"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
#1336
Jilles,
I gather you'll be back in The Netherlands a lot the next 2 years, since the the 2012 worlds is coming to your hometrack... where it all started for you.
WC maybe (would make it full circle).
I gather you'll be back in The Netherlands a lot the next 2 years, since the the 2012 worlds is coming to your hometrack... where it all started for you.
WC maybe (would make it full circle).
#1337
Tech Initiate
have starting to use slightly lighter oil here in Thailand, suggestion from Atsushi and with little harder swaybars it works very well.
Thanks for your Tips for my Setup. What swaybars from other cars can i take in the 416x? From Tamiya it gives in black only medium and soft.
I search a setup with more steering and a solid rear axle. My friend had a TCX and his car had grip on Carpet ......madness. What ist with the upper arm spacer? in front i have 5mm and in rear 4mm, what gives more steering with rear stable, more or less?
Thanks
#1338
Tech Initiate
help
Hi Jilles !!!!
How are you ? I hope you are well
Jille forgive that bothers you, hope you can help me please.
my car every curve I turn opens up a lot in the curve and sometimes makes oversteer and understeer.
my setup is the one that comes in the manual TRF416X, you've VTEC 30X, HPI silver front Oil MM 400, HPI Blue rear Oil MM 300.
What do you recommend that every time you turn a curve well as you and the car will not be part of the behind?
What to do to turn that corner, as you turn the car and not drift (drift) from behind?
when cornering, the rear of the car will drift a lot and does
What to do?
Thank you very much
best regards
How are you ? I hope you are well
Jille forgive that bothers you, hope you can help me please.
my car every curve I turn opens up a lot in the curve and sometimes makes oversteer and understeer.
my setup is the one that comes in the manual TRF416X, you've VTEC 30X, HPI silver front Oil MM 400, HPI Blue rear Oil MM 300.
What do you recommend that every time you turn a curve well as you and the car will not be part of the behind?
What to do to turn that corner, as you turn the car and not drift (drift) from behind?
when cornering, the rear of the car will drift a lot and does
What to do?
Thank you very much
best regards
Last edited by Ciro; 11-09-2010 at 03:19 PM.
#1339
i had the same b4... one reason is weight distribution... get a tweak gear (like in hudy all in one solution).. that help u sort this out.
#1340
Hello Jilles,
Thanks for your Tips for my Setup. What swaybars from other cars can i take in the 416x? From Tamiya it gives in black only medium and soft.
I search a setup with more steering and a solid rear axle. My friend had a TCX and his car had grip on Carpet ......madness. What ist with the upper arm spacer? in front i have 5mm and in rear 4mm, what gives more steering with rear stable, more or less?
Thanks
Thanks for your Tips for my Setup. What swaybars from other cars can i take in the 416x? From Tamiya it gives in black only medium and soft.
I search a setup with more steering and a solid rear axle. My friend had a TCX and his car had grip on Carpet ......madness. What ist with the upper arm spacer? in front i have 5mm and in rear 4mm, what gives more steering with rear stable, more or less?
Thanks
#1341
Tech Initiate
have starting to use slightly lighter oil here in Thailand, suggestion from Atsushi and with little harder swaybars it works very well.
i had buy Xray swaybars, they fit in 416x. 1.5 and 1.6 for the front an 1.3 and 1.4 for the back of the Car.
I try for test next week around MM350 Oil with swaybar 1.5 in front an 1.3 in back. Springs HB Gold in front an HB Silver at the back of the Car. I hope it works on carpet.
#1342
Tech Rookie
gear diff oil for low traction
Hi Jilles!
You said You use 1000wt oil in the gear diff. But normally You run on good grip tracks... If I was to run on a outdoor low traction track would You say a thinner oil like 800 or 900 wt would work better or do You think a ball diff is still the best choice?
Thanks,
Luis
You said You use 1000wt oil in the gear diff. But normally You run on good grip tracks... If I was to run on a outdoor low traction track would You say a thinner oil like 800 or 900 wt would work better or do You think a ball diff is still the best choice?
Thanks,
Luis
#1343
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
Jilles: and yes, i think the track conditions were just really good that day and i guess we had a little luck too having a really clean run that time ... because honestly we never did it again. i sometimes even think we may have had a mis count! hahaha ... most we can do really now is just 27 laps. with the same conditions or if you were here that time, im sure you would have done 29. no doubt about that! so i seriously doubt you'll see a Filipino in the A-Main of the next worlds. hahaha no worries about not making the race. fatherly duties are a priority for you now. Conrgats again! I'm sure you're enjoying your baby (but with very little sleep). .... maybe next year we'll get to race again. Grainger said he is planning to come with his wife to visit relatives. hopefully that pushes through. keep in touch!
