chachi

InitialD: Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

serpentracer1

Spent the last 2 days comparing parts from impact and impulse to the new 705.Thiers only a few parts that are different so I have plenty of spares (2impacts and 2 impulses plus a box full of new parts ) So I'll be picking one up in the next couple weeks bought a house gotta move first.Then I can pull out my stuff and play again,but looking forword to it.Whats a good motor for the car RB or Nova Mega.I'd put my sx15evo4ms 7 port in it but dont think it would be legal. LOL Damn motor is a beast tho!any suggestions would be helpful.Thanks

InitialD

serpentracer1, no problem. It's just that if you ask tell us you run Mugens and got a lot of Mugen spares, we would give you the honest opinion and say go with the Mugen because that's the right answer. Both cars are equal. I think anybody here would give you the same advise unlike some other place where they give opinions because they are biased Anyway, welcome It's good to have people with bigger car experience in the fold

serpentracer1

yea I already have ideas running thru my head Ive measured different things on the cars and going to try some things when I get the 705.Whats funny is I got the impulse when they first came out and I put a winged type200mm body from protoform on the car(had to do some cutting) and it was dialed and I see now that they make the lola and the 962 for the car thats awesome,wont have to cut as much now but im looking forword to running TC again gotta wait a couple weeks bought new house and moving than I'll be ready to play.I'll be keeping tabs on the thread

Neil Rabara

Has anyone tried using Xray shocks on the 705?

modellor

Very true. I can agree with everything said. I run both a Serpent 705 and a Yokomo GT4 and will always give an unbiased opinion based on facts. I have built nearly every make of car and they all have there positive and negatives. If someone asks I will tell them straight what problems I noticed on any car.

However, all the problems that any of the cars have are easily remedied if you have access to the correct tools or parts required. I have only had the 705 for a short time but already it is proving to be a solid car and really good out of the box. I design and produce aftermarket parts for several cars and so far I am having a really tough time finding parts of the 705 that I can make better. So far I have only been able to work on a 4mm chassis (which I do for all the other cars I design parts for) and a set of rear rollcenter spacers (different sizes) as Serpent as of yet dont offer these for sale. Any other parts I am working on are purely cosmetic or just change screw locations to make things easier adjusted (front anti-roll bar mounts changed to alloy versions to allow screws to be loosened from below for easier access).

Arun

Xray shocks are basically the same, they just are the same length all around. The 705 needs the long shocks in the back.

InitialD

The old XRay T1 shocks work fine. I believe they are the same except that they use clear rubber shock membrane instead of black colour.

The newer XRay T1 EVO 2 and T1 Raycer however uses different shocks. The shocks are the same length all over unlike the older XRay T1.

taz5176

hi guys
can someone tell me how they got the ratio for different tyre size?
http://www.mytsn.com/products/downlds.asp?prid=2471

thx

modellor

If you PM me your email I will send you a chart that shows the whole process broke down into steps.

InitialD

I seriously don't know how the formulas mentioned on the sheet are derived. I think they are somehow flawed.

This is what I use to get the figures below;

2 - (Front Side Pulley / Rear Side Pulley) x (Front Diff Pulley / Front Mid Pulley) x (Brake Pulley / Rear Diff Pulley) x (Rear Tire Diameter / Front Tire Diameter)

Using the same variations on the sheet, I get slightly different figures from the formula above;

Variation 1 (46T diff pulley, 23T brake pulley, 19T rear side pulley, 23T front side pulley)

Using 58 mm front tires up to 64 mm with 0.5 mm differences and with a constant split of 2 mm from the rear tires (front tire 2 mm smaller), I get these figures 1.061, 1.061, 1.061, 1.062, 1.062, 1.062, 1.062, 1.063, 1.063, 1.063, 1.063, 1.064 and 1.064. Mentioned on the sheet is 1.05.

Using 58 mm front tires up to 63 mm with 0.5 mm differences and with a constant split of 3 mm from the rear tires (front tire 3 mm smaller), I get these figures 1.045, 1.046, 1.046, 1.046, 1.047, 1.047, 1.047, 1.048, 1.048, 1.049 and 1.049. Mentioned on the sheet is 1.03.

Using 58 mm front tires up to 62 mm with 0.5 mm differences and with a constant split of 4 mm from the rear tires (front tire 4 mm smaller), I get these figures 1.029, 1.030, 1.031, 1.031, 1.032, 1.032, 1.033, 1.033 and 1.034. Mentioned on the sheet is 1.02.

Using similar tire diameters front and rear with the set of pulleys mentioned above yielded an overdrive of 1.092. I guess it's pretty much the same as 1.09 mentioned in the sheet.

