Yokomo MR-4 TC Thread
#1471
Tech Adept
which hex drivers should i use, ball or normal and why?
#1472
Tech Rookie
speedo and simon k
thanks again... you guys really help newbies a lot ill try them out and inform you bout the outcome...again..thanks
okidoki
okidoki
#1473
Tech Adept
okidoki,
yup i'm going there this saturday. be there too. i can help you build that rear diff if you want. i'll try to show you the loose, neutral and tight in screw setting.
yup i'm going there this saturday. be there too. i can help you build that rear diff if you want. i'll try to show you the loose, neutral and tight in screw setting.
#1474
Tech Rookie
maski
ill be there bro..... wanted to try the place before the 1st phil. rc shoot out on the 20th
#1475
Tech Adept
could anyone answer my question of which is better for yoke screws, ball hex or normal hex?
#1477
Tech Adept
thank you for the info mo
#1478
Tech Adept
Question regarding cut down rear hubs:
In most if the set up sheets I've seen, when running cut down rear hubs, the camber link is now in the upper/outer hole on the shock tower. I carried out the mod and what I found was the camber link is still the same length as when I ran the standard hubs mounted in the upper/inner hole.
What my question is then: Can I still move / lengthen the camber link to the upper/inner hole and if so am I right in thinking this should give more grip (in theory).
One last question: What degree of toe in does the Special kit rear hubs have. 1 deg?
Thanks,
Yorkie
In most if the set up sheets I've seen, when running cut down rear hubs, the camber link is now in the upper/outer hole on the shock tower. I carried out the mod and what I found was the camber link is still the same length as when I ran the standard hubs mounted in the upper/inner hole.
What my question is then: Can I still move / lengthen the camber link to the upper/inner hole and if so am I right in thinking this should give more grip (in theory).
One last question: What degree of toe in does the Special kit rear hubs have. 1 deg?
Thanks,
Yorkie
#1479
I try not to use the Yok screws at all. I order the 2mm and other sizes that most cars use. If I can't find the right size I dremel or sand them down to the right size. They are cheaper and don't strip as easy. Also most other RC cars use these types of screws so they work on my other cars. I have yet to find the size for the arms that hold in the small hinge pins yet......those seem to strip the worst.
#1480
Yorkie, that is becuase doing that mod is supposed to keep the link more parallel and move the link out, while keeping it the same length. By all means try running it in one of the other two holes and see what happens though, I'm interested to see if it still works.
sweetpea; if you have a pro, worlds or special, every screw on the car is 2mm hex (I have yet to strip one in two years) with the exeption of the hinge pin set screws and the grub srews on the swaybar ends.
Speedo
sweetpea; if you have a pro, worlds or special, every screw on the car is 2mm hex (I have yet to strip one in two years) with the exeption of the hinge pin set screws and the grub srews on the swaybar ends.
Speedo
#1481
Tech Adept
Thanks Speedo.
That's pretty much what I figured for the rear hub mod.
I found out that the Speacial kit rear hubs are 1 deg, it's stamped on the hub.
I'll be trying the car out in stock class on slippery wooden flooring tomorrow night. I'll let you know how it works out in the upper/outer position and what difference there is by mounting the camber link one hole in. I'm not sure the turnbuckle will be long enough to mount the link in the upper/inner hole.
So what's the reasoning behind using a king pin ball stud on the front hubs? I may as well try that as well while I have my Dremel batteries charged.
Yorkie
That's pretty much what I figured for the rear hub mod.
I found out that the Speacial kit rear hubs are 1 deg, it's stamped on the hub.
I'll be trying the car out in stock class on slippery wooden flooring tomorrow night. I'll let you know how it works out in the upper/outer position and what difference there is by mounting the camber link one hole in. I'm not sure the turnbuckle will be long enough to mount the link in the upper/inner hole.
So what's the reasoning behind using a king pin ball stud on the front hubs? I may as well try that as well while I have my Dremel batteries charged.
Yorkie
#1482
Pretty much the same as the rear mod, parallel and moving the link out.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
Speedo
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
Speedo
#1483
R/C Tech Founder
I have two of the kingpin ball studs, I guess I may as well stick them on the front of my Special tonight.
We are having our annual title race this Friday-Saturday. I'm running Pro-Stock (Rubber) with my Yokomo Special and Modified (Foam) with my XXX-S. Right now my Special is *almost* the box-stock setup, with a few small tweaks, and it handles pretty well.
We are having our annual title race this Friday-Saturday. I'm running Pro-Stock (Rubber) with my Yokomo Special and Modified (Foam) with my XXX-S. Right now my Special is *almost* the box-stock setup, with a few small tweaks, and it handles pretty well.
#1484
R/C Tech Founder
Went back to my LHS today and found another package of the kingpin ballstuds, at half off even, so that was cool.
Question: somebody once said on here that the Aluminum TC3 battery strap would fit the Yokomo Special. Is this true? Anybody happen to have a part number for it? I'd really like to use that instead of the one the Special comes with, that thing is just unwieldy.
Question: somebody once said on here that the Aluminum TC3 battery strap would fit the Yokomo Special. Is this true? Anybody happen to have a part number for it? I'd really like to use that instead of the one the Special comes with, that thing is just unwieldy.
#1485
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
Shane- yes it will, but if I remember correctly you have to move the rear battery post over to the center position. Not sure on the part number- I dislike the AE aluminum battery strap...
BTW, it's easier to just use the yellow fiberglass strapping tape if you don't like the Special's battery strap...
BTW, it's easier to just use the yellow fiberglass strapping tape if you don't like the Special's battery strap...