Shimmy

iTrader: (19)

Ah, some action on the thread, good to see.

Still haven't managed to get mine out for a while yet, might try to do so on Saturday, I'll see if I can finish off the diff output cups.

I only run the lipo with bullet connectors, and I use the low profile bullets soldered 90 degrees on the end, as flat as I can and they fit perfectly fine.
I'd like to know how normal packs with wires hanging out of them fit in, where do you shove all that wire?

A second XV for off road would be pretty good to go along with the more dedicated on roader.

4roller

A lipo hardpack fits just fine, I just bunch up the wires and shove the lid on. The wires basically act as a battery stop so it doesn't slide around.

I just got some low profile battery leads, I'll try them with my shorty pack soon enough.

4roller

It's actually summer. But I've been putting together then 2nd xv-01. I am trying the no oil spring resonance method of finding the right springs. I've found Tamiya blues up front with reds (or stock xv-01) springs in the rear work well so far. Basically the front should be about 2 spring rates harder than the rear.

The gearing I've set to 72/28 no slipper, it could definitely handle a bigger pinion since it's running pretty cool with a 17.5 Trinity D4 motor and Hobby Wing xr10 Just Stock esc. I will also up the endbell timing. No turbo for this machine. I haven't decided the ride height for this car yet. At max, the front turnbuckles run against the suspension mounts. Bummer. I can't exactly shave down the aluminium.



So far so good. I have my TC running really well too. 9mm or right height there seems about right.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

I settled on Yellows in the front and Reds in the rear for my front-motor XV-01. The reason I use Yellows in the front instead of Blues is because I'm running much thicker oil in the front, so the front suspension can be more compliant for better traction in corners, while still resisting bottoming-out on sharp impacts like running over the edge of a sidewalk slab that's sticking up a little

On my long-damper rally builds, I use the TRF201 front-shock tuning springs, with Blues in the front and Reds in the rear.

4roller

Oh it's good to know that we kind of came to the same conclusion.

I ended up putting some. 40wt (500cst) oil in all four corners. It's a little heavy for rally. The 2 hole pistons from yeah racing must have smaller holes because it packs up pretty tight when compressing. I might try 30wt or even 20wt since I'd like it to handle bumps better. Like you mentioned though, thicker oil helps with resisting bottoming out. And I think for jumping it would be better.

I guess it's really a compromise between fast reacting suspension and a suspension that can handle light jumping, nose diving in the xv-01s case.

With heavy damper oil, it really holds big turns quite well. Its the side to side fast corners that the heavy oil is too slow to shift weight and you are left with imbalances like say in slolam. The rear end just slides out. Maybe just lighter rear oil. Or...... Roll bars which I haven't installed yet.

4roller

So I've been fiddling with dampers and found I could mix and match bits to make a decently long damper, one that makes use of the majority of the xv-01s range.

The original dampers with shaft and short endlink leave the xv-01 with low ground clearance when fully extended and a bunch of upward swing when compressed.

Using the long end link leaves the xv-01 riding high and never quite able to bottom out.

The modified damper I am using a long CVA damper body, and the original CVA shaft with short end link. This produces a damper that at full extension gives very good ride height almost max down swing, and compressed is shorter than the standard CVA with a long end link. This allows the chassis to basically bottom out.

I am not sure what car these damper bodies came from, they came with my second xv-01 (hacked and pieced together) that have long shafts with a flat plate attached. The plate has no piston holes.

Anyway, I added some pictures so you can see the differences.
CVA dampers really aren't that bad with TRF or yeah racing pistons. If you are willing to take the time to set proper preloads usually not the same for each corner, they handle quite well.

Standard CVA left, modified right.



Below left is the standard CVA with a ball cup end link (a little shorter than the long end link) right is the modified CVA damper with long body.

Shimmy

iTrader: (19)

I found it doesn't handle as well with shorty packs.
More of an issue when you're trying to throw/slide it around a bit, it doesn't seem to have the same side bite.
Still driveable but it's noticeable.


I have the AE B4 front spring set and TRF201 front springs too, can't remember the colour of the TRF but I have the stiffest on the back and an AE B4 Brown on the front.
Can't remember how well it balanced up or how well it ran, as the front drive cup being severely worn negated any improvements that could be seen.

I'm also using the GF-01 alloy dampers with the long damper shock towers.

I also primarily run on asphalt but essentially running a harder off-road/rally setup, just makes a lot of fun to drive.

