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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-08-2011, 09:30 AM
  #2461  
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Originally Posted by AMorgan View Post
If I could request one thing on this truck, I'd like to see a full build up manual like what shipped with the 8ight and 8ight-T made available. It makes speccing hardware and rebuilding the more complex assemblies that much easier.
I also agree with this. The manual is ok. Does the job, but it could do a better job and be much more useful without too much effort.
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Kotu100 View Post
mine came in a lil seperate baggy.

spent 15 mins looking for the pinion gear till i looked at the manual and saw the pinion listed under the "required" category...

gotta go back to the LHS today and grab one so i can try this beast out.

you guys running the sidewinder SCT 1410, how do you like it on the SCTE? hows the temps? runtime?

thanks

I ran the 1410 motor with a 16T pinion all weekend at a 2 day race and it was really good for my track. About 125x75ft size track. I started with a 15T pinion and was looking for just a little more rip. The 16 was good. Temps on the 16T were coming off the track in the mid 120's for the 5 minute qualifiers. I didn't measure temps after the main. Just did the finger check and it was fine also.

I will say that I was using a MMP not the sidewinder SC esc. If you are going to run the sidewinder you probably want to stay a little more conservative on the gearing. Not sure that little esc will take it. Start with 15T and see if the esc temps are ok.
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:44 AM
  #2463  
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Originally Posted by Hotdog711 View Post
Quick question, My truck likes to nose dive off every jump. Is that a setup problem or inherent to 4X4 SC trucks (this is my first 4X4)? I haven't messed with the springs yet, will that help? It seems like I have to mash the gas just to keep it level. I would like to stay away from adding weight to an already heavy truck.
info
RS mounted on center diff
Tekin SCT4 5.5 on lipo
Stock spring and oil

Thanks,
Brian
I got the same problem too, I have to mash the throttle and stay in it, and I can barely keep it from burying the nose. I know how to correct it in the air, and got a lot of experience. maybe it's has something to do with power as the brakes will dang near make it do a front flip, crazy good brakes. it might could be the motor/esc set-up gearing. I'm running the mamba mmpsc with the 1415 motor. it got great power but the top end seems kinda slower that expected. running a 19 tooth pinion. sure if I was running 3s it would be alot easier to get it to correct in the air lol.
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
I also agree with this. The manual is ok. Does the job, but it could do a better job and be much more useful without too much effort.
Most people do not even open the manual! There could be more info in it I agree but people will still not look at it. Refer to posts on guys looking for what size screws go where and what replacement part numbers are. They are inlcuded in the exploded parts sheet that comes with the car but no one looks there for the info!

The race cars have more info in there mauals. Check out the 8ight manual on www.tlracing.com for info on tuning diffs and setting up the SCTE. All the info on the 8ight should translate to the SCTE since they are very similar.
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by wcrase101 View Post
I got the same problem too, I have to mash the throttle and stay in it, and I can barely keep it from burying the nose. I know how to correct it in the air, and got a lot of experience. maybe it's has something to do with power as the brakes will dang near make it do a front flip, crazy good brakes. it might could be the motor/esc set-up gearing. I'm running the mamba mmpsc with the 1415 motor. it got great power but the top end seems kinda slower that expected. running a 19 tooth pinion. sure if I was running 3s it would be alot easier to get it to correct in the air lol.
I would start by making sure your drag brake is off, it's an easy place to start. This happened to me once and had me thinking it was a setup issue. I discovered I had too much drag brake.
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:52 AM
  #2466  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Most people do not even open the manual! There could be more info in it I agree but people will still not look at it. Refer to posts on guys looking for what size screws go where and what replacement part numbers are. They are inlcuded in the exploded parts sheet that comes with the car but no one looks there for the info!

The race cars have more info in there mauals. Check out the 8ight manual on www.tlracing.com for info on tuning diffs and setting up the SCTE. All the info on the 8ight should translate to the SCTE since they are very similar.
True true true. with the advent of forums most people will just ask the question instead of looking it up.
I do like having a manual handy when taking apart and re assembling things like diffs but i guess we will have to go by the exploded view which is fine.
I'm sure one day Losi will release a "TLR" scte with all the hopups but until then there wont be a complete "how to" book.
BTW i did read the manual that it did come with.
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:53 AM
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They are 2.5x.45x10mm.

You can get them at a local fastener shop or McMaster Carr has them.

You are not the only one:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ws#post8740651


Originally Posted by skyler hays View Post
i stripped a screw in the rear diff cover. i could have gotten it out, but i was worried i didnt have a replacement so i left the grease in and ran 3-3-grease.

almost stripped some of the other screws in the front and center but was able to remove them. anyone else have this trouble? they were super tight.

can anyone tell me the size of the screw so i can pick some up? i see you have to buy the whole diff case and its on back order anyway.

thanks.

p.s.
my first ever paint jobs and a tribute to my alma mater
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Most people do not even open the manual! There could be more info in it I agree but people will still not look at it. Refer to posts on guys looking for what size screws go where and what replacement part numbers are. They are inlcuded in the exploded parts sheet that comes with the car but no one looks there for the info!

