Tamiya TRF417
#1186
Tech Master
#1189
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
Finally.....
After Pre-ording my 417 and recieving in late Dec '10 I have been enduring the wait till now while my 417 sat on the shelf at home while I worked overseas. After a long 3 months I have now built it and will be racing it this weekend (please don't rain, sob sob)....
Here are some pic's before I drive it in anger, hahaha
Here are some pic's before I drive it in anger, hahaha
#1191
Tech Initiate
48 pitch
If anyone is looking to run a 48 pitch spur I have used an Xray spur and drilled two extra holes to fit the Tamyia spur holder and it fits like a charm. A must for racers racing on asphalt outdoors. If anybody has a 48pitch which fits without modification please let me know.
#1192
Tech Regular
If anyone is looking to run a 48 pitch spur I have used an Xray spur and drilled two extra holes to fit the Tamyia spur holder and it fits like a charm. A must for racers racing on asphalt outdoors. If anybody has a 48pitch which fits without modification please let me know.
#1193
Tech Adept
Inner Camber Link Height
HI All
Just interested in understanding what changing the inner camber link height does, at that end of the car;
1. raising/lowering the front inner camber link - keeping all other bits equal
2. raising/lowering the rear camber link - keeping all other bits equal
I plan to fiddle with these settings next time I get a test day, ie change the front from 4-6mm over a couple of runs, and the rear from 3-5mm over a couple of runs and see if i can tie my findings back to what you think they should be (note i realise these changes are extreme, but i'm not good enough to feel the difference of a 0.5mm change but plan to at least have the learning there so i can make a minor change if needed at a big meeting)
Thanks
Mark
Just interested in understanding what changing the inner camber link height does, at that end of the car;
1. raising/lowering the front inner camber link - keeping all other bits equal
2. raising/lowering the rear camber link - keeping all other bits equal
I plan to fiddle with these settings next time I get a test day, ie change the front from 4-6mm over a couple of runs, and the rear from 3-5mm over a couple of runs and see if i can tie my findings back to what you think they should be (note i realise these changes are extreme, but i'm not good enough to feel the difference of a 0.5mm change but plan to at least have the learning there so i can make a minor change if needed at a big meeting)
Thanks
Mark
#1194
Tech Elite
iTrader: (58)
The Tamiya 64 pitch spurs are killa, we have been running nearly every weeekend on asphalt and have not gone through one yet.
Rhys
Rhys
If anyone is looking to run a 48 pitch spur I have used an Xray spur and drilled two extra holes to fit the Tamyia spur holder and it fits like a charm. A must for racers racing on asphalt outdoors. If anybody has a 48pitch which fits without modification please let me know.
#1197
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
HI All
Just interested in understanding what changing the inner camber link height does, at that end of the car;
1. raising/lowering the front inner camber link - keeping all other bits equal
2. raising/lowering the rear camber link - keeping all other bits equal
I plan to fiddle with these settings next time I get a test day, ie change the front from 4-6mm over a couple of runs, and the rear from 3-5mm over a couple of runs and see if i can tie my findings back to what you think they should be (note i realise these changes are extreme, but i'm not good enough to feel the difference of a 0.5mm change but plan to at least have the learning there so i can make a minor change if needed at a big meeting)
Thanks
Mark
Just interested in understanding what changing the inner camber link height does, at that end of the car;
1. raising/lowering the front inner camber link - keeping all other bits equal
2. raising/lowering the rear camber link - keeping all other bits equal
I plan to fiddle with these settings next time I get a test day, ie change the front from 4-6mm over a couple of runs, and the rear from 3-5mm over a couple of runs and see if i can tie my findings back to what you think they should be (note i realise these changes are extreme, but i'm not good enough to feel the difference of a 0.5mm change but plan to at least have the learning there so i can make a minor change if needed at a big meeting)
Thanks
Mark
1) change the amount camber change
2) change the roll centre
With the first, a more shims will make for a flatter link, which in turn will reduce the amount of camber change as the car rolls. Now, as your probably aware, it's a bit of a balancing act. You want camber change to maintain good amount of grip (i.e. keep the most amount of tyre in contact with the road as possible) as the car rolls, but too much, and the car will become snappy. This is because if the camber becomes too much, the tyre's will rapidly loose grip.
In effect, more camber change (less shims) should give you more grip, but a snappier car to drive, whilst less camber change (more shims) will give less overall grip, but a more progressive and consistent car.
However... this is balanced against lowering the rollcentre (more shims), which will naturally make that end of the car want to roll less, so less grip. Interestingly though, out of the three main alterations that affect the roll centre (inner lower pivot, outer upper pivot, and inner upper pivot), the inner camber link as the least effect on the roll centre placement.
As such, I tend to use the inner shims (and link placement) more as an alteration of the camber change than roll centre. If I want to adjust the roll-centre, first will be shims under the suspension blocks, then the outer hub. Last of all would be the inner camber link.
Don't forget as well that the link position has a big effect as well, to both the Roll centre and camber change. If you have time, it's worth trying different amount of shims along with different link positons, and see what works best for you.
Personally, I like the longest link with the kit shims. Seem to find the kit link a bit too nervous for my tastes, and more shims roll too much. But it's worth trying to see what suits you vest.
HiH
Ed
#1199
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
C rating on my batts, well, I use 5600mah 50C's, seem more than pokey enough!
HiH
Ed
#1200
Tech Champion
iTrader: (91)
Getting my 417 ready for next weekend new lids on the way for those that are looking for a really good painter send an email to [email protected]