yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Thank you sir...trying to get re-aquainted with the Cyclone quirks

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

lol, and as far as the shock piston i m pretty sure that I used Tamiya ones on my cyclone a while back.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Tamiya pistons work great so far. The 3 hole pistons are a good alternative to the HB 1.1mm 3 hole pistons that are common on the more recent setups for the car.

-Korey

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Thanks Korey...are u also running 3 hole pistons?

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

i thought you were running a 416?

i ran the 3hole tamiyas on my cyclone (when i had it.) worked great.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Yes 3 hole is a best choice ,
but Tamiya piston too soft !

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I'm running 3 hole pistons with 45wt up front, and 40wt in the rear. The 2 hole pistons I think work better when the grip is really high... but just run 30-35 wt oil. It'll have the same overall feel, but pack up a little faster.

I just think the 3 hole setup is better for most tracks

-Korey

TheCoolCanFanMan

You or any of the guys got any setups for the TC yet, as I keep trying things but end up going back to kit setup
Cheers Malc

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I can post my current setup for a high traction indoor track. The kit setup is pretty good for the most part too.

Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: AE 45wt
Piston: tamiya 3 hole
Rebound: 75% with the foam
Shock position: #2 on the new suspension arm, #3 on the tower
Swaybar: 1.4mm
Caster: 4 deg
Camber: 2 deg
Upper Link: long, with 3mm under the inner pivot
Arm sweep/toe block: 2.0 deg
Shims under suspension blocks: FF=1.0 FR=1.0mm
Droop: 6mm off a droop gauge
Ackerman: 4mm on the center arm and position #2 on the steering knuckle
Front Drive: Spool

Rear:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Silver
Oil: AE 40wt
Piston: Tamiya 3 holes
Rebound: 75% with the foam
Shock Position: #2 on the new suspension arm, and #4 on the tower
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Camber: 2 deg
Upper Link: long on the bulkhead, inner position on the rear hub, 1.5mm under the inner pivot
Rear Toe: 2.0 deg
Shims under suspension blocks: RF= 1.5mm RR= 1.5mm
Droop: 6mm off gauge

Wheelbase: stock on everything
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6
Tires: Speedmind/Sorex 36R premounts

cyclone speed

hi guys , i have a probleme on my hb cyclone . my probleme is the folowing situation:

every time i wont to set equal droop left right 5mm , then once the droop is set i lift the car at its centerline and both wheel dont lift at the same time . i dont know whats wrong because i set the ride height , adjust tweak , but when it comes to the droop i have to put 3mm droop right and 6mm droop left for both wheel to lift at the same time but my car still drives well . My shock lenght are equal left right but i dont know whats the probleme.and also for droop when i set droop 3mm and 6mm my car has 4mm uptravel and both wheel lift at the same timewith 4mm uptravel .

And also for adjusting the tweak when the tweak is equal left right ,
the ride height is fine but the spring collar between them it has 4mm diference

thanks alot if you cuold help me out thanks

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Check to make sure your chassis is perfectly straight. Remove the shocks from the car, and loosen all the top deck and rear deck screws. I usually take droop blocks on a hard, perfectly flat surface (glass, hudy setup board, or anything similar). Then I set the car on the droop blocks and make sure they aren't sitting directly under any screws, press down on the shock towers. While the shock towers are being pressed down, tighten the screws in a X pattern.

Also, sometimes tires with really large airgaps, or poor mounting jobs can make for a weird shaped tire that will throw the tweak off.

If that still has you in a tweaky situation, make sure your bulkheads are straight by taking them off the car and testing them on a peice of glass. Just lightly tap long the bulkhead while it's laying down on the glass to see if it rocks around or anything. I do periodically to my car to keep things in check.

The suspension blocks are suspect to being a little out of whack sometimes. They can twist the chassis if they are REALLY bad, but check and make sure they are flat anyway.

Hope that helps you out

-Korey

cyclone speed

thanks i will try everything but i think that my chassi is twisted because it rocks side to side. And also tyre did have a big air gap
Thanks

timmaay

when adding 4mm of shims to the servo saver the stock ball studs are too short to thread in. does anyone know what length to get for a new set of ball studs so that they will thread, and if so where?
thanks!

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Cyclone Speed- Yea... thats not good. But when you fix that, the tweak problem should go away!!!

Timmmmmmmaaaaaaaaaaayyyyy- I think there are two sizes. I use the ball studs that are 13mm in length and they work good.

-Korey

TheCoolCanFanMan

Thanks for that Korey
What overal length do you have your shocks, do they differ from front to rear?

So you have done away with 2mm all round under the sus blocks, infact you are quite away from a stock setup.

What ride hight front and rear?

I use a Losi droop gauge which sits on the bottom of the chassis and work the measurement from the end of the wish bone, would it still be 6mm droop in this case?

Do you have a gap on the roll bar mount, as per the instructions?

I use Losi oil for my shocks, what is the difference in viscosity relation to the AE oil, if any is there?
Cheers Malc