Hot Bodies Cyclone
Check to make sure your chassis is perfectly straight. Remove the shocks from the car, and loosen all the top deck and rear deck screws. I usually take droop blocks on a hard, perfectly flat surface (glass, hudy setup board, or anything similar). Then I set the car on the droop blocks and make sure they aren't sitting directly under any screws, press down on the shock towers. While the shock towers are being pressed down, tighten the screws in a X pattern.
Also, sometimes tires with really large airgaps, or poor mounting jobs can make for a weird shaped tire that will throw the tweak off.
If that still has you in a tweaky situation, make sure your bulkheads are straight by taking them off the car and testing them on a peice of glass. Just lightly tap long the bulkhead while it's laying down on the glass to see if it rocks around or anything. I do periodically to my car to keep things in check.
The suspension blocks are suspect to being a little out of whack sometimes. They can twist the chassis if they are REALLY bad, but check and make sure they are flat anyway.
Hope that helps you out
-Korey
Also, sometimes tires with really large airgaps, or poor mounting jobs can make for a weird shaped tire that will throw the tweak off.
If that still has you in a tweaky situation, make sure your bulkheads are straight by taking them off the car and testing them on a peice of glass. Just lightly tap long the bulkhead while it's laying down on the glass to see if it rocks around or anything. I do periodically to my car to keep things in check.
The suspension blocks are suspect to being a little out of whack sometimes. They can twist the chassis if they are REALLY bad, but check and make sure they are flat anyway.
Hope that helps you out
-Korey
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
FRONT END IS TOGETHER.......TIME FOR LUNCH!!!!! THIS THING ISN'T GOING TO GET FINISHED UNTIL TOMORROW IF I DON'T FINISH BEFORE FOOTBALL PRACTICE.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Skip Lunch! I'm secretly rooting for you STLNLST...time to put a dent in the Tamiya Crew's egos There are more Tamiyas at Marin than anything usually. I run Associated but we both believe in Novak so it gives us some common ground.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
The Novak is in a box airtight with lasers just in front of the entry door.....LOL It will stay there until the car is ready for it to be installed. I can't wait to break up the Tamiya group. You know I ran the TCS warm up race they had at norcal and TQ'ed and won with a field of Tamiya's....LOL I plan on making lighting strike twice come this Sunday......LOL
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
TheCoolCanFanMan- Shock length is 64.0mm front and rear. The smaller shims under the suspension blocks smooth it out and provide more traction mid corner. 5mm ride height is what I always run for the most part. The losi droop guage should be fine. I personally use the hudy droop guage and blocks. Gap on the roll bar mount is just the stock setting. I'm using the newer swaybar mounts so the gap is just to adjust/compensate for tweak in the swaybar. Losi shock oil is a tiny bit thinner than associated if I remember right, but like 2.5-5.0 wt thinner.
Timmay- I have the TC kit, and I noticed the front suspension pivots are actually machined so they have clearance for the steering linkage to move around. Hara used to actually just take a dremel and grind the suspension pivot untill it had enough room.
-Korey
Timmay- I have the TC kit, and I noticed the front suspension pivots are actually machined so they have clearance for the steering linkage to move around. Hara used to actually just take a dremel and grind the suspension pivot untill it had enough room.
-Korey
The Novak is in a box airtight with lasers just in front of the entry door.....LOL It will stay there until the car is ready for it to be installed. I can't wait to break up the Tamiya group. You know I ran the TCS warm up race they had at norcal and TQ'ed and won with a field of Tamiya's....LOL I plan on making lighting strike twice come this Sunday......LOL
Now HURRY!!! FINISH IT!
Also, the speed must have broke free, I see it in the 2nd pic You need better security!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
there are two new one's waiting to go into something. One for on raod and the other off road. That one pictured is one that Scotty and I are gonna test with first thing Sunday morning. We have a few ideas from the Speedworld cup that we have been waiting to try my next time out.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
there are two new one's waiting to go into something. One for on raod and the other off road. That one pictured is one that Scotty and I are gonna test with first thing Sunday morning. We have a few ideas from the Speedworld cup that we have been waiting to try my next time out.
I have noticed that on most of the set up I have found that the spacers under the front pivot blocks are higher on the rear. Am I reading this right?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Mostly all of the set up's have 1.5mm spacers front and rear. The set up's with 1.0FF and 1.5FR are set up's with anti dive. Which set up's are you looking at that have the front higher than the rear?
i know i have front kick up in my setup (1.5 FF .5FR) but i also run an extremely bumpy track
there are two new one's waiting to go into something. One for on raod and the other off road. That one pictured is one that Scotty and I are gonna test with first thing Sunday morning. We have a few ideas from the Speedworld cup that we have been waiting to try my next time out.
Modding a speedo, I will have to be there for that next race. Any chances it will go boooom?