gido

Ok, I see what you mean about the layshaft spring steel...I've never tried it because I believe it's heavier than the aluminum solid layshaft. I prefer lightening that area beacause it is probably the most constant moving part.

Try it out and see for yourself what is best suited for you...if budget will allow it

evaa

iTrader: (7)

yep i plan on doing that, i know decreasing weight on the rotating mass is one of the secrets to speed.

happy racing

vassago

If you are racing the car you really need the ALU shock bodies in de rear. The plastics ones will break if you are hit from behind.

OleC

Thanks rough512 & evaa!

I have been to MYtsn so I will try some of what I found there.

Front:
Caster: 3mm clips
Camber: 1° neg.
Kickup: 0°
Servo saver position: ?
Eccentric upper arm position: Front holders upper hole / Rear Holder lower hole
One way diff
Springs: White short
Shock oil: 30WT
Damping: 2 holes closed
Shock top position: Outer hole, original T1 tower
Shock bottom position: Outer hole
Ride height: 5 mm
Toe in/out: 1° out
Droop setting: 2mm


Rear:
Camber: 1,5° neg.
Kickup: 0°, arms raised to top position
Wheelbase: middle (don’t remember how many mm’s)
One way centre layshaft tightened 100%
Springs: Yellow (Serpent)
Shock oil: 30WT
Damping: 1 hole closed
Shock top position: Outer hole, original T1 tower
Shock bottom position: Outer hole
Camber link: Long and high on rear hub.
Ride height: 6 mm
Droop setting: 4mm

Balancing weights:
50g in the middle of chassis, between electronics
10g on each side of chassis rear


Rubber tires, Sorex 36
Protoform Stratus body, std wing

@rough512: I have not looked into the reactive caster. Can you explain?

Sleighty

Hey Guys,

Can somebody tell me where i can buy - XR-302000 (Alu suspension adjustable bulkheads + free tool set) from? anywhere which has an online website would be nice. I cant find this part anywhere

cheers

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

www.ashfordhobby.com
www.serpent-usa.com

HEWITT

iTrader: (14)

anyone got a x ray t1 for sale

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

i got the main chassis, bulkheads, and extras. PM Me.

evaa

iTrader: (7)

i beleive even a strong hit wont really shatter the plastic shock bodies, was runnin last night, and coz of set up problems, my car was fishtailing all over, had several hits, rather bad ones, especially in the rea, with no damage being brought upon the shocks.

hence, i think in terms of durability, those plastic shocks are unquestionably tough.

vassago

Yeah, right.

Theywill break if you are hit, seen it happen lots of times. I think you are just lucky so far.

evaa

iTrader: (7)

sure am, glad it hasnt hapened to me, have you replaced your plastic shock bodies with the alum ones? did you notice any change?

vassago

4 weeks ago I raced at a clubrace, my car was standing on the grid when a car hit my rear at full speed.(the idiot was doing a warmup lap).
After the start I noticed a rear shock had come loose and I stopped after 1 lap.
In the 2nd final the same thing happened with another car. That car was using the composite shock bodies and one broke.

I don't know if you will notice a difference. I am just finishing my 2nd car which will have composite shocks so maybe I will notice a difference. May not.
(I plan to take the 2 alu. shocks off the front of my first car and put them on the rear of the second car)

AdR|aN

evaa.
Get the Alu shock housing.
Its worth the money and less pain during race day.
Furthermore, its easier to screw in the cap and the adjuster.
It wont be so easy to strip the thread on the shock body too.
As for performance, cant see or feel any.

840918001

Yo guys check this out!

X-ray is testing a new chassisplate!

840918001

And another picture of the new chassisplate.