Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

Here is my take on .018 vs. .020 springs... .018's are often not as quick to initially turn or transition, but once turning they give more turn or "carry" a corner better, .020 springs tend to react quicker to steering input, then give up a little or make the front end slide a little, maybe give a little double steer to the car, .018's are better for long sweeper type carry corners, .020's are better for quick left right chicane type transition corners, to me .018 springs work better for making the front end stay more consistent for 8 minutes if you can drive them OK at the beginning of the race, .018's also wear out quicker, get fatigued and saggy much quicker, replace about once a month... JEFF

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

Here are some pics of my 12R5 with the Tbar conversion, running a lipo pack over the T bar, I LOVE the feel of a T bar car, been driving one since the very first 12L days, though it would be a fun experiment to try, works good so far, have run it twice, yesterday i ran it in 17.5 stock on a high bite track, (MMR) and No traction roll issues, gonna try it in Mod next... Only minor mods to make it fit, cut down the Tbar ball cups just slightly, and raised the shock mount and ball stud just a little, battery stand offs are some Traxxas body posts cut down, bolted to the existing holes in the chassis...

SteveL

iTrader: (23)

How do you secure the battery in place? Battery tape around and under the chassis, servo tape, Shoe Goo? Nice job. I will have to try that myself.

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

Here is a couple pics of the battery taped in and ready to run, I took advantage of the room underneath the battery and ran the wires underneath, works good that way and is nice and clean, helped lower the CG a minute amount,and makes it easier to tape the battery in...
the battery is about 6.1 mm off the chassis, there is also a small chunk of servo tape under the back of the battery on each standoff to help locate it and keep it in place, I relpace the servo tape after about 6 or so packs, You could also go to the outside of the chassis with the tape, but I think there is less stress on the chassis this way.

geubes

I have an 12r5.1 arriving shortly and plan to run

17.5 to begin with and then move to 10.5 shortly after.

I have a range of 48dp pinions from my TC that range all the way from 24 - 45. I am looking to get a 48dp Spur for the 12 so i can use my pinions.

Any one else running 48dp, which spur - pinions have you found fit well for stock classes.

I will be running on a small carpet track with a LRP sphere and with intended roll outs of 60mm - 100mm (motor dependant).

also for a small track is a 70mm a good startpoint roll out for 10.5 duo?

Thanks

Apex

iTrader: (51)

yes, that is a good starting point. what are the track dimensions?

geubes

small:

shmcc.org/indoor.jpg

that pic should give you a good idea, but the track we run now is more technical and less power.

Atm it will be 5 min heats until we can get enough 12ths, then move to 8min heats.

Apex

iTrader: (51)

are you running nimh's or 1s lipo?

geubes

1s with booster for servo/rx

Apex

iTrader: (51)

70mm is a good starting point, but I have a feeling you might be gearing down from there to get punch out of the corner.

SteveL

iTrader: (23)

How did you get it to clear the body? I made a set of stand offs last night and there is no way the bullet plugs for the wires will clear. I guess I could heat the body and make a couple of bubbles, but they're going to need to be pretty big.

sdunnmcp

YOU HAVE PM

spurcheck

iTrader: (1)

I need some suggestions on spare parts to get for the 5.1 car. I just changed over to this car and my local racetrack does not have a hobby shop onsite. I know it would be best to just purchase a second car, but if any of you guys could list the most probable spares to get and prioritize would be appreciated.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Depends on how hard and how often you hit the walls and other cars

Obviously you should have spare bearings (front, rear and diff), shock rebuild kit, front springs (0.20"), the front end plastic parts and that is about it. You should have at least one extra spur gear and spare diff balls (they always seem to disappear when rebuilding the diff.

tiko

iTrader: (35)

Hello and Happy Holidays to all. I just finished putting my first 12r5 kit together and I have some questions, if anyone can help I would appreciate it. First, do I need to get the bubbles out or anything like that with these shocks; they don’t have a bladder like the TC car shocks do so I’m a bit confused. Second, for the front kit came with bunch of spacers for the ride height adjustment; are the spacers and truing the tires the only way for the height adjustment. Also is there a way to adjust the height for the back. Right now with all the electronics minus the speed control cars height is 4mm all around. Last question that I have is I need to get some 64P Pinions what sizes should I start with.

Thanks, Tiko