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Old 01-11-2010, 01:53 PM
  #11281  
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Originally Posted by steve eaves
I just ran the Novak race,car was very good,iqualified 2nd in 17.5 a main,had some issues and ended up 5th overall,Jim piersol car was also very fast i believe he ended up 2nd,car was just a little tight during the mains but still had a blast.

How about sharing a setup?
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:27 PM
  #11282  
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Originally Posted by Jerry P
Hey guy's i'm looking for an RCGT setup for a Type R. Is there a good base setup out there?

Thanks
Jerry
Use Fairtrace's rubber setup go back one page and click the petitrc link.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:42 PM
  #11283  
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Originally Posted by YmeBP
Use Fairtrace's rubber setup go back one page and click the petitrc link.
Jerry, do you need a carpet setup or asphalt?
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:30 AM
  #11284  
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire
I'm lucky that my brother also has the losi. He can run 41's for stock, and I can run 42's for mod. That way they get used.

I thought I might post up something I was just playing with. Just rebuilding my diffs and noticed that the spring doesn't seem to sit very flat. I tried changing it out to a TC5 spring that I had on hand but ran into a problem with it being to small to fit the diff tube. So flipped the thrust and spring around and WOW! Diff was so much smoother than before! I rebuilt another diff and tried it with the losi and TC5 springs configured in the same way but the TC5 spring is soooooooo much better. Might be worth playing with guys...

Pics below.
Try cone washer.........
ciao ciao
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:20 AM
  #11285  
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe
Jerry, do you need a carpet setup or asphalt?
setup for horsham, I already told him to start with your rubber setup
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:16 AM
  #11286  
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Hey guys ,I just got a Type-R used to run some 17.5 rubber asphalt. As I'm rebuilding it, I noticed that the rear arms are adding a positive castor of about 2 or 3 degs. to the rear hubs . This doesn't seem normal. Are the arms warped? I guess what I'm trying to say is the inner and outer hinge pins of the arm are not parallel .
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:21 AM
  #11287  
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Originally Posted by steve eaves
I just ran the Novak race,car was very good,iqualified 2nd in 17.5 a main,had some issues and ended up 5th overall,Jim piersol car was also very fast i believe he ended up 2nd,car was just a little tight during the mains but still had a blast.
Nice Job Steve. I see Jim did well is WGT also Congrats!!
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:25 AM
  #11288  
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Originally Posted by Ray k
Hey guys ,I just got a Type-R used to run some 17.5 rubber asphalt. As I'm rebuilding it, I noticed that the rear arms are adding a positive castor of about 2 or 3 degs. to the rear hubs . This doesn't seem normal. Are the arms warped?
If you meant to say toe instead of caster......the rear outer pivot blocks come in three flavors, all interchangeable with the front outer pivot blocks, 0/1/2 degrees. However, the holes in the rear of the chassis add another degree of toe at the arm. So as an example, if you used 0'hubs with the 0'rear pivot block, you'd still have 1' of rear toe in. Hope that helps.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:38 AM
  #11289  
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Originally Posted by John Tag
Nice Job Steve. I see Jim did well is WGT also Congrats!!
Thanks Tag,Jim's wgt was dialed looked great.
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:28 AM
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Thanks Greg, I shortly after posting the question , edited it . I figured people would think I was talking about the toe. I fully understand the mechanics of the toe system. I'm strickly talking about the rear arm .The inner and outer hinge pins of the arm itself are not parallel . So much that it's leaning the rear hubs foward ,like foward or positive caster. The arms are EA3. I've never seen an arm that the inner and outer hinge pins are not parallel. It looks like a cooling problem after molding maybe .
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:35 AM
  #11291  
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Originally Posted by Ray k
Hey guys ,I just got a Type-R used to run some 17.5 rubber asphalt. As I'm rebuilding it, I noticed that the rear arms are adding a positive castor of about 2 or 3 degs. to the rear hubs . This doesn't seem normal. Are the arms warped? I guess what I'm trying to say is the inner and outer hinge pins of the arm are not parallel .
Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe
If you meant to say toe instead of caster......the rear outer pivot blocks come in three flavors, all interchangeable with the front outer pivot blocks, 0/1/2 degrees. However, the holes in the rear of the chassis add another degree of toe at the arm. So as an example, if you used 0'hubs with the 0'rear pivot block, you'd still have 1' of rear toe in. Hope that helps.

He saying the arms are warped, adding some castor.

it is common problem for a 1/8th off road arms to be mingled after a season or two, but could be happend on any vehichle that runs on droop screws to put a hold on springs

I m going to check mine today, IMO arms should be perfectly flat on a setup board
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:54 AM
  #11292  
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee
He saying the arms are warped, adding some castor.

it is common problem for a 1/8th off road arms to be mingled after a season or two, but could be happend on any vehichle that runs on droop screws to put a hold on springs

I m going to check mine today, IMO arms should be perfectly flat on a setup board
No ,they rock opposite corners on a setup board. I figured they were warped ,but just double checking .
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:07 PM
  #11293  
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It sounds like an interesting problem but... if all it is doing is giving your rear end "castor", then what does it matter? Castor only has an effect on the front wheels because they turn. If the wheels don't turn, then the camber will not change and the castor becomes pointless.

Whatever the case I am looking at my chassis which I just happen to have in pieces in front of me. The inner and outer hinge pins are parallel on mine. If its not on your then I suggest new arms.
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:38 PM
  #11294  
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire
It sounds like an interesting problem but... if all it is doing is giving your rear end "castor", then what does it matter? Castor only has an effect on the front wheels because they turn. If the wheels don't turn, then the camber will not change and the castor becomes pointless.

Whatever the case I am looking at my chassis which I just happen to have in pieces in front of me. The inner and outer hinge pins are parallel on mine. If its not on your then I suggest new arms.
I disagree, the casotr does makes diffrence on front line traction either on front or rear.
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:30 AM
  #11295  
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hmm... i've checked all of my rear arms, and they are all flat. Got one with a slight twist in it, but it was used most of last season.
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