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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-19-2013, 05:21 PM
  #5761  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta View Post
Am I the only one that feels the opposite is true? The V2 has far more side bite, but less forward bite. The V1 can really put the power down, but really free the rear up when cornering.
At my track, everyone who ran barcodes, used v1. I'm pretty sure it was because it had better side bite.
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:19 PM
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finally finished the build here are a couple of pics



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Old 03-19-2013, 07:52 PM
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What dictates how you decide on what compound to run up front? I mean you could go super soft to get more steering, but why not make up for it with setup? Looking for how everyone decides on their front compound for 2wd?
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta View Post
Am I the only one that feels the opposite is true? The V2 has far more side bite, but less forward bite. The V1 can really put the power down, but really free the rear up when cornering.
On our track the V1 provides FAR better side bite, equal forward bite. You run the V2s if you want the rear end to free up.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:21 PM
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Here is the RB6 vs. RB5 521 arms, both are the exact same length hinge pin to hinge pin.
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Just1More View Post
Here is the RB6 vs. RB5 521 arms, both are the exact same length hinge pin to hinge pin.
Wouldn't it make more sense to measure in a direct line from pin to pin for the RB6 arm?
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
On our track the V1 provides FAR better side bite, equal forward bite. You run the V2s if you want the rear end to free up.
+1

Originally Posted by Just1More View Post
Here is the RB6 vs. RB5 521 arms, both are the exact same length hinge pin to hinge pin.
Still not sure what the 521-1 arms offer in terms of performance. I have a set I could try, but I like the way my rear is feelinng with v1Barcodes and don't get much time to test on race day.
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
+1



Still not sure what the 521-1 arms offer in terms of performance. I have a set I could try, but I like the way my rear is feelinng with v1Barcodes and don't get much time to test on race day.
I built and raced my car for the first 3 or 4 race days with gull wing arms and it was ok but the rear ride height was really low when you tried to get the rear drive shafts to level out as I adjusted the ride height.

I then changed over to the 521 arms and I noticed a difference in just ride height right away. It seemed to me anyway that the gull arms brought the rear of the car down too much and I think ride height on these cars, especially in the rear is critical to handling.

other than that I hear the 521's calm the car down and give you better roll center speed. More testing this weekend.
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:58 AM
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I am interested in switching to the 521 rear arms. A page or so back, someone mentioned that you need to change to medium shock ends to achieve the proper droop. Does anyone know what the part number is for medium shock ends?
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by kyle3333 View Post
I am interested in switching to the 521 rear arms. A page or so back, someone mentioned that you need to change to medium shock ends to achieve the proper droop. Does anyone know what the part number is for medium shock ends?
post #1
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:56 AM
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Does anyone have a boosted 13.5 setup for the Orion Esc? Just need to get in the ballpark and I can workout the rest. Thanks!
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
I built and raced my car for the first 3 or 4 race days with gull wing arms and it was ok but the rear ride height was really low when you tried to get the rear drive shafts to level out as I adjusted the ride height.

I then changed over to the 521 arms and I noticed a difference in just ride height right away. It seemed to me anyway that the gull arms brought the rear of the car down too much and I think ride height on these cars, especially in the rear is critical to handling.

other than that I hear the 521's calm the car down and give you better roll center speed. More testing this weekend.
The only difference between the 521s, and the gullwing arms, are how much/easily they flex/twist (and the fact that droop doesn't change on the gullwing arms when you change your lower shock mounting position). If you didn't change your shock collar placement and your shock ends to match droop from one type of arm to the other type of arm, that is what change you saw. The arm has nothing to do with ride height otherwise.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
The only difference between the 521s, and the gullwing arms, are how much/easily they flex/twist (and the fact that droop doesn't change on the gullwing arms when you change your lower shock mounting position). If you didn't change your shock collar placement and your shock ends to match droop from one type of arm to the other type of arm, that is what change you saw. The arm has nothing to do with ride height otherwise.
I believe he is right because of the big difference in hub height on the gullwing and since he is referencing ride height by being bones level. If he set ride height by the chassis, the bones will be angled differently with the 2 arms.
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:35 PM
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if you guys are using the tebo set up with the 521 arms you should actually be running the short shock ends. do to the way the setup sheet is layed out i have seen quite a few people look at the sheet wrong and not use the correct shock end
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I believe he is right because of the big difference in hub height on the gullwing and since he is referencing ride height by being bones level. If he set ride height by the chassis, the bones will be angled differently with the 2 arms.
The hub isn't higher with the gullwing, the shock mounting is just lower.. which is why you need longer shock ends. You can line up the hingepin holes in both arms, and everything lines up the exact same (geometry wise), except for how low the mounting holes are on the gullwing... which is why you run long shock ends with one arm, and shorts with the other. The angled section of the gullwing arm is so that droop doesn't change when you change mounting hole.

So when you switch to the rb5 arms, you run shorter ends, and move the shock collar up the same amount. Ride height doesn't change.

Last edited by Cpt.America; 03-20-2013 at 03:54 PM.
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