#1344
Hello guys,
Sorry for not being around lately.
Haven't touch my rc stuff for over a month now as
my girlfriend gave birth to a healthy little boy two weeks ago.
Back on track now!
- Ronaldo-1234
Preparing the tyres with additive is not easy as this depands on many different factors such as track surface, track temp , tyres, inserts etc.
Let's give me some examples. Here in Thailand I use always FX2 with new and old tyres. I clean the tyre with brakecleaner then I apply FX2 for 5min and go with wet tyres on the track. If you need more traction at the start you might try tyre warmer or make the tyres really dry. Normally new tyre always starts better then uses tyres. Just keep your eyes open in the pits what other drivers are using and how they prep the tyres.
- Pizzadude
It's great that the worlds are in Holland. Should be a little advantage for me, hopefully it will give me a good chance.
- Kiloolli
From Tamiya you can use the blue swaybar 1.6mm and yellow 1.4mm
I never test with solid rear axle, I don't think it works.
The higher the camber link the more stable the car. With high traction higher camber link gives more cornerspeed and is easier to drive. Lower camber link is good when need agressive car but the car is more on the limit.
- Ciro
Your info is very limit to say what your problem is. The VTEC tyres is not the best tyre for grip so first try good tyres like Sorex.
Always check every detail of the set-up careful as one small mistake can give the car a tweak and it's difficult to drive.
-Luis
I tried sometimes 800W oil but I think the difference is too small to feel.
Ball diff is still the more easy drive.
- Gerry
Hope the Manila TC race was nice for you, I haven't seen the result?
Mum and Valentino are doing great, and yes last couple of weeks I had a little less sleep but that's no problem!
Today I meet Noel at the HPI Challenge, nice to see him here, hope to see you in two and half month for the TITC!!
Jilles
Sorry for not being around lately.
Haven't touch my rc stuff for over a month now as
my girlfriend gave birth to a healthy little boy two weeks ago.
Back on track now!
- Ronaldo-1234
Preparing the tyres with additive is not easy as this depands on many different factors such as track surface, track temp , tyres, inserts etc.
Let's give me some examples. Here in Thailand I use always FX2 with new and old tyres. I clean the tyre with brakecleaner then I apply FX2 for 5min and go with wet tyres on the track. If you need more traction at the start you might try tyre warmer or make the tyres really dry. Normally new tyre always starts better then uses tyres. Just keep your eyes open in the pits what other drivers are using and how they prep the tyres.
- Pizzadude
It's great that the worlds are in Holland. Should be a little advantage for me, hopefully it will give me a good chance.
- Kiloolli
From Tamiya you can use the blue swaybar 1.6mm and yellow 1.4mm
I never test with solid rear axle, I don't think it works.
The higher the camber link the more stable the car. With high traction higher camber link gives more cornerspeed and is easier to drive. Lower camber link is good when need agressive car but the car is more on the limit.
- Ciro
Your info is very limit to say what your problem is. The VTEC tyres is not the best tyre for grip so first try good tyres like Sorex.
Always check every detail of the set-up careful as one small mistake can give the car a tweak and it's difficult to drive.
-Luis
I tried sometimes 800W oil but I think the difference is too small to feel.
Ball diff is still the more easy drive.
- Gerry
Hope the Manila TC race was nice for you, I haven't seen the result?
Mum and Valentino are doing great, and yes last couple of weeks I had a little less sleep but that's no problem!
Today I meet Noel at the HPI Challenge, nice to see him here, hope to see you in two and half month for the TITC!!
Jilles
#1346
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Help!!!
I'm having problems with the diff in my 416WE. I can freely adjust the camber on the left rear side of the car, but the right rear, if I adjust the camber past -.5 degrees the drive shaft binds against the nut on the diff. To add to the inconvience it put too much pressure of the plastic blade, and I constantly have to change it(Blade breaKs or get distorted).
I got the car second hand, and I'm not sure if the previouse owner changed parts to suit his "setup" or what. Is there anything obviouse that I'm missing, and can you give me the part numbers that you use for the Diff spring, Aluminum diff joints, and any other parts neccessary to rebuild the diff to a usable state.
With the way i've got the car setup I need between -1 to -1.5 degrees of camber for it to work properly. In short if I can't fix this, my car is going to continue to be a handful to drive. PLEASE HELP!!
Thanks in advance for your time. Hope to hear from you at your earliest convience.
I'm having problems with the diff in my 416WE. I can freely adjust the camber on the left rear side of the car, but the right rear, if I adjust the camber past -.5 degrees the drive shaft binds against the nut on the diff. To add to the inconvience it put too much pressure of the plastic blade, and I constantly have to change it(Blade breaKs or get distorted).
