55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
06-08-2008, 11:15 AM
#4711
Ran my T4 for the first time last night and the first time ever with Lipos and BL. Unfotunately it was a load!. What are you guys doing that are running the lipos and not adding all of the weight back doing to compensate. It was just way to loose, both on and off throttle. It is basically the same setup as i see everyone else running with the exception of using the GT2 ront end. I think i remember seeing that the shock tower has a lower inner camber link mounting point. Is that going to give more or less sterring?
what packs were you running? what lipos? ..or what is the weight difference? My switch dropped 200 grams.
06-08-2008, 12:29 PM
#4712
I didn't use any formula for mine, I just added weight until it felt right. It was 3 ounces before I was happy with the handling, but I may add more next time we race.
I put 1.5 ounces of lead wheel weights down each side of the battery box in the center of the battery area to duplicate the wieght distribution as close as possible.
I would think it can work without adding weight, but you would need one or two softer springs in the front and two or three softer in back, I don't think they go that light? Lighter oil would be easy enough if the right springs were available.
Seems easier to just add some weight since the truck is great with NiMh batteries.
...Jim
W.E.D.
I put 1.5 ounces of lead wheel weights down each side of the battery box in the center of the battery area to duplicate the wieght distribution as close as possible.
I would think it can work without adding weight, but you would need one or two softer springs in the front and two or three softer in back, I don't think they go that light? Lighter oil would be easy enough if the right springs were available.
Seems easier to just add some weight since the truck is great with NiMh batteries.
...Jim
W.E.D.
06-08-2008, 04:26 PM
#4714
Slipper clutch not tightening
Hi guys I am new to the car world (i run boats) Anyways I have a rc10t4 and I can't get the slipper clutch dialed in. I continue to tighten it and it continues to slip. I bought the truck used. Any ideas on how to fix this.
Thanks, Kurt
Thanks, Kurt
06-08-2008, 07:05 PM
#4717
Tech Fanatic
I was running the 3600 Orion but i was only running 3 oz extra,1.5 in front of the battery and 1.5 in back of it. I know a lot of guys run 1.5 in the back with NiMh. The weight difference is 7oz on my wife culinary scale. I picked up some black rear and blue front springs and am going to try that first and went to 30 in the back and 35 in the front. I also took out all of the limiters in the back and left 2 in the front to try to get it to roll a little more as it seems side to side was my issue. Roll center is one thing i have never really gotten a grasp on though. if i lower the inside camber link mount is that going to give more traction at that end correct. In other words i have 2 spacers under the front inner mount on the shock tower, if i take one out it will have more steering. Is that right? I used to have the Xray tuning guide fro off road but i cant find it.
06-08-2008, 07:06 PM
#4718
Well handling will change as in a way it is now shorter, so you would get more - camber, or toe out (depends which one). That would change the way the car acts through the turn and when coming out of it. More - camber will help with coner traction to an extent, but it will hurt stright line traction. Also it can effect the way it tracks in a stright line (can make the car pull one way)
I have never had an issue with an AE titanium tie rod bending or breaking, but I have had a Lunsford one snap clean in two.
I have never had an issue with an AE titanium tie rod bending or breaking, but I have had a Lunsford one snap clean in two.
06-08-2008, 09:14 PM
#4719
Before you replace something you might not need to, make sure your diff is tight. Tighten the diff screw all the way down, then back it off about 1/4 of a turn. After you do that, lock the slipper all the way, and then back it out about 2-3 turns.
not at them
06-09-2008, 07:53 AM
#4721
My experience... the stock Ti blue ones can bend much easier than the thicker lunsford ti buckles. I've bent some back straight. the effect of bent buckles or tweaked ball cups will have inconsisent camber gains. When my car is inconsistent when it hasn't been, I check the camber first, tweak bunkles or loose balls studs.
06-09-2008, 08:09 AM
#4722
The rear swaybar kit? It's nice to have if you race on a smooth hard track (i.e., indoor clay). They're not a huge adjustment, the softest bar can hardly be felt, and the stiffest one might require someone with some driving experience to feel the difference.
Best time I had using them was a period in time where S&N's Trackside would start off tacky & favor slick tires, but by the Mains it would dry out and people would start bringing out fuzzies and ribs. My fuzzy tire setup was Panther Switch 2.0 in Clay compound in back, and up front was the Panther Micro-Burner in Super Soft because that's all they had. If all I did was change tires the slightly harder fronts would make the truck push, but just by slapping on the medium or stiff rear swaybar the problem was cured.
Best time I had using them was a period in time where S&N's Trackside would start off tacky & favor slick tires, but by the Mains it would dry out and people would start bringing out fuzzies and ribs. My fuzzy tire setup was Panther Switch 2.0 in Clay compound in back, and up front was the Panther Micro-Burner in Super Soft because that's all they had. If all I did was change tires the slightly harder fronts would make the truck push, but just by slapping on the medium or stiff rear swaybar the problem was cured.
06-09-2008, 10:06 AM
#4723
I use to run a rear sway bar at the indoor track's older layout that had a large flat sweeper. It gave me more side bite (corner speed) and let me get on the power sooner. Also helps in chicanes. Been running outdoors w/o any but I may try it...I've just been working on my throttle control thru the high speed sweeper..but it'd be great if I didn't have to lift as much to get it to turn.
06-09-2008, 10:19 AM
#4724
Well basically what a rear swaybar does is make the truck act a bit like its got a solid rear axle instead of independent suspension. Normally with independent suspension, one side can travel up and down and there's zero effect on the other side. When you add a swaybar, as the outside wheel travels up it torques the swaybar, and when that force gets transmitted to the inside wheel it negates some of the downward force of the spring. Simply put, as you go through a turn the rear swaybar tries to lift the inside tire off the track. As you put on thicker and thicker bars, the truck takes more and more weight off that inside rear tire. It'll loosen a truck up because now it's only running on 3 tires.
The reason you'd only want to use a swaybar on a smooth track is on a rough surface, you want each corner of the suspension to do its own thing when going over bumps. If you're using swaybars, one side of the truck might be absorbing a hit while the other side is dropping into a hole, and because the swaybar connects the two sides they end up fighting each other and the truck won't be able to track straight.
The reason you'd only want to use a swaybar on a smooth track is on a rough surface, you want each corner of the suspension to do its own thing when going over bumps. If you're using swaybars, one side of the truck might be absorbing a hit while the other side is dropping into a hole, and because the swaybar connects the two sides they end up fighting each other and the truck won't be able to track straight.
