JR007

Thanks for the help guys. John, believe it or not, I was actually nowhere near the throttle! I know I have a heavy hand, especially as my TC is my other race car. There was only one other car with me, so we were using it as a practice run, and I conciously made sure I wasn't on-throttle (finger right off the trigger). I tell you what though, it's damned hard no to want to rip it open, especially when you can blitz TC's on the back straight!
I obviously need to get my hands on a truer. I'll find a club member who can lend me one.
I might also look at caster. I have the 5º block and 2 shims back at the moment. What does that give me?

NiMo

5º block and 2 shims back is how I run, but it will not work with a Mulsanne.
With Mulsanne I have to run steering at 95% lock and full additive, but with Corvette I only need to run 68% lock and inner third with additive.

tudor_47

I have been reading this thread from start to end now, and here on the last page there is a new discussion of the exact same problem i have with my car (X10link with protoform Corvette body, 5,5T)
I tend to, same as jr007, spin out after corner...

Mine also has a large difference between the rear (higher) and front of the car.
I have since reading this thread moved all electronics as far back as possible, even manufacturing a mounting shelf for the mamba max Pro ESC to sit above the rear link on the left side of the car. I have not yet tested this to see if it helped out(it is raining outside). I am going to rise the frontend of the ground tonight as per 'Pro ten holland' advice....

But Nimo... are you saying that the corvette has more front grip? and that you are running 30% less steering on that body?

I am wondering as we are two here running the same chassie, x10 link, and we both have wgt spec tires I am running BSR(lilac stripe) and my friend jaco(lilac stripe) but his car is more stable at corner exits.... He is running the mulsanne body.

we tried to loan eachothers wheels and that made my car better but not good. this was before moving the electronics way back in chassies.
Interesting enough, my friend spun more with my tires on... (it was not only my driving)

Am I on the correct path to a good car here?
Thanks
/Johnny
PS
We run on untreated asphalt and we are not using tire additives, we are not allowed to at our track.

NiMo

No additive? damn you are gonna have problems.

Mulsanne has too much rear grip, Corvette feels more balanced, but if you are on untreated surfaces then you are never going to find a happy balance.
I can only suggest very soft rear foams, like Corally Silver Stars, but they can chunk easy and wear out fast.

Try removing all front droop, I run with no droop as it gives too much front bite on our high traction purpose built outdoor track.

and is that a 5.5BL motor you run?
way too much power for a low grip surface

JR007

Peas in a pod. I'm running the Mulsanne, on asphalt, and no additive allowed. Maybe I need a new body, but I can't imagine how the shape is going to matter at the jogging pace i'm hooking at. Mind you, i've been wrong before

tudor_47

Thanks!
I'll take your advice into consideration... along with all the others of this thread.
I have a set of purple front and pink rears coming in, hoping they will do the trick...

I do not have any droop on my front end, I am not sure it is possible to get that other than by removing shims from the front end so that there is a gap along the kingpin.. There is no word of front droop in the manual.

I have now tried to adjust a very tiny amount of droop inthe rear, aming for 1mm..

I have raised the front end so that i am now at (i think) 6mm ride height, this is up 1,5mm from previous.
In the rear i was at 10,5 in ride height... I am now at 8,5mm ruffly I measured with a caliper ... but it is there about, I will check when i get hold of a rideheight tool.

motor, 5,5T yes that is brushless... Is that too much? well I guess if you gear it all it can take.. I am now running a 18/102 or was it 104? well... So I think I have long ways left before the true nature of the 5,5T is revealed?
As it is now I can easily drive for 10 and more minutes without changing battery.
Now lets hope it is not raining monday evening!


thanks!

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Introducing Scimitar


This is the latest oval car from SRC. It is most suitable for high speed velodrome or outdoor asphalt. Improvements over the previous JS Pro 200 Oval car:

• Completely new rear pod: Including Scimitar blade top plate. Also included are much heavier mounting points for the Panhard bar; RC10-L3T style pod side plates allow for the heavy duty top plate; The side plates are made by CRC. Pod graphite is crafted by PRC. This style of pod has proven to be chatter and axle tramp free in my extensive 3-link suspension tests lasting well over a year.
• New front top plate is through bolted now, and has a third support post centered behind an available third front body post mount. Front suspension settings will be more secure in the crashes.
• New Lower Price $399.00.

Additionally Some JS Pro 200 Oval car benefits that are retained:

• 3-link rear suspension with two vertical shocks for better cornering traction and performance on bumps
• Dual Dynamic A-arms-(both move), fully dampened front suspension
• CRC Battle Axe chassis
• Adjustable Roll center in front is completely independent of camber adjustment unlike a sliding kingpin suspension
• Familiar adjustments to camber and caster in the front.
• A shorty graphite bumper is supplied and combined with a CRC stiff foam bumper. Crash worthiness is much increased with the ¾ inch crush space for the foam. Flat under car aerodynamics and solid front body posts mounts are retained.
• Adjustable rear steer in any increment.
• Adjustable rear offset
• Rugged settings from very rugged rod ends
• Motor drops in with no dissasembly

New Scimitar Pro 10 coming soon.

Boomer

When you look at your chassis and pod (as a line), it should "sag" and never "arch" - i.e. you do not want forward rake as it is the cause of the off-throttle steer.

What seems to happen is that, off throttle weight shifts forward. If you're "arching" you're already at that limit (just like roll or side-to-side droop, for lack of a better term) so there's nothing to absorb the weight transfer and you'll tend to spin (you might be able to control it, but it ends up being VERY touchy, just like roll droop).

Get that "sag" back and your car will absorb the weight transfer nicely and you won't be so prone to off-throttle oversteer.

JIM1

I used to have the spinning out problem on corner exit with my 235mm genx. I took pro10holland's advice and levelled the ride heights and the car was much better even running a 4.5 2s in medium grip.
I since have changed to John's JS Pro10 and do not have this problem at all. I had to softern the rear a little to deal with our bumps but all is good. I can even run additive across the whole of the front tyre and in high traction it is just awsome. I found the corally pinks to be much better than the jacos. They come with more beef and do not chunk like the jacos. I am running 7.5mm front, 8.5mm at the rear of the main chassis and 8 mm at the rear pod.
Can't wait to test my new 3.5!

tudor_47

Are you saying I should not have any rear droop?
to get an saging chassie i have to let the main chassie sit lower than motor pod?
Or should the motor pod and chassie be at same level and the front end a little higher?

a small picture/sketch?

I am new at pan car in this scale....
Thanks!

TyoBBS

I have Mulsanne... I want to try Corvette
Is this?

Protoform Corvette C6-R Pan Car Body (200mm)

Thanks and regards,

tudor_47

Yes that is the one, here is one place they are available.

Mine came with window masks and a few stickers for lights

JIM1

Such a dumb ass idea to go to 1s so soon anyway. The class wasn't established enough in 2s. It seems as if the BRCA is treating the class like the 12th scales. I'll continue to bash with my Pro10. I'll never convert to a geeky TC. It's time they died out anyway.

TyoBBS

OK


THANKS and regards,

NiMo

Yes that is the Corvette to use