4roller

It's been a while since I drove the xv-01 with its stock suspension. I've had the TC xv-01 for a minute now.

Anyway I rebuilt the 2nd xv-01.
It took a while to sort out but I finally got it running nice-nice again. I don't care about slop as much at this point. It drives well with a little slop.

Even with the soft springs and CVA dampers, I was able to tune it just right so that it exited corners with just enough slip to make it fun. No wild unpredictable shenanigans.

At first my setup kept fish tailing. And only when turning left. I was like "how can this be?" Anyway, it turns out that I have 3 kinds of silver springs in my parts kit. Short and soft, long and soft and short and hard. I accidentally mixed them in different corners.

Anyway I went back to using the soft short springs all around with the stock CVAs and short end links. 30wt 2 hole TRF pistons. Pretty close to stock xv-01.

I find it most important to set your preloads until the car rotates evenly both ways. This for me usually means a 1mm spacer on the rear left. And 2mm spacer on the front right. Both of my xv01s have this strange weight balance even with different electronics. This should set up the car so that the tires touch evenly left and right when lifted from either the front or the rear.

After the preloads are done, determine how rear happy your car is. Too slippy, add 4mm to both rear shock collars. Then subtract 1mm at a time from each side until you get to the rotation zaininess you enjoy.

The setup is so decent that I was running slicks on dusty pavement with a Brushless 17.5t. It seems to work every time.

There really is only so much bench tuning you can do before you just need to lay the car down on the ground and drive it.

You know even though I said I was going to rally this chassis. I always end up driving on the street. Lol.

Anyway fun times. The chassis is great. Stock.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, getting rid of slop works fine for on-road cars, but the suspension will jam-up when dust gets into the pivots if the slop was already shimmed-out when the suspension was clean.

4roller

How terrible would the xv-01 be with just rear wheel drive?

With a front mount motor, I reckon there would be very little traction for acceleration. Burnouts would be easy though. Traction and diff tuning would be very important.

Oversteer in the form of spinning-out would probably happen pretty frequently in hard accelerating corners. Especially on low traction surfaces.

My guess is turning under partial power would be okay with all that weight up front. It's hard to say what it would be like mid-corner, exiting would be a diff-icult. Either over steer or weak acceleration due to the inner rear wheel being light and losing power. I guess it would also depend on that rear diff fluid.

Braking, basically ass.

But rear wheel drive might be okay on a flowing track. I am thinking one way here.

Dusty surfaces would be like driving on ice.

Yeah so what's it like Rwd for those who have tried? I presume front wheel drive wouldn't been so bad.

I have an extra set of arms with the dog bone drive cups still installed in the hubs. I might try it for giggles with the second xv-01.

I tried rear wheel drive with a TA05 once, it was awful. It drove around in circles.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

So I converted my XV01 Pro to TC over the weekend. I had all the parts already to do it between my 419 and TA05 etc.

I'm a little baffled by something. The manual says that the TC version uses 44 mm drive shafts, which I installed on the CVDs. Problem is they barely sit inside the drive cup, unless you run a lot of camber.

Realistically 46mm would be more suitable.

I have been absent from this thread but I do recall one of you running the TC arms. Let me know what drive shafts your running

* I think I figured it out.. the TC comes with the front spool / direct drive. Those drive cups stick out further than the diff.

4roller

I am running the TC with 44mm CVDs. It is the correct length assuming you use certain width suspension blocks. I'll have check which ones I have.

Papi

What blocks are you using? 419 has 1F, XV has 1A, which is few milimeters narrower

4roller

1A sounds familiar.

4roller

While not a xv-01 chassis, I still continue to dabble and mangle other chassis to get that rally ride height.

Xv-01 front arms on a TB03.




TC short reversible arms found on tb03/04, Ta05v2, ta06, trf416... Are very limited in droop. 1 because of chassis molding, which you can see I milled away. 2 the hub carrier and arm interface just blocks downward motion without modification. I opted in this case to use xv-01 front arms TB suspension blocks with mad spacers underneath to get almost 22mm droop, similar to the rear (needs no modifications using TC arms).

I had to use 44mm cvds instead of the 42mm CVDs for the Xv-01.

This modification while producing a significant increase in suspension travel has increased chatter to a crazy amount. I am not sure if dcj would resolve the issue. It only happens when wheels are mounted.

Rally forever.