budlightnmyhand

Hmm, what is the difference between the front one way and the gear diff?? I gave that part number to mike from rcnutsand hobbies to see if he can get that for me. I dont know how my track will be

vones

iTrader: (1)

Guys I've just got my G4-Pro running for a couple of days and I tell you 1 things this car is planted like roots...good acceleration and top end with stock settings on my local track...was using foams 35 sh while others were using foams 40 sh with traction roll...LOL.......1 question.....
Anybody has experience on the wear rate of the clutch shoe seems like my clutch shoe wear is quite fast.....I hve tightened it down to 0.7mm with end play of 0.4mm....what other clutch shoe other than the stock ones are common.....also is the K factory clutch shoe different from the shoe that came from the stock box? and also has anybody tried the Kawahara SS Mirco Clutch on this car...? Thks a mil guys...

jas1

as far as i am aware the clutch that comes with the e-class is the k-factory clutch, i have run my car for about 8 months know and not expericenced any clutch wear probs, so cant help you there.

i know someone who used too run a Kawahara clutch in an mtx 2 and had no ploblems with it

Aggdaddy

Welcome aboard. Always to see new g4 owners on the thread.

Clutch shoe for your push type clutch should be the same as k-Factory.

-

Hey guys, I still can't find the problem that some of our drivers are having with the steering. I have drove my car three race days without any maintenance more than a blast of Silicon Spray on the rails. Steering is still smooth and everytime I turn the wheel either way, it centers itself automatically.
I'm listening to the servo as I turn it and its not making any noise after its centered.
This is the stock servo saver too.

vones

iTrader: (1)

I don't hve any problems with my steering servo saver even after some pretty accidents....just need a bit more patience when building the front bulkhead......the radio tray gave me the most Pain In The [email protected] it was well worth it.......

vones

iTrader: (1)

how much did you tightened down the clutch spring and the end play.........I'm using a Sirio 5 port turbo AAC with the stock gearing...

J_Longbrake

iTrader: (20)

FYI www.midwestseries.com

Brian Berry has put up a nice little site some time ago for the series if anyone is interested.

jas1

not sure what the manual says, but i usually set mine at .9mm with .4mm end float. may be .7mm is coming in fairly late and the higher revs are causing the wear on the shoes

budlightnmyhand

Why can't there be a place for me to race that isn't a 2 to 3 hour drive .

Oh well,
I at least get to race in strongsville ohio. Its about 30 min away. Races don't start till the end of may though.

Mike

Aggdaddy

I set my clutch end play to have less than .4mm of play. Just a tip I got off of teamtrinity.com . Look for the clutch tuning menu button.

Also put a shim in-between the inner bearing and the clutch spring nut. Your bearing will last longer.

Always try to grease your thrust bearing before your raceday or anytime you take the clutchbell off. It'll help keep your thrust bearing longer.

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

Guys I decided not to sell my G4, but I'm having some problems. I'm trying to break in my Fantom motor. Problem is that it won't pull the fuel through the line when I give it throttle. I don't know if I have an air leak or what the deal is. I did have to take the backplate off and a boost bottle nipple. I was going to try and re seal everything, but does anyone have any suggestions.

Aggdaddy

I'm pretty sure that that is an air leak problem. You could have that problem with any car.

Here's a little check list you can do.

1. Replace all of your fuel tubing.
2. Make sure that the nipple on the exhaust pipe is not clogged.
3. Make sure that the fuel filter is not clogged and air tight.
4. If you can blow fuel from the fuel tubing that goes to your exhaust pipe to the carb, or if you can blow into the fuel tubing from the exhaust and put your finger over the end of the fuel tubing that goes into the carb and air does not leak, then your fuel system does not have an air leak.

I hope that this has been helpful.

RCNUT

iTrader: (21)

I would go by elimination:

1) replace the fuel line-least expensive
2) check fuel tank for airleaks
2) make sure your carb settings are correct and fuel is getting to the engine(if it is a slide carb and you messed with the screw next to the ball cup, that could be causing the problem)
4) check back plate and take it off and put back on using some sealant

Aggdaddy

Just got my setup system and board. Thanks RCNUT

Just learned that gauging your camber by your tires is totally inaccurate. I thought I was running 1.5 camber in front and 3 in the rear.

With the PMB systems, its more like 3 in the front and 4.5 in the rear. But I guess if that's what works, I'll use it for now.

I even tested it with my RPM gauge on the prism gauges and it said I was running 3 in the front and 4.5 in the rear.

So cool.

Maybe my car will track straight now.

As for coning, My tires are pretty straight at the end of the day. (just in case if you were wondering.)

bballer

sounds cool, can't wait until i can get one