I got the car second hand, and I'm not sure if the previouse owner changed parts to suit his "setup" or what. Is there anything obviouse that I'm missing, and can you give me the part numbers that you use for the Diff spring, Aluminum diff joints, and any other parts neccessary to rebuild the diff to a usable state.
With the way i've got the car setup I need between -1 to -1.5 degrees of camber for it to work properly. In short if I can't fix this, my car is going to continue to be a handful to drive. PLEASE HELP!!
Thanks in advance for your time. Hope to hear from you at your earliest convience.
#1347
Tech Champion
iTrader: (35)
Help!!!
I'm having problems with the diff in my 416WE. I can freely adjust the camber on the left rear side of the car, but the right rear, if I adjust the camber past -.5 degrees the drive shaft binds against the nut on the diff. To add to the inconvience it put too much pressure of the plastic blade, and I constantly have to change it(Blade breaKs or get distorted).
I got the car second hand, and I'm not sure if the previouse owner changed parts to suit his "setup" or what. Is there anything obviouse that I'm missing, and can you give me the part numbers that you use for the Diff spring, Aluminum diff joints, and any other parts neccessary to rebuild the diff to a usable state.
With the way i've got the car setup I need between -1 to -1.5 degrees of camber for it to work properly. In short if I can't fix this, my car is going to continue to be a handful to drive. PLEASE HELP!!
Thanks in advance for your time. Hope to hear from you at your earliest convience.
I'm having problems with the diff in my 416WE. I can freely adjust the camber on the left rear side of the car, but the right rear, if I adjust the camber past -.5 degrees the drive shaft binds against the nut on the diff. To add to the inconvience it put too much pressure of the plastic blade, and I constantly have to change it(Blade breaKs or get distorted).
I got the car second hand, and I'm not sure if the previouse owner changed parts to suit his "setup" or what. Is there anything obviouse that I'm missing, and can you give me the part numbers that you use for the Diff spring, Aluminum diff joints, and any other parts neccessary to rebuild the diff to a usable state.
With the way i've got the car setup I need between -1 to -1.5 degrees of camber for it to work properly. In short if I can't fix this, my car is going to continue to be a handful to drive. PLEASE HELP!!
Thanks in advance for your time. Hope to hear from you at your earliest convience.
Also what length universals do you have in the rear of the car? The 416WE uses 42mm shafts in the rear
#1348
Help!!!
I'm having problems with the diff in my 416WE. I can freely adjust the camber on the left rear side of the car, but the right rear, if I adjust the camber past -.5 degrees the drive shaft binds against the nut on the diff. To add to the inconvience it put too much pressure of the plastic blade, and I constantly have to change it(Blade breaKs or get distorted).
I got the car second hand, and I'm not sure if the previouse owner changed parts to suit his "setup" or what. Is there anything obviouse that I'm missing, and can you give me the part numbers that you use for the Diff spring, Aluminum diff joints, and any other parts neccessary to rebuild the diff to a usable state.
With the way i've got the car setup I need between -1 to -1.5 degrees of camber for it to work properly. In short if I can't fix this, my car is going to continue to be a handful to drive. PLEASE HELP!!
Thanks in advance for your time. Hope to hear from you at your earliest convience.
I'm having problems with the diff in my 416WE. I can freely adjust the camber on the left rear side of the car, but the right rear, if I adjust the camber past -.5 degrees the drive shaft binds against the nut on the diff. To add to the inconvience it put too much pressure of the plastic blade, and I constantly have to change it(Blade breaKs or get distorted).
I got the car second hand, and I'm not sure if the previouse owner changed parts to suit his "setup" or what. Is there anything obviouse that I'm missing, and can you give me the part numbers that you use for the Diff spring, Aluminum diff joints, and any other parts neccessary to rebuild the diff to a usable state.
With the way i've got the car setup I need between -1 to -1.5 degrees of camber for it to work properly. In short if I can't fix this, my car is going to continue to be a handful to drive. PLEASE HELP!!
Thanks in advance for your time. Hope to hear from you at your earliest convience.
Hey Jilles , Congatulations on the birth of little Valentino and Fijne Sinterklaas
#1350
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
I have a couple short question.
I run on a small high/med. carpet track 17.5 with turbo. The surface is cold in winter. I have been trying different setups with some success. I noticed know one runs the front suspension blocks in the high position (1mm or + shims under). Should I consider running lower to make the car less aggressive?
What tire, rim, and foam inserts would you start with on the surface I provided?
Thank you very much for your help.
I run on a small high/med. carpet track 17.5 with turbo. The surface is cold in winter. I have been trying different setups with some success. I noticed know one runs the front suspension blocks in the high position (1mm or + shims under). Should I consider running lower to make the car less aggressive?
What tire, rim, and foam inserts would you start with on the surface I provided?
Thank you very much for your help.