Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
#2461
I also agree with this. The manual is ok. Does the job, but it could do a better job and be much more useful without too much effort.
#2462
mine came in a lil seperate baggy.
spent 15 mins looking for the pinion gear till i looked at the manual and saw the pinion listed under the "required" category...
gotta go back to the LHS today and grab one so i can try this beast out.
you guys running the sidewinder SCT 1410, how do you like it on the SCTE? hows the temps? runtime?
thanks
spent 15 mins looking for the pinion gear till i looked at the manual and saw the pinion listed under the "required" category...
gotta go back to the LHS today and grab one so i can try this beast out.
you guys running the sidewinder SCT 1410, how do you like it on the SCTE? hows the temps? runtime?
thanks
I ran the 1410 motor with a 16T pinion all weekend at a 2 day race and it was really good for my track. About 125x75ft size track. I started with a 15T pinion and was looking for just a little more rip. The 16 was good. Temps on the 16T were coming off the track in the mid 120's for the 5 minute qualifiers. I didn't measure temps after the main. Just did the finger check and it was fine also.
I will say that I was using a MMP not the sidewinder SC esc. If you are going to run the sidewinder you probably want to stay a little more conservative on the gearing. Not sure that little esc will take it. Start with 15T and see if the esc temps are ok.
#2463
Quick question, My truck likes to nose dive off every jump. Is that a setup problem or inherent to 4X4 SC trucks (this is my first 4X4)? I haven't messed with the springs yet, will that help? It seems like I have to mash the gas just to keep it level. I would like to stay away from adding weight to an already heavy truck.
info
RS mounted on center diff
Tekin SCT4 5.5 on lipo
Stock spring and oil
Thanks,
Brian
info
RS mounted on center diff
Tekin SCT4 5.5 on lipo
Stock spring and oil
Thanks,
Brian
#2464
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
The race cars have more info in there mauals. Check out the 8ight manual on www.tlracing.com for info on tuning diffs and setting up the SCTE. All the info on the 8ight should translate to the SCTE since they are very similar.
#2465
I got the same problem too, I have to mash the throttle and stay in it, and I can barely keep it from burying the nose. I know how to correct it in the air, and got a lot of experience. maybe it's has something to do with power as the brakes will dang near make it do a front flip, crazy good brakes. it might could be the motor/esc set-up gearing. I'm running the mamba mmpsc with the 1415 motor. it got great power but the top end seems kinda slower that expected. running a 19 tooth pinion. sure if I was running 3s it would be alot easier to get it to correct in the air lol.
#2466
Most people do not even open the manual! There could be more info in it I agree but people will still not look at it. Refer to posts on guys looking for what size screws go where and what replacement part numbers are. They are inlcuded in the exploded parts sheet that comes with the car but no one looks there for the info!
The race cars have more info in there mauals. Check out the 8ight manual on www.tlracing.com for info on tuning diffs and setting up the SCTE. All the info on the 8ight should translate to the SCTE since they are very similar.
The race cars have more info in there mauals. Check out the 8ight manual on www.tlracing.com for info on tuning diffs and setting up the SCTE. All the info on the 8ight should translate to the SCTE since they are very similar.
I do like having a manual handy when taking apart and re assembling things like diffs but i guess we will have to go by the exploded view which is fine.
I'm sure one day Losi will release a "TLR" scte with all the hopups but until then there wont be a complete "how to" book.
BTW i did read the manual that it did come with.
#2467
Tech Elite
iTrader: (121)
They are 2.5x.45x10mm.
You can get them at a local fastener shop or McMaster Carr has them.
You are not the only one:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ws#post8740651
You can get them at a local fastener shop or McMaster Carr has them.
You are not the only one:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ws#post8740651
i stripped a screw in the rear diff cover. i could have gotten it out, but i was worried i didnt have a replacement so i left the grease in and ran 3-3-grease.
almost stripped some of the other screws in the front and center but was able to remove them. anyone else have this trouble? they were super tight.
can anyone tell me the size of the screw so i can pick some up? i see you have to buy the whole diff case and its on back order anyway.
thanks.
p.s.
my first ever paint jobs and a tribute to my alma mater
almost stripped some of the other screws in the front and center but was able to remove them. anyone else have this trouble? they were super tight.
can anyone tell me the size of the screw so i can pick some up? i see you have to buy the whole diff case and its on back order anyway.
thanks.
p.s.
my first ever paint jobs and a tribute to my alma mater
#2468
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Most people do not even open the manual! There could be more info in it I agree but people will still not look at it. Refer to posts on guys looking for what size screws go where and what replacement part numbers are. They are inlcuded in the exploded parts sheet that comes with the car but no one looks there for the info!
