Mabuchi540

Well yes but I should be feeling anything but a smooth roll so to speak if i've just opened the packet surely?

pops

iTrader: (1)

Just clean them with motor spray and spin them on a sharpend pencil, if they spin up they are OK. They should spin quite a long time, if they don't spin up, they're bad.

Mabuchi540

Do I need to take the sheilds of for this? And re-lube with what?

rc_bam226

A thin lubricating oil, such as Trinity Royal Oil #RC4051, or any other synthetic bearing oil, which is thin, and flows kinda like water.

rovic

the right thing to do is return them from where you got them; if its a lhs, open the exchanged set and test the each before accepting them.

you are not to fix or atemp to fix any defective parts; it voids any warranty and/or exchange you maybe intitled to.

nobodys quality control is perfect; thats why they warranty their products.

pops

iTrader: (1)

If they are Yokomo bearings you will not have a problem in returning them, as long as you have not used them. You had to open the package in order to find out what you know and have now. Do not remove the seals though.
But if you really believe they are gritty, just return them, ceramics are expensive, and you should have good ones. I've used a couple of sets of Yokomo ceramics and have never had any problems.

Mabuchi540

to late for the wheel bearings I took the sheilds off already. But here is what happened.

After cleaning them as suggested they did indeed spin remarkably freely.

However I then put the mearest drop of oil on them and of course they slow down a little bit but still all good but it's when I put the sheilds back on I noticed the problem as first mentioned returned.

So out comes the manifying glass to have a good look (and one of the other non wheel bearings in the kit to compare).

It appears on very close inspection that in at least one spot of every wheel bearing there is no viewable gap between the (I hope this make sense) the inner edge of the sheild and the outer edge of the center roller.

Sheild off no problems though. If they were anything but the wheel bearings I'd just take the sheilds off.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Yokomo is going to be selling Masami and Rayspeed versions of the KO ESC here shortly, they come out next month in japan, not sure on the release date for the states. www.yokomousa.com has the info in the new products section under february.

SalvadoriRacing

so now there are SIX versions of the same speed in the market......

KO, HARA, CORALLY, TAMIYA, YOKOMO and RAYSPEED.....

rovic

someday i will be good enough to run bearings with the grease cleaned out of them, for now im just learning what the different camberlink positions and setups do for the car.

you have to go slow, to go fast. quote from ae team manager.

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

Funny I could have sworn that the ESC Masami used to win the Worlds was the GM Racing SX12W in fact I am almost certain. So How could he have used the Ko Propo ESC????Just seem awfull fishy,,,,,
Just my two pennies.
Stephen <><

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

I don't think Matt was saying Masami used his up-n-coming version of the KO; from what I read he was just saying that Yokomo is coming out with these versions. And even if Masami did...

- JB

daniz24

Yes, I believe Masami's using GM ESC for both class at the Worlds.
For JMRCA he use KO VFS for 1:12 class. Dunno what he have used for the JMRCA 1:10 TC class

ritchie

i can't find where matt said anyone used anything to win anything with. maybe its just me.

rovic, yea, i heard something about slower is faster.

rovic

ritchie,
how are things in the nw., the more i drive this cgm the faster it gets.

got a tip for you.
testing on gear ratios; run the 48p 72t spur. ive found that its surprisingly faster on acceleration than similar geared 64p spurs. it wont work well if you run lower than 10t.