supra528

ok.. i need to know this by 9 oclock tonight... wat is ca glue... what do u guys use for it?? i really need to know... is it epoxy? contact cement?? thnx in advance

supra528

and everyones telling me its crazy glue... is it??

supra528

srry bout that.. correction.. super glue... thats what the hobby store said and i have some that i use to glue rubber tires onto the wheels... so should that be fine??

modellor

CA - Cyanoacrylate Glue is the strongest form of superglue. The best version of this has to be Zap-A-Gap. You should be able to get it in your LHS.

We use this stuff to build RC Aircraft and it is really strong. But be careful. The thinner stuff dries when the 2 surfaces contact and once this happens you cant split them.

supra528

so basically its the stuff that u glue the tires to the wheels with.. right? and thanks a lot for the info

superk

iTrader: (8)

Ok...so Finally got the car out and braking in my X.12 motor!! get to drive it for a bit...and wow!!!! the car was quick!! even I run it rich! got though with 8 tanks of braking in ....but..still need more to go though it braking in I think...

Those internal gear change really help on the lowend. I know my impulse is not as quick as 705.

I'm going to take the car apart and go thought my parts/pullies/belts make sure..it all install collectly and in good condition..then I'm going to setup/tweek it. Going to take it out to a local race tack and make a 1st 705 a can of wipp *** because....most of them talk crap about Serpent....." better run shaftdrive car."

any ways...will let you all know what's going on....can't wait to get it on the track.

supra528

ok...welli finally started building my car (and i start work monday(lots of money))... anyways...everything is soooooooo tight...lol... i just have a question...how the hell did u guys get the ball cup onto the shocks?? i skipped that shocks cuz im totally stumped on that...n so right now im just completing the sencond part aftern the front one way...

supra528

as well.. the front belt is tight... should it be?? i can move it with my fingers but it will not roll on freely... should this happen?? i dont want to movie on until i know this... thnx... and if you could answer my question about the shocks??.. thnx

modellor

Supra - For the shocks, take a piece of paper and fold it over the smooth part of the piston. Now grasp the piston with a pair of pliers (make sure the rod sits between the teeth of the pliers) and screw the plastic cup end on.

As for the belt. It will be tight. After a few runs it will free up enough to allow a nice roll. The same for the suspension. The wishbones and balljoints will all feel really tight.

To cure this you can use a couple of different methods.

1. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the wishbones at the hinge pins while also moving the wishbone up and down. I dont like this method as too much heat will distort the shape of the wishbones and put the car way out of balance.

2. My prefered method is to go to a large open carpark and drive the car around hard in a figure 8 for a few tanks. This will free the whole suspenion up. But before diong this with a new engine be sure to break-in the engine properly.

Accord

Haha, yeah I did the same thing... I just built the shocks last. The one thing I hate more than anything in R/C in building shocks. It's a real pain in the ass to get the ball joint thing onto the piston, what I did was took a wrench and squeezed as hard as I could to hold the piston in place. The manual says not to do this because you'll scratch or dent the piston rod, but I saw no other way to do it and no damage was done and my shocks function perfectly.

Also, the ball cup things that go onto the ends of the piston rods are not pre-threaded, which makes it next to impossible to get it on without slipping. Get one of the spare screws that came with the kit and just put the screw into the ball end to pre-thread it before putting it onto the piston rod, it makes things a LOT easier! I think the piston rod threads are M3 or M5, so just get a screw that is the same as the piston rod.

supra528

ok.. thnx sooooo much.... i cant wait to get back from walking my dog and continue.. TRACY GOT POLE!!! IM SO HAPPY!!! hyaha...lol... srry..lol

modellor

Pre-threading the ball cup is not really a good idea. A lot of people do it and I have done it too myself. But the main thing to aim for is to make a thread in the ball cup using the piston so that you get a real tight fit. This stops the ball cup from unwinding or tightening up and changing the length of the shocks during runs which has a real bad effect on the set up of the car.

Accord

I haven't noticed any changes in length at all, even after very hard runs with a lot of crashes (something I do often ). Also, I own an Xray T1 Evo2 and in the manual there is a side note and the manufacturer actually recommends you pre-thread the ball cup with a screw. If you're really that worried about the length changing or it coming loose or something, then I suggest you just wrap the threads of the piston with a little bit of teflon tape before threading it into the already prethreaded ball cup, that will hold it perfectly and won't damage the plastic like loctite.

supra528

ok thanks alot.. i have another question that doesnt really apply to me now cuz i dont have my engine but my condo is at 2750ft. ASL.... and my track down in vancouver is at sea level.. what should i do for this?

sparksy

iTrader: (14)

I had this problem when building my 835.

I think the way serpent molds their plastics leaves much to be desired... thay throw it out of the mold too quick and the plastic cools and sets wrong (slightly warped).

What can you do to correct it? Well, what worked real nice for me was half building the suspension... ie. arms, bulkheads and hinge pins... then boiling them in a pot for 5 min, to get them nice and hot...then remove pot from the heat, and let cool. The heat puts the plastic back into the just molded temp range.. and allowing them to cool in the water ensures an even distribution of temp loss... and they dont warp.

I also then run a 3mm reamer down the holes the hinge pin goes in.....

Result...... smooth correct suspension opperation.