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Old 01-07-2012, 10:28 PM
  #1261  
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Originally Posted by zaraz
I am looking at the setup sheets, now for the chassis, if there is a red circle on the bottom do you have that screw removed or is it there and the others removed, and for the top deck, if there is a x is it cut or it is the one that is not cut thanks
Let us agree that these red circles will mean the installed screws and the red X will mean the cutted crosspieces.

I suppose that chassis screws pattern of Tom Maquel's setups must be corrected after that.
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Old 01-08-2012, 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
Let us agree that these red circles will mean the installed screws and the red X will mean the cutted crosspieces.
Ive been running without the screws.
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:48 AM
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Where are most of you running your wheelbase?

If possible - measure center to axle (rear) to center of axle front.

Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MDawson
Where are most of you running your wheelbase?

If possible - measure center to axle (rear) to center of axle front.

Thanks!
Hi Mark,

So far, I've just been running a 3mm diff between the two measurements, so around 7.5° of Castor.

HiH
Ed
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:11 PM
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What I am looking for is not just the castor angle from the front spindles but also an castor + or - on the rear spindles
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MDawson
What I am looking for is not just the castor angle from the front spindles but also an castor + or - on the rear spindles
Hi Mark,

Yeah, that was for the rear 3mmx2.5 = +7.5° (as in + being the spindle leaning forward), on the front I'm running about 4.5° (again, 3mm diff in measurement).

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Old 01-08-2012, 07:50 PM
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Another big plus from me on the Excellent customer service from Oleg.
As previously mentioned, I had a small issue with stripping the head out on one of the small screws in the dampers, mainly because it was a little tight.
Now, I should also mention it hasn't in anyway stopped the dampers working, just limited it to running in symetric mode only.
I've spoken with Oleg about it, tried and failed to get the screw out, and today two new dampers to replace the ones on the front of my car turned up... Honestly, can't fault that for service!

Great job Oleg, great job!
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:43 PM
  #1268  
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
Let us agree that these red circles will mean the installed screws and the red X will mean the cutted crosspieces.

I suppose that chassis screws pattern of Tom Maquel's setups must be corrected after that.
Hello Guys,
yes your right as always Oleg ...on my setups the red dots will mean that the screws are removed and x is cutted.

------------------------
yesterday the second race of our Luxembourgish championship was held and another win for the A700 in the modified class.

after qualitfying second with just 2tenths missing, I managed to win the second and third final with always my good friend joe in the same tents just behind me. Thanks Joe for that great and fair battle, was on of the closest races I ever done .
the second A700 in the field finished 6 in A final.
kind regards Tom
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Hi Mark,

Yeah, that was for the rear 3mmx2.5 = +7.5° (as in + being the spindle leaning forward), on the front I'm running about 4.5° (again, 3mm diff in measurement).

HiH
Ed
Thanks Ed.

Have you spotted any setups for transverse + carpet?
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MDawson
Thanks Ed.

Have you spotted any setups for transverse + carpet?
Not yet... but I intend to go to the local 8th gas track this coming weekend and test out long vs tran, as well as try and get a basic mod setup on the go!
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbone13
Hello Guys,
yes your right as always Oleg ...on my setups the red dots will mean that the screws are removed and x is cutted.

------------------------
yesterday the second race of our Luxembourgish championship was held and another win for the A700 in the modified class.

after qualitfying second with just 2tenths missing, I managed to win the second and third final with always my good friend joe in the same tents just behind me. Thanks Joe for that great and fair battle, was on of the closest races I ever done .
the second A700 in the field finished 6 in A final.
kind regards Tom
Well done Tom... indoor carpet? setup?

Btw, I do the same for the screws. Red dot for used, red X for cut
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MDawson
Thanks Ed.

Have you spotted any setups for transverse + carpet?
I run transverse on carpet, my settings seem quite different to anything I've seen, I'd be interested to know what you think if you keep your current set up and change only the motor orientation. I plan to do the same in reverse just to isolate the effect. I should imagine the mass centralisation would have a bigger effect than the reorientation of the motor itself
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by hana166
I run transverse on carpet, my settings seem quite different to anything I've seen, I'd be interested to know what you think if you keep your current set up and change only the motor orientation. I plan to do the same in reverse just to isolate the effect. I should imagine the mass centralisation would have a bigger effect than the reorientation of the motor itself
It is inevitable that some tweaks might be needed. The T-setup with an uncut top deck seems to already have more chassis flex. Would have liked to have had the solution work with having to space the motor as far out as it is (without have to cut the motor shaft). The car seems to roll as well as L-setup car. The motor already looks like it is 5mm~ further from the centerline than the 417. Will know more this weekend.
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by MDawson
It is inevitable that some tweaks might be needed. The T-setup with an uncut top deck seems to already have more chassis flex. Would have liked to have had the solution work with having to space the motor as far out as it is (without have to cut the motor shaft). The car seems to roll as well as L-setup car. The motor already looks like it is 5mm~ further from the centerline than the 417. Will know more this weekend.
The motor shaft thing is one thing I noticed... I've been rummaging through my pit box looking at various motors. The X12 series seem to have the shortest shaft (~13.3mm, motor face to tip), and get the motor pretty close in. The other motors I have seem to be in the 14.2-14.6mm range, except the Dualsky Z5 which is a whopping 17.2mm!!
Might be investing in a new mod motor if that config works out best after a bit of testing! Of course, the other option is to get another rotor and cut the shaft down, shouldn't be too hard to do for my other motors, have plenty of spare rotor's!

Last edited by TryHard; 01-09-2012 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:39 AM
  #1275  
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Originally Posted by MDawson
It is inevitable that some tweaks might be needed. The T-setup with an uncut top deck seems to already have more chassis flex. Would have liked to have had the solution work with having to space the motor as far out as it is (without have to cut the motor shaft). The car seems to roll as well as L-setup car. The motor already looks like it is 5mm~ further from the centerline than the 417. Will know more this weekend.
I've actually cut the top deck all the way through, its just two strips of carbon now. I was suffering from snap oversteer in fast sweepers. This is how I cured the problem with the 417 (not quite so drastic) and it worked with the A700 providing more stability. Just ordered the IAS hoping to calm the car further in high speed transitions whilst using less toe out

Also I run 1mm under the wishbones at the rear (equivalent to hingepin 8mm from underside of baseplate), 0.5mm in front. Similar to a typical 416/417 set up, and exactly where I run my Xray. Quite different from what others are doing but I couldn't make any sense of the car until I did this, just could not get the rotation and exit corner steering I wanted low and medium speed

Active castor rocks

Last edited by hana166; 10-11-2013 at 10:48 PM.
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