Serpent 710
Originally posted by Zizu
You either have one hell of a tough car or the one that I got is dodgy.But I don't believe that mine's dodgy as I got it from a reliable serpent dealer.Yup everything is built spot on and for your info this is my 5th car.Others are MTX3,RREvo,2 G4s and this.Unless serpent comes up with universals than I think some of these problems could be solved.
You either have one hell of a tough car or the one that I got is dodgy.But I don't believe that mine's dodgy as I got it from a reliable serpent dealer.Yup everything is built spot on and for your info this is my 5th car.Others are MTX3,RREvo,2 G4s and this.Unless serpent comes up with universals than I think some of these problems could be solved.
They are going to be releasing the universals for the 950R soon.
Re: Assembly Questions
Thanks InitialD and Pyramid for your feed back
I take from your feed back that you would not use the spacers in the uprighs?
Thanks again for all the info.
I take from your feed back that you would not use the spacers in the uprighs?
Thanks again for all the info.
Tech Adept
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Serpent is supposed to make universals for the 710.
They are going to be releasing the universals for the 950R soon.
Serpent is supposed to make universals for the 710.
They are going to be releasing the universals for the 950R soon.
Originally posted by Zizu
Yup but then again these things are supposed to be available months couple of months back.3 racing makes one but it's crap.
Yup but then again these things are supposed to be available months couple of months back.3 racing makes one but it's crap.
Did you try the fuel tubing in the Driveshaft adaptor (802248)?
Tech Adept
Originally posted by PSI Racing
What front track width are you running?
Did you try the fuel tubing in the Driveshaft adaptor (802248)?
What front track width are you running?
Did you try the fuel tubing in the Driveshaft adaptor (802248)?
Originally posted by Zizu
I gone through from 200 to 197 with oneway up front and even gone down to 196 with front diff.Yup tried fuel tubing,spring and even the bearing trick.
I gone through from 200 to 197 with oneway up front and even gone down to 196 with front diff.Yup tried fuel tubing,spring and even the bearing trick.
I had a similar problem with my Impulse.
It ended up being a worn out wheel axle.
Re: Re: Assembly Questions
Originally posted by wolfejohne
I take from your feed back that you would not use the spacers in the uprighs?
I take from your feed back that you would not use the spacers in the uprighs?
Why didn`t I have problems with bones pops out even with 808220 at 199mm while others have? All I could think of maybe because of previous hard crash, A arms bents, then lead to loosing dogbone on another hard crash..
D.. can you give other scenarios? not if using front diff, one way still ok lah..
Originally posted by Zizu
I'll try not to but I'm no Surikarn
I'll try not to but I'm no Surikarn
Originally posted by Zizu
Yup but then again these things are supposed to be available months couple of months back.3 racing makes one but it's crap.
Yup but then again these things are supposed to be available months couple of months back.3 racing makes one but it's crap.
Re: Re: Re: Assembly Questions
Originally posted by Pyramid
D.. can you give other scenarios? not if using front diff, one way still ok lah..
D.. can you give other scenarios? not if using front diff, one way still ok lah..
Anyway, I seem to think that you will break the dogbones more often when the wheel axle (801215 or 801214) groove slots catches the dogbone shaft. More so when you hit something at the same time your steering is in full lock position and at the same time you're on throttle !
That will either dislodge the dogbone out of the cups (you loose the dogbones) or just snap them ! I notice that they all snap at the end where it's nearest to the wheel axles.
I guess that was the reason why Julius preferred to put the fuel tubing spacers in the oneway drive adaptors or the adaptors of the front ball diff and not at the wheel axles side as most people would normally do. This would ensure that the dogbones do not sit deep into the wheel axle and hence less chance of the wheel axle groove slots catching the dogbone shafts on a full lock turn.
Solution? Set your steering travel so that it does NOT go beyond the physical limitations of the steering EPA. If you're not getting enough steering or turn radius on your track, you just need to set the car properly. Put the spacers / fuel tubings as per what Julius has recommended (not on the wheel axle side but on the oneway drive adaptors side and lastly, don't hit anything !
Re: Re: Re: Re: Assembly Questions
Originally posted by InitialD
That will either dislodge the dogbone out of the cups (you loose the dogbones) or just snap them ! I notice that they all snap at the end where it's nearest to the wheel axles.
I guess that was the reason why Julius preferred to put the fuel tubing spacers in the oneway drive adaptors or the adaptors of the front ball diff and not at the wheel axles side as most people would normally do. This would ensure that the dogbones do not sit deep into the wheel axle and hence less chance of the wheel axle groove slots catching the dogbone shafts on a full lock turn.
Solution? Set your steering travel so that it does NOT go beyond the physical limitations of the steering EPA. If you're not getting enough steering or turn radius on your track, you just need to set the car properly. Put the spacers / fuel tubings as per what Julius has recommended (not on the wheel axle side but on the oneway drive adaptors side and lastly, don't hit anything !
That will either dislodge the dogbone out of the cups (you loose the dogbones) or just snap them ! I notice that they all snap at the end where it's nearest to the wheel axles.
I guess that was the reason why Julius preferred to put the fuel tubing spacers in the oneway drive adaptors or the adaptors of the front ball diff and not at the wheel axles side as most people would normally do. This would ensure that the dogbones do not sit deep into the wheel axle and hence less chance of the wheel axle groove slots catching the dogbone shafts on a full lock turn.
Solution? Set your steering travel so that it does NOT go beyond the physical limitations of the steering EPA. If you're not getting enough steering or turn radius on your track, you just need to set the car properly. Put the spacers / fuel tubings as per what Julius has recommended (not on the wheel axle side but on the oneway drive adaptors side and lastly, don't hit anything !
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, has TM come out with a workable steering solution for G4 yet?
Ummm, has TM come out with a workable steering solution for G4 yet?
hope Mr. Giant don`t see this.. he is as die hard as you D.. just different brand
By the way.. G4 1/2 is on the way...
Tech Fanatic
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Assembly Questions
Originally posted by Julius
The problem with fuel tubing on the inside is that the dogbone get's pushed in the wheelaxle. At large steering throws this can lead to the dogbone contacting the axle. It then takes only a board jumping in front of your car to break the dogbone. That is why I use the fuel tubing on the wheelaxle.
The problem with fuel tubing on the inside is that the dogbone get's pushed in the wheelaxle. At large steering throws this can lead to the dogbone contacting the axle. It then takes only a board jumping in front of your car to break the dogbone. That is why I use the fuel tubing on the wheelaxle.
We have some thought from our last testing. I did try your setup w/front diff, constant line is in on the top of my comments.
Than I try Mark Green setup (GP Halifax TC), fast! yet smooth enough in low speed steering.
Then we realize, that Mark Green setup is 90% stock!!
Even Pyramid said this is unbelievable, this car were using "Running-Change Geometry" Coz, when 1st testing with stock setup the car is far from what we feel now.
There is only 1 difference, rear DIFFERENTIAL !!
When it perfect, the setup is very wide with each unique characteristic.
So, wouldn't be nice if the kit comes with pre-built rear diff ?
If that sounds impossible (I understand Hollands labor cost) is this the perfect time to release bevel diff as a standard in kit ?
We all know it is easier to build bevel diff (no gritty feeling)
Just my 2 rupiah (getting better know)
Originally posted by Pyramid
hope Mr. Giant don`t see this.. he is as die hard as you D.. just different brand
hope Mr. Giant don`t see this.. he is as die hard as you D.. just different brand
Mr. Giant will come back to say "What steering problems?"
SER-802136 and SER-802241
Those option parts should be available by early next week on your LHS!
Those option parts should be available by early next week on your LHS!