Variation 2 (47T diff pulley, 22T brake pulley, 18T rear side pulley, 24T front side pulley)

Using 58 mm front tires up to 64 mm with 0.5 mm differences and with a constant split of 2 mm from the rear tires (front tire 2 mm smaller), I get these figures 1.032, 1.032, 1.032, 1.032, 1.033, 1.033, 1.033, 1.033, 1.034, 1.034, 1.034, 1.034 and 1.035. Mentioned on the sheet is 0.995 !!

Using 58 mm front tires up to 62 mm with 0.5 mm differences and with a constant split of 3 mm from the rear tires (front tire 3 mm smaller), I get these figures 1.015, 1.016, 1.016, 1.017, 1.017, 1.017, 1.018, 1.018, 1.019, 1.019 and 1.019. Mentioned on the sheet is 0.978 !!

Using similar tire diameters front and rear with the set of pulleys mentioned above yielded an overdrive of 1.064 which is different from the 1.03 mentioned in the sheet

Variation 3 (47T diff pulley, 22T brake pulley, 19T rear side pulley, 23T front side pulley)

Using 58 mm front tires up to 64 mm with 0.5 mm differences and with a constant split of 2 mm from the rear tires (front tire 2 mm smaller), I get these figures 1.121, 1.121, 1.121, 1.121, 1.122, 1.122, 1.122, 1.122, 1.123, 1.123, 1.123, 1.123 and 1.123. Mentioned on the sheet is 1.09

Using 58 mm front tires up to 63 mm with 0.5 mm differences and with a constant split of 3 mm from the rear tires (front tire 3 mm smaller), I get these figures 1.106, 1.106, 1.107, 1.107, 1.108, 1.108, 1.108, 1.109, 1.109, 1.109 and 1.110. Mentioned on the sheet is 1.07

Using 58 mm front tires up to 62 mm with 0.5 mm differences and with a constant split of 4 mm from the rear tires (front tire 4 mm smaller), I get these figures 1.091, 1.092, 1.092, 1.093, 1.093, 1.094, 1.094, 1.095 and 1.095. Mentioned on the sheet is 1.06

Using similar tire diameters front and rear with the set of pulleys mentioned above yielded an overdrive of 1.150 which is about the same as the 1.13 mentioned in the sheet.

And the best part is, the stock internal pulleys mentioned in the sheet yielded an underdrive of 0.99 Should be 1. Dizzy already

modellor

That example is correct. He has just changed the formula to leave out all the other parts. Made it more simple.

Walt Bailey has been the Serpent UK Team leader for more years than I know. He does all his own modifications to the UK engines (works on Mark Greens car who placed 4rth at the World Cup) and is the mastermind behind the Pink Power fuel.

He is about the best engine tuner and car tuner in the UK

InitialD

Yeah I know. But how do you explain the underdrive anomaly with the stock pulleys using the formula? No doubt its 0.99 but if you calculate manually the stock front and rear internal drive ratios, you will find that they are exactly the same to the dot (i.e. 2). If the front and rear internal drive ratios are the same and coupled with the same front and rear tire diameters, then the overdrive value should be 1. Not 0.99.

The overdrive and underdrive is derived from the ratio of the front and rear tire rollout. How can the formula be saying that the stock pulleys result in the car being underdriven then?

superk

iTrader: (8)

Boy...!! those number make me dezzy!! I'm not even sure what it all mean really!!!!

I just do what InitialD told me to change all those rear pullies, spergear and pinion. Not sure how it works..all I want is to go faster in the small track. I need to take off faster and go faster in the 2nd gear in a 120' straitaway.

I setup my friend mugen MTX2 the other day...and the car was fast! I tend to use my serpent setup for the Mugen...and seem to work well!! The car was really fast comming out of the cornor and seem to plant on the track nicely.

Any how...I hear that the NEW MTX3 have a better drive ratio than the serpent?? is that true??

My 705 is almost finish...only a few more things to do.... I still have to drive arould abit b4 the race...since every thing is so nicely tight!!!! Going to race it this Sunday at my local track!! the only 705 out there!! and there is only 2 Impulse r running!! the rest run NTC3 and some other cars. Hope to kick some butts this Sunday with the 705~! wish me luck.

InitialD

Better in which sense? The MTX-3's gearing is very good on smaller tracks. On high speed tracks, the 705 will be better. That is base on stock gearing and internal pulleys out of the box.

Changing to the 47T diff pulley, 22T brake pulley and 17T rear side pulley will make your 1st gear final ratio to 7.12 using a 15T and a 50T spur. Not as good as Mugen's 7.58. The Mugen has an option to go as high as 8.08 with a 15T / 48T gearing combo. That's with the 1.0 pitch gears. The new set of 0.8 pitch gears, you will be able to get 7.58 as the highest ratio (20T/60T).

The overdrive numbers are easy. Positive numbers mean front driving the rear (overdrive). Negative numbers mean rear driving ther front (underdrive).