The race cars have more info in there mauals. Check out the 8ight manual on www.tlracing.com for info on tuning diffs and setting up the SCTE. All the info on the 8ight should translate to the SCTE since they are very similar.
The race cars have more info in there mauals. Check out the 8ight manual on www.tlracing.com for info on tuning diffs and setting up the SCTE. All the info on the 8ight should translate to the SCTE since they are very similar.
#2469
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
My weight check in on a shipping scale was 6.8 lbs.. This was full weight with the heavier CC 1415 motor.. I switched over to a carbon front shock tower and hacked off part of the rear bumper where the mudflaps attatch since then. I will get it weighed and post that back up later
#2470
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
The fact of the matter is, manuals cost alot of money to produce. Especially what you are proposing. This is all considered when trying to figure out what costs will be for the kit/ARR.
Yeah but you are generalizing the minority of the people asking those questions here to the majority that actually do use the manual like myself. I would prefer not to see losi go the traxxas way and only give exploded views. I'd rather have an actual build manual so when the truck is stripped and you begin the rebuild process you know what every screw is and where it goes. The exploded views can be hard on certain area's of the car to figure that out sometimes.
#2471
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
Yeah but you are generalizing the minority of the people asking those questions here to the majority that actually do use the manual like myself. I would prefer not to see losi go the traxxas way and only give exploded views. I'd rather have an actual build manual so when the truck is stripped and you begin the rebuild process you know what every screw is and where it goes. The exploded views can be hard on certain area's of the car to figure that out sometimes.
I agree using exploded views to rebuild a car can be tough. I always try and group screws from each section together when I take something apart to keep it all orginized to put it back together but will admit I will mess stuff up everyonce in a while in a big pile and have to figure it all out again. Once you tear into it once or twice it is pretty easy to get in there and remember where all the parts go. The truck is pretty easy to work on as the clips come off the front and rear with minimal effort. The rear is 5 screws. The front is 7 how I do it. I take the bottom 4 out that hold the diff in and the three that hold the top plate to the steering posts and chassis brace and it comes off. You can do the two front ones that attach the top plate to the front bulkhead but I don't like getting that spacer in and out. It is a neat feature if you can get that spacer in and out easy though.
#2472
#2473
I got my roller in this morning. I ordered it and the pinion from a-main.
I was planning on running a castle CM 36s 4600 kv., but I just noticed the MOD. 1 pinion doesn't fit????
I was planning on running a castle CM 36s 4600 kv., but I just noticed the MOD. 1 pinion doesn't fit????
#2474
Yea it's pretty small... Goes to show the truck does very well on tight tracks. Also the truck with the orange rear and black hood (SC_RAGE's) is running the 1415 on 3S. I was running the Tekin 5.5 on 2S.
Wrong motor for this truck, you should drop a CC 1410 (without the Sidewinder ESC) or use a 550 sized can motor (4.5-5.5). If you use the CM36 series motors you will smoke them. They are designed for 2wd not 6.8lb 4wd trucks.
Wrong motor for this truck, you should drop a CC 1410 (without the Sidewinder ESC) or use a 550 sized can motor (4.5-5.5). If you use the CM36 series motors you will smoke them. They are designed for 2wd not 6.8lb 4wd trucks.
#2475
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
I wouldn't worry about it killing off the class. Great, game changing cars have been introduced in the past and it doesn't kill a class. Also, despite it's complexity and weird battery and motor restrictions, the AE truck I think will be quite competitive with this truck. I have gone with the Losi, I've always been more of a Losi guy although I have had some nice AE cars over the years. Anyway, new cars and new ideas in the class will only make it stronger.
I really hope they do start allowing 3s around the country for this class. I think with the 550 motors and 1/8 scale systems people (like myself) are putting in them, they can handle the added power. That being said, I had to run 3s with the 1/8th scale system I have in my truck or I wouldn't have enough power to keep up with the 550 cans on 2s. This is where you see the difference in KV ratings. But put the extra volts into the lower kv motors and it's an equalizer speed and power wise. Then comes the debate over added weight though.