Originally Posted by InspGadgt

Also you can just swap it out with the long Corally ball stud which is steel

Originally Posted by Clegg

so a friend and I both run DB12RR's and have had the same failure of the front shock mount ball stud. When using the long alloy stud, we have found they tweak or snap in collisions. Now I know we shouldnt hit stuff... but it happens.

Both of us recently have fallen out of mains and qualifiers from failure of that front ball. Now we know this is a legacy associated bit from the 12L3 series of cars, so its not a BMI design failure. But I went and found a solid solution.

After seeing the new 12R5 center shock mount position and then looking at the 1/10th offerings out there, I picked up a Darkside Motorsports Adjustible center shock mount (#140). I rocks. In the same position as the AE mount it takes a lil more distance on the shock to give the same geometry, but overall its perfect. I used a small Ti ball stud in it and its rock solid. It has a pre threaded delrin base that fits fine.

Its probably a few gm's heavier than the AE setup, but I have no fear of busting those long ball studs anymore. And it complements the cars looks rather nicely.

I did also... somehow... bust the Silvia shock cap. I snapped the threaded portion right off. so I put an aluminum 4x40 scew through the hole with a small Oring on it, and a thin nut on the other side, and its good as new and longer which works for the darkside setup.

Originally Posted by terryh

Off the start line my car pulls to the left, I have also noticed that the steering blocks are getting a little loose on the kingpin so there's a bit of play, could this be the problem?

The car is fine once it's rolling, any idea's??

Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer

Hey,
check front tire diameter is the same both sided, also for rear. If the camber is different left to right the car will pull a bit to one side. Also check ride height left to right and make sure its the same. Also under low traction conditions if the diff is too tight the back end will lose traction and swing out.
Good luck

Originally Posted by protc3

Also make sure your axle is centered properly. It needs to be centered almost perfect. If you face the shorter boss on the clamping hub towards the bearing in the pod plate, you will need 3mm of shims per side and you will be at 172 mm and perfectly centered. This is with the offset of jaco and the new parma black wheel.

Originally Posted by chris moore

All covered at the top of this page One additional thing is to check that the front springs are the same height

Originally Posted by xtrememadness

hey clegg thats a sweet shock mount im gonna have to pick one of them up. the long irs ball stud always snaps and the corally is like 9 bucks and its metric so you need a different ball cup. thats why we run a medium height ball stud with 2mm spacers under the stock mount. same height as long ball stud without the snappage hey jason looks like you need to make an adjustable mount now buddy

Originally Posted by xtrememadness

hey clegg thats a sweet shock mount im gonna have to pick one of them up. the long irs ball stud always snaps and the corally is like 9 bucks and its metric so you need a different ball cup. thats why we run a medium height ball stud with 2mm spacers under the stock mount. same height as long ball stud without the snappage hey jason looks like you need to make an adjustable mount now buddy

Originally Posted by John St.Amant

Also please note that both jiggly bits are deflecting at a 45 degree angle which means that those are real. But yet animated.

Originally Posted by protc3

The hinge pin is supposed to be tight in the caster block. You only want it to be free in the arm. If it fits loosely through both the arm and caster block it will make the assembly sloppy. Remember that only the arm pivots on the pin.