The race cars have more info in there mauals. Check out the 8ight manual on www.tlracing.com for info on tuning diffs and setting up the SCTE. All the info on the 8ight should translate to the SCTE since they are very similar.
Yeah but you are generalizing the minority of the people asking those questions here to the majority that actually do use the manual like myself. I would prefer not to see losi go the traxxas way and only give exploded views. I'd rather have an actual build manual so when the truck is stripped and you begin the rebuild process you know what every screw is and where it goes. The exploded views can be hard on certain area's of the car to figure that out sometimes.
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by fantomdude View Post
That is one wicked paint job! How did you get the blue to have that look
I'm his painter of that particular body.. It's called "marbeling" and you'd be suprised what a little saran wrap will do.

My weight check in on a shipping scale was 6.8 lbs.. This was full weight with the heavier CC 1415 motor.. I switched over to a carbon front shock tower and hacked off part of the rear bumper where the mudflaps attatch since then. I will get it weighed and post that back up later
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:03 AM
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The fact of the matter is, manuals cost alot of money to produce. Especially what you are proposing. This is all considered when trying to figure out what costs will be for the kit/ARR.
Originally Posted by mavrick0 View Post
Yeah but you are generalizing the minority of the people asking those questions here to the majority that actually do use the manual like myself. I would prefer not to see losi go the traxxas way and only give exploded views. I'd rather have an actual build manual so when the truck is stripped and you begin the rebuild process you know what every screw is and where it goes. The exploded views can be hard on certain area's of the car to figure that out sometimes.
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mavrick0 View Post
Yeah but you are generalizing the minority of the people asking those questions here to the majority that actually do use the manual like myself. I would prefer not to see losi go the traxxas way and only give exploded views. I'd rather have an actual build manual so when the truck is stripped and you begin the rebuild process you know what every screw is and where it goes. The exploded views can be hard on certain area's of the car to figure that out sometimes.
I see both sides. Unfortunately you are the minority in this. (you read the manual! LOL)

I agree using exploded views to rebuild a car can be tough. I always try and group screws from each section together when I take something apart to keep it all orginized to put it back together but will admit I will mess stuff up everyonce in a while in a big pile and have to figure it all out again. Once you tear into it once or twice it is pretty easy to get in there and remember where all the parts go. The truck is pretty easy to work on as the clips come off the front and rear with minimal effort. The rear is 5 screws. The front is 7 how I do it. I take the bottom 4 out that hold the diff in and the three that hold the top plate to the steering posts and chassis brace and it comes off. You can do the two front ones that attach the top plate to the front bulkhead but I don't like getting that spacer in and out. It is a neat feature if you can get that spacer in and out easy though.
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
It cracks me up how small that track is
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:39 AM
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I got my roller in this morning. I ordered it and the pinion from a-main.
I was planning on running a castle CM 36s 4600 kv., but I just noticed the MOD. 1 pinion doesn't fit????
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Ridley View Post
It cracks me up how small that track is
Yea it's pretty small... Goes to show the truck does very well on tight tracks. Also the truck with the orange rear and black hood (SC_RAGE's) is running the 1415 on 3S. I was running the Tekin 5.5 on 2S.

Originally Posted by liljim View Post
I got my roller in this morning. I ordered it and the pinion from a-main.
I was planning on running a castle CM 36s 4600 kv., but I just noticed the MOD. 1 pinion doesn't fit????
Wrong motor for this truck, you should drop a CC 1410 (without the Sidewinder ESC) or use a 550 sized can motor (4.5-5.5). If you use the CM36 series motors you will smoke them. They are designed for 2wd not 6.8lb 4wd trucks.
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
I wouldn't worry about it killing off the class. Great, game changing cars have been introduced in the past and it doesn't kill a class. Also, despite it's complexity and weird battery and motor restrictions, the AE truck I think will be quite competitive with this truck. I have gone with the Losi, I've always been more of a Losi guy although I have had some nice AE cars over the years. Anyway, new cars and new ideas in the class will only make it stronger.
I hope you're right. For the sake of the class, which I think is a really fun class. I've seen the Associated truck in person and honestly I think the LONG TERM durability may be a problem, but even if it's not, I think that people are going to get sick of having to take 1/2 the truck apart everytime they want to work on it. That's what I think it's major downfall is going to be. Ofcourse if it wins on Sunday, people will buy it on Monday. I have to say, it's the quietest 4wd vehicle I've ever seen. It sounds like a 2wd SC10 it's that quiet with the belt system, not that it matters, but it was interesting lol


Originally Posted by RustyRC View Post
They dont allow 3s lipo to race at our club.
Originally Posted by fireflysti View Post
for now
I really hope they do start allowing 3s around the country for this class. I think with the 550 motors and 1/8 scale systems people (like myself) are putting in them, they can handle the added power. That being said, I had to run 3s with the 1/8th scale system I have in my truck or I wouldn't have enough power to keep up with the 550 cans on 2s. This is where you see the difference in KV ratings. But put the extra volts into the lower kv motors and it's an equalizer speed and power wise. Then comes the debate over added weight though.
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