Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree172Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-19-2013, 05:21 PM
  #5761  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 600
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Am I the only one that feels the opposite is true? The V2 has far more side bite, but less forward bite. The V1 can really put the power down, but really free the rear up when cornering.
At my track, everyone who ran barcodes, used v1. I'm pretty sure it was because it had better side bite.
shark2288 is offline  
Old 03-19-2013, 07:19 PM
  #5762  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 2,035
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

finally finished the build here are a couple of pics



Speedychris22 is offline  
Old 03-19-2013, 07:52 PM
  #5763  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
 
B00t13g's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,041
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

What dictates how you decide on what compound to run up front? I mean you could go super soft to get more steering, but why not make up for it with setup? Looking for how everyone decides on their front compound for 2wd?
B00t13g is offline  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:23 PM
  #5764  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Am I the only one that feels the opposite is true? The V2 has far more side bite, but less forward bite. The V1 can really put the power down, but really free the rear up when cornering.
On our track the V1 provides FAR better side bite, equal forward bite. You run the V2s if you want the rear end to free up.
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:21 PM
  #5765  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
Just1More's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 426
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Here is the RB6 vs. RB5 521 arms, both are the exact same length hinge pin to hinge pin.
Just1More is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:35 AM
  #5766  
Tech Master
iTrader: (29)
 
silvalis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,547
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Just1More
Here is the RB6 vs. RB5 521 arms, both are the exact same length hinge pin to hinge pin.
Wouldn't it make more sense to measure in a direct line from pin to pin for the RB6 arm?
silvalis is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 02:22 AM
  #5767  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (125)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 2,926
Trader Rating: 125 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America
On our track the V1 provides FAR better side bite, equal forward bite. You run the V2s if you want the rear end to free up.
+1

Originally Posted by Just1More
Here is the RB6 vs. RB5 521 arms, both are the exact same length hinge pin to hinge pin.
Still not sure what the 521-1 arms offer in terms of performance. I have a set I could try, but I like the way my rear is feelinng with v1Barcodes and don't get much time to test on race day.
kwiksi is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 05:26 AM
  #5768  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
 
Johnn27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: " The World's Most Famous Beach "
Posts: 2,309
Trader Rating: 89 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by kwiksi
+1



Still not sure what the 521-1 arms offer in terms of performance. I have a set I could try, but I like the way my rear is feelinng with v1Barcodes and don't get much time to test on race day.
I built and raced my car for the first 3 or 4 race days with gull wing arms and it was ok but the rear ride height was really low when you tried to get the rear drive shafts to level out as I adjusted the ride height.

I then changed over to the 521 arms and I noticed a difference in just ride height right away. It seemed to me anyway that the gull arms brought the rear of the car down too much and I think ride height on these cars, especially in the rear is critical to handling.

other than that I hear the 521's calm the car down and give you better roll center speed. More testing this weekend.
Johnn27 is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 05:58 AM
  #5769  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
kyle3333's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 460
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I am interested in switching to the 521 rear arms. A page or so back, someone mentioned that you need to change to medium shock ends to achieve the proper droop. Does anyone know what the part number is for medium shock ends?
kyle3333 is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:56 AM
  #5770  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kyle3333
I am interested in switching to the 521 rear arms. A page or so back, someone mentioned that you need to change to medium shock ends to achieve the proper droop. Does anyone know what the part number is for medium shock ends?
post #1
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:56 AM
  #5771  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: All 48 states...
Posts: 2,053
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone have a boosted 13.5 setup for the Orion Esc? Just need to get in the ballpark and I can workout the rest. Thanks!
Gitsum is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:58 AM
  #5772  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Johnn27
I built and raced my car for the first 3 or 4 race days with gull wing arms and it was ok but the rear ride height was really low when you tried to get the rear drive shafts to level out as I adjusted the ride height.

I then changed over to the 521 arms and I noticed a difference in just ride height right away. It seemed to me anyway that the gull arms brought the rear of the car down too much and I think ride height on these cars, especially in the rear is critical to handling.

other than that I hear the 521's calm the car down and give you better roll center speed. More testing this weekend.
The only difference between the 521s, and the gullwing arms, are how much/easily they flex/twist (and the fact that droop doesn't change on the gullwing arms when you change your lower shock mounting position). If you didn't change your shock collar placement and your shock ends to match droop from one type of arm to the other type of arm, that is what change you saw. The arm has nothing to do with ride height otherwise.
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 11:25 AM
  #5773  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,755
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America
The only difference between the 521s, and the gullwing arms, are how much/easily they flex/twist (and the fact that droop doesn't change on the gullwing arms when you change your lower shock mounting position). If you didn't change your shock collar placement and your shock ends to match droop from one type of arm to the other type of arm, that is what change you saw. The arm has nothing to do with ride height otherwise.
I believe he is right because of the big difference in hub height on the gullwing and since he is referencing ride height by being bones level. If he set ride height by the chassis, the bones will be angled differently with the 2 arms.
MikeXray is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:35 PM
  #5774  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
eper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: new milford, CT.
Posts: 2,622
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

if you guys are using the tebo set up with the 521 arms you should actually be running the short shock ends. do to the way the setup sheet is layed out i have seen quite a few people look at the sheet wrong and not use the correct shock end
eper is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 01:43 PM
  #5775  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MikeXray
I believe he is right because of the big difference in hub height on the gullwing and since he is referencing ride height by being bones level. If he set ride height by the chassis, the bones will be angled differently with the 2 arms.
The hub isn't higher with the gullwing, the shock mounting is just lower.. which is why you need longer shock ends. You can line up the hingepin holes in both arms, and everything lines up the exact same (geometry wise), except for how low the mounting holes are on the gullwing... which is why you run long shock ends with one arm, and shorts with the other. The angled section of the gullwing arm is so that droop doesn't change when you change mounting hole.

So when you switch to the rb5 arms, you run shorter ends, and move the shock collar up the same amount. Ride height doesn't change.

Last edited by Cpt.America; 03-20-2013 at 03:54 PM.
Cpt.America is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.