manfromclio

iTrader: (2)

Thought I would chime in on the ball diff issue. For those that are having issues with broken bolts, try installing the diff in the opposite direction as instructed. Associated diffs adjust from the same side as the slipper for a reason. It will not over tighten as you drive. I installed it this way from the build and have not had a single issue with stock parts. I found it strange that the instructions say to install it with adjustment on the left side.

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

I was the same way a while back, when i first put caspers set up on my XXX-SCT.
thats an interesting thought, but I cannot imagine the diff screw backing out, considering it is under tension from the diff spring. and i would think its better to have the diff tighten a bit then have it loosen and bark.
we put the diff screw on the left for the simplicity of adjusting it (with the diff tool, its pretty easy). I need to look at my truck, but i dont think there is enough room to fit the diff tool in between the spur gear cover and the rear shock tower.

robcamj

iTrader: (48)

Anyone having trouble with the steering binding up?

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

elaborate a little more. where is it binding?
check if the servo horn is scraping the rack.

robcamj

iTrader: (48)

I figured it out. Well I should say a fellow racer helped. Apparently the aluminum steering rack has a tendency to bind up after a while. Back to the plastic for me.

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

I have heard a few times in this thread about the aluminum rack binding up.
that reminds me, I need to replace my rack before next sunday! starting to get a little loose

robcamj

iTrader: (48)

I have a nice aluminum one I will sell you. Haha.

Losi57

yes stick with the plastic and use graphite powder to lube it.

tbills66

How do you stop the rear end from "bucking" up when going through a section with discs off set? Would you run larger hole pistons or go with different springs? This is on carpet and I'm pretty sure it is the Frank Root setup.

travymoto11

iTrader: (19)

Has anyone measure the weight differance between the Titanium turnbuckle kit and the standard? I read here or on the 22 forum that the Ti screw kit saves 1.5 oz?

LBR_Frank

iTrader: (9)

I weighed the stock aluminum against the lundsford set and it was a 50% savings. same on the ball studs. mind you it's 50% of very little

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Hello gentlemen,

I just acquired a 22sct roller, which I should have this coming week. It'll be my first SCT, so I'm trying to get a grasp on the basics. I'm currently trying to understand which bodies will fit the truck. ProLine lists the "Flo-Tek Chevy Silverado" as fitting, is that a good choice? I'd like to reduce the parachute effect as much as I can, but also have a body that will take the abuse of a novice driver.

I'd appreciate any recommendations, thanks!

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

by 'bucking up' do you mean the rear is over rebounding off a jump?
is the truck grounding out? if it is, go thicker on shock fluid, or to the next step smaller piston.
Caspers set up may work better on carpet hen root's. but I dont know, ive never run on carpet, except my living room.

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

i was not aware of any Proline bodies that fit this truck. just the TLR hiflow, the JConcepts hiflow and the JConcepts Chevy hiflow were bodies i knew for sure that fit.
but I checked ProLines website, and you're right, its saying that the tundra, silverado 1500, and militia bodies fit this truck. interesting.

the proline bodies are thicker them the JC, and my year old Flo Tek body for my XXX-SCT has no a single crack (after some hard crashes too) and my tlr hiflow is held together with aluminum tape and shoegoo.
for stock racing, you really need the light weight body. for modified, you'd be fine with the proline, but the JC and tlr bodies are lighter. the proline bodies will do you best if you are a novice or for bashing.

Derek_Wood

The problems I had with the stock diff parts were:

1. The rings weren't sanded. At least, it didn't look like it. If they were, they weren't always perfectly smooth.

2. The thrust bearing washers wore out really fast and often disintegrated after a month.

3. The stock diff balls were not the best either and could be flat spotted easily.

You can fix these things pretty easily:

1. Sand your rings with 180 grit paper and then finish with 400 grit paper in a figure 8 pattern. Make sure the entire ring is sanded before you stop. Putting the ring on a used female out drive makes this easier.

2. Use the Associated thrust washers and thrust balls.

3. Use the TLR tungsten carbide diff balls.

As an alternative to that, you can buy the b-fast 22 kit. The b-fast rings come pre-sanded, and their thrust washers and balls are of high quality.

I've built diffs with steps 1-3 and with the b-fast kit. Both will work well, and when done correctly, they should last you a long time.