HPI's new F1
#496
Tech Master
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Trabuco Canyon-- in the Pines!!
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What I DON'T like about the car is the steering linkage---I've got to find a way to take some slop out of this belcrank setup HPI uses!!! That more than anything seems to lend to some steering "wander' that is hard to get out of.
And I need some caster for a little more high speed steering--then--we'll see how it performs at the next F-1 race.
FYI
Tim
#497
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I put a small shim/washer under the steering post and that eliminated some of the up/down slop. I also super glued the stock servo saver together and that helped a bit. However, I would have to agree that the car likes to wander a bit on the striaght. I'll try adjusting toe-in/toe out to see if that helps.
Thanks for the post on the "M" tires. Out of the package they seemed pretty hard. I'll mount them up and apply some traction compound and see how they do.
I didn't think about looking for 1/12 scale dampener grease/lube. There are some drivers racing 1/12 scale and WGT locally. I'll see if I can borrow some of their dampener lube. Personally I lightly sanded the stock HPI F10 friction discs and I felt that they were a bit smoother.
Thanks for the post on the "M" tires. Out of the package they seemed pretty hard. I'll mount them up and apply some traction compound and see how they do.
I didn't think about looking for 1/12 scale dampener grease/lube. There are some drivers racing 1/12 scale and WGT locally. I'll see if I can borrow some of their dampener lube. Personally I lightly sanded the stock HPI F10 friction discs and I felt that they were a bit smoother.
#498
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
OKAY--- well it was VERY interesting to say the least!! The soft rears STUCK the car to the track---and once I found some sauce for the tires--it was VERY close to what I think I want with S rears and M fronts. I haven't got any S fronts yet--but I was able to get very controlled steering with the s/m combo!! But as far as the kit tires---they are LIGHT years better!!! I believe with too much sauce and all S tires--the car could snap roll at Westcoast!! I think I'm going to experiment with some caster changes-- maybe a roll bar in the rear-- and the S and M tires are the BOMB!! I think it will make an excellent tuning combination depending on high bite to medium bite conditions.
What I DON'T like about the car is the steering linkage---I've got to find a way to take some slop out of this belcrank setup HPI uses!!! That more than anything seems to lend to some steering "wander' that is hard to get out of.
And I need some caster for a little more high speed steering--then--we'll see how it performs at the next F-1 race.
FYI
Tim
What I DON'T like about the car is the steering linkage---I've got to find a way to take some slop out of this belcrank setup HPI uses!!! That more than anything seems to lend to some steering "wander' that is hard to get out of.
And I need some caster for a little more high speed steering--then--we'll see how it performs at the next F-1 race.
FYI
Tim
For the slop I put orings over the ball ends on the servo link and foam spacers over the balls for the 2 steering links. Much less slop. Much testing to do also.
#499
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I'm hoping to get to Westcoast this sunday for some laps. I'm using S front and rears and am experiencing high speed push even with the front upper inner arms lowered 2mm for more camber. Maybe Westcoasts track will solve my push
For the slop I put orings over the ball ends on the servo link and foam spacers over the balls for the 2 steering links. Much less slop. Much testing to do also.
For the slop I put orings over the ball ends on the servo link and foam spacers over the balls for the 2 steering links. Much less slop. Much testing to do also.
#500
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
I'll report back next week on results. I can tell you now though I think the push problem is the front tire itself. It seems to be a different compound and firmer carcass then the rear even though it is clearly marked S. If I have to I will get an extra set of rears and cut and re-glue narrow for the front For now I will see if I can pry open the front tire bead so that I can remove the insert and re-test it sans insert.
#501
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I'll report back next week on results. I can tell you now though I think the push problem is the front tire itself. It seems to be a different compound and firmer carcass then the rear even though it is clearly marked S. If I have to I will get an extra set of rears and cut and re-glue narrow for the front For now I will see if I can pry open the front tire bead so that I can remove the insert and re-test it sans insert.
#503
Tech Master
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Trabuco Canyon-- in the Pines!!
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FYI -- The tire sauce that WC sells works very well on the rubber tires!! That's what made my tires work much better-- I don't have any S fronts--but the M fronts feel VERY close to the S rears?? If you're still experiencing push-- try lighter springs in the front-- I don't think I could use an S front--it would give me TOO much steering!!
FWIW
Tim
FWIW
Tim
#504
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
FYI -- The tire sauce that WC sells works very well on the rubber tires!! That's what made my tires work much better-- I don't have any S fronts--but the M fronts feel VERY close to the S rears?? If you're still experiencing push-- try lighter springs in the front-- I don't think I could use an S front--it would give me TOO much steering!!
FWIW
Tim
FWIW
Tim
#505
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
Well, I had an interesting day running the F10 at Wescoast Raceways high grip tarmac. The car was brilliant on the infield sections- push was under control, rear end was planted and carried a lot of speed with S tires front and back. Had a real problem though getting to the end of the long straight without losing the back end. Running a 21.5 w/ LRP SPX that felt ballistic. Just couldn't run full bore lap after lap on the straight. I tightened down the rear shock collar a touch thinking maybe the car was bottoming out but it seemed to not help. I noticed the front end of the car is porpoising badly down the straight and think this is causing the car to kick itself at top speed- kind of like a skate boarder doing an ollie. I'm afraid putting a firmer front spring will result in push but I may have to do it or maybe figure out a damping system for the front end. More testing to follow!
#508
Well, I had an interesting day running the F10 at Wescoast Raceways high grip tarmac. The car was brilliant on the infield sections- push was under control, rear end was planted and carried a lot of speed with S tires front and back. Had a real problem though getting to the end of the long straight without losing the back end. Running a 21.5 w/ LRP SPX that felt ballistic. Just couldn't run full bore lap after lap on the straight. I tightened down the rear shock collar a touch thinking maybe the car was bottoming out but it seemed to not help. I noticed the front end of the car is porpoising badly down the straight and think this is causing the car to kick itself at top speed- kind of like a skate boarder doing an ollie. I'm afraid putting a firmer front spring will result in push but I may have to do it or maybe figure out a damping system for the front end. More testing to follow!
Also on highbite track like westcoast, i suggest you to put thicker oil on the friction plate. (I used #4000 diff oil for westcoast setup) It was like perfect with "M" compound tires all around at that time.
Hope it helps a bit.
#509
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
Mike, when you need more off-power rear traction, you should go stiffer oil on the shock. Also you can angle the t-bar by adding o-ring between t-bar and screw holder.
Also on highbite track like westcoast, i suggest you to put thicker oil on the friction plate. (I used #4000 diff oil for westcoast setup) It was like perfect with "M" compound tires all around at that time.
Hope it helps a bit.
Also on highbite track like westcoast, i suggest you to put thicker oil on the friction plate. (I used #4000 diff oil for westcoast setup) It was like perfect with "M" compound tires all around at that time.
Hope it helps a bit.
I have CRC thick silicone for the pucks but only 25wt in the shock so I will go thicker on the shock. Add o ring at the front or back of the t-bar? Back yes?
#510
Tech Master
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Trabuco Canyon-- in the Pines!!
Posts: 1,769
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
I've been getting pretty good handling with S rear tires and M fronts. Although-- I was getting some of that inconsistant handling you're experiencing at high speeds. The steering linkage is near IMPOSSIBLE to get all the slop out of. I'm thinking of modifying my chassis top plate so I can mount the steering servo up front--use a Kimbro saver and direct link to the steering arms.--
I was able to run low 16 second runs with my F103 foam tire car--and low 17 second runs with the HPI rubber tire car on the same track last night at WC.
I'm thinking the car needs a rear sway bar---I'll be tinkering to see if that addition would work also>
FYI
Tim
I was able to run low 16 second runs with my F103 foam tire car--and low 17 second runs with the HPI rubber tire car on the same track last night at WC.
I'm thinking the car needs a rear sway bar---I'll be tinkering to see if that addition would work also>
FYI
Tim