hinge pins are parallel on mine. If its not on your then I suggest new arms.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
hmm... i've checked all of my rear arms, and they are all flat. Got one with a slight twist in it, but it was used most of last season.