Boomer

Hmmm, okay, you need rear droop - but if you pick up the motor pod it won't droop so you can't measure it the normal way - you'll have to pick up the rear of the chassis - but NOT using the T-Bar if you have one (cause that would just be picking up the rear pod). When you do that, the pod will droop (should it be pod-droop? LOL - dude, your pod is drooping. . . .)

So I guess I kinda confused myself. . .

You want your chassis to be just a tad lower than the pod (just a touch of 'sag') which will let it move upward when it needs to transfer weight forward off throttle. . .

NiMo

The main problem I am having with 1s 10.5 is the amperage draw, t is so great that it often melts the solder joints, even the solder inside the Graupner motor that held the winds in place, yet the actual motor temp is some 15ºC cooler than a 2s 17.5 set up.
Then their is the charging of the RX packs every run as they cannot cope with much more than 2 runs.
1s racing maybe ok at small indoor clubs, but a larger indoor and outdoor clubs it is too much of a headache, hence why so many have returned to TC's.

NiMo

when picking up the car at front and rear points their should be no sag.
I have it set so the chassis is level whewn picked up front and rear, and the rear end drooping about 2-3mm when holding just the chassis plate
(my track outdoors with bumps)

JIM1

Yep, less voltage will increase heat and reduce efficiency. As I mentioned before, more concentration on 2s pan cars is required. 1s also makes things to light IMO. Shame there isn't more following with the pans. I wonder what it would take to make people make the change?

JR007

So no front droop for bumpy outdoor then? I currently have about 1.5mm, but am struggling t oget it set up right. Should I remove the droop?

hectickurt

The problem of rx batteries not lasting may well be cured by removing the red wire from the speedo plug. This reduces the current drain on the pack significantly to around 25-35mah per run in my case. Dont cut the wire off just insulate it as you would need to refit it to carry out programme updates etc.

NiMo

removing the front droop takes away a lot of the front bite, and if you find the car too nervous and sensitive to the steering imput then this will help greatly

tudor_47

I've spent some time now trying to achive this with my chassie and NO sorry no can do! I feel stupid, I can not get it to be level when picked up rear and front AND get rear droop if picked up front and front chassie only...

I have now more or less zero droop and level chassie. so i'll try that and see what happens on the track.

EDIT=>
HAHA!

success! after shaking my head I went at it again and to my surprice i now have it, Yes both rear droop and a level chassies..... The spring was to much preloaded..

I do hope it does NOT rain tomorrow! <= END EDIT

My car is a X10 link so no I do not have a T-bar.

Thanks for helping!

NiMo

Getting them to forget the BRCA rules, and go the 2s 17.5 route.
It is only a lap faster than 1s 10.5 at Aldershot, but so much easier to maintain and run.

Going 1s Modified for 3 meetings ended up wrecking 7 GT cars and scaring away all the F1 racers, effectively killing the class.
I even got mine to wheelie running an 8t GM Delta, didn't do too well in its arguement with the fencing, and the number of back flips on the straight with it, had to add weight to keep it on the track, so now have a 1s car at 1045g just so it can be driven.

2s 17.5 is the only way GT racing is going to survive in the UK.

NiMo

If you have trouble getting rear droop, just unwind the shock ball cup a few turns

tudor_47

moved Q to X10 thread...

JR007

That's exactly what i'm after. Between removing the front droop, and getting my tires and ride height down to the right size, I should be away laughing.

Thanks

JIM1

How about 3s 20.5 for 2011! Just to really throw a spanner in the works.

JR007

Well, i'm hoping the 200mm Pan will take off at our club (and country for that matter), but need to have options if it doesn't. Looking at the Gen-XL manual, it looks as though there are a LOT of shared parts.
If I was to convert the GenX-10, I figure i'll need the chassis, tweak plates, axle hubs, damper tubes, and maybe a small few pieces of hardware. Is that correct? If so, it's about $100 for effectively a new car.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

there is a huge number of new parts needed. by the time you buy them all you have bought a new GEN X 10 at Stormerhobbies.com

"There is no kit to convert a 1/12 to 1/10 Gen X 10. These are the parts you need. Gen X 10 axle, left hub, right hub, X brace, Top plate, Bottom plage, Gen X 10 chassis, new minimized left side hub if you are not equipped with that, longer 1/10 kingpins. Longer 1/10 steering arms, Battery Top plate, Battery side mounts, metal 4-40 inserts for side mounts, four hex standoffs long and mounting screws. battery tray set, new center pivot molded Plastics, longer front and rear body posts, front bumper, Servo mount plate and screws, Rear Hourglass standoffs (4), Rear Side Plates, Long side damper set. I think that covers it. I have all the http://www.stranahan-rc.com/Catalog_c362901.html.

however it is probably cheaper to buy a new kit at Stormer. Heck